Hi all, in need of serious help!

I am trying to take the wheel bearing out of my 92 tracker but the spindle nut (ring that threads onto the spindle) WILL NOT BREAK LOOSE! I started by spreading some needle nose pliers hole to hole and turning; snapped them in two. I used a hammer and punch and beat the crap out of it, nothing. I have fabricated my own tools with welder and broke them all.. Used the actual heavy duty spindle nut tool and snapped the pegs off that.. I heated the ring to red hot on a couple attempts as well..
I'm at a loss.. What are my other options here?

Thanks for any responses..

Man, this must be the week of the Stuck Trackick parts!  You say you broke the pegs off the special tool also? Is it repairable? If it can be used you may want to try a BIG impact gun, the first time I did mine that's the only way it would come loose. If you cant get hold of a impact gun, take the whole knuckle off and take it to a reputable repair shop and let them use their impact to try and get it loose. Soak it in penatrating oil too. Good luck, sounds like it's seized pretty good.

Yup busted them all off.. The only way I think it's repairable is to weld them back on or something else, but I think it will only be weaker than it was.. I think I have to follow your advice to take off the steering knuckle

I used a 3ft breaker bar with 160lb man standing  on it with a tool i had made. Grand Vitara has 168lb torque. Need some good  steel to make these tools.
 Drill holes in your socket insert harden pins

Did you remove the locking screws from the ring?

Takes an Impact Driver, and there are 4 of them

Wild

Did you remove the locking screws from the ring?

Takes an Impact Driver, and there are 4 of them

Wild

There is the outer ring with the Philips head screws.. I took those out then that top ring slides out (it's keyed on the spindle) from there I use the tool on the actual ring/nut that threads onto the spindle. That's what you mean right? There isn't screws on the actual spindle ring/nut?

Oh I feel sick!!! Someone tell me I'm wrong here..
I ended up taking the hub off via the 4 bolts behind the shroud that protects the rotor. I took it to the closest place to my house that I thought might be able to help, Big O Tire. Told the guy at the counter my story and asked if they could get it off. He shrugged a bit and took it out back and said they'd give it a try. After putting it in a vice and hitting it with a torch for 5 minutes they hammered and chiseled away at it. I ended up walking in one of the bay doors to watch.. They guy said he'd never seen one this bad. Finally after a few minutes it started to move; finally!
So I headed back into the front to see what I owed. Here's where my sick feeling comes in. I honestly thought he'd say, "don't worry about it, out pleasure!" BUT I'm not totally greedy so I was thinking he'd say, "gives us ten bucks and we're square" but then he starts talking out loud, "15 minutes shop time, shop parts, how about 30 bucks?"
Are you serious?? I said do you know how much I can get this whole part from the wrecker for? He said sarcastically, $30?? As if to say, not this cheap beatch! I said no but $60.. If I knew it would be this much I would have gone the other route. He shrugged again and starting inputting my bill.
In the end I'm probably still going to get the part through craigslist because the bearing is still in there.. I'm so pissed about this. Tell me I'm being a douche bag and maybe I'll feel better, but I still think I got burned.

I don't think $30 bucks is so bad, they got it off. Is it the roller bearing thats still in there or the race? The bearings are two pieces , front and rear, but the race is one piece and needs to be pressed in and out. You'll have to remove the rear seal to get to the rear bearing and there's a circlip holding it too.

Ok just went to the wrecker and got an assembly.. It was off of one with auto locking hubs, anyone know if theres much difference? I notice the ring nut (that gave me such a problem) is different, can I just put my manual locking hub on this and go, or do I have to pull this spindle nut off and put mine on?

Drill holes in your socket insert harden pins

The socket I have has holes with hardened pins.  It is a kent-moore socket.

Is it the roller bearing thats still in there or the race? The bearings are two pieces , front and rear, but the race is one piece and needs to be pressed in and out. You'll have to remove the rear seal to get to the rear bearing and there's a circlip holding it too.

Yep.  You won't be able to see the big snap ring until you remove the inner seal.  The outer seal doesn't have to come off, to remove the snap ring, the bearing, or the race assembly.

Ok just went to the wrecker and got an assembly.. It was off of one with auto locking hubs, anyone know if theres much difference? I notice the ring nut (that gave me such a problem) is different, can I just put my manual locking hub on this and go, or do I have to pull this spindle nut off and put mine on?

The auto locking knuckle/wheel hub assembly is the same.  Even 2wd assemblys are the same, with the only difference being the spindle (the spindle hole isn't big enough on a 2wd for the front axle shaft to pass though).
What year was the one that you pulled the new assembly off of?  The later ones use a different type of nut that takes a different socket.
Yes, you should be able to bolt your manual hub on the new assembly and be good to go.  I guess you got the whole knuckle assembly, or did you just get a wheel hub and spindle assembly?

I think the new one came off of a 98. I took it off but I didn't pay too much attention after I saw that it looked the same, I think it was a 98 sunrunner or sidekick and mines a 92 tracker.

I got the whole thing after the steering knuckle, so remove the caliper and bracket, rotor then undo the 4 bolts on the rotor guard (which is attached to the knuckle).. Then I took the 6 Allen key bolts out, the C clamp (snap ring) that holds the half shaft in place then it popped off, so I guess that would be the entire hub.

I left the top part of the hub there because it's auto and no good to me and stuck my manual on it.

I guess my concern is that the auto portion of the hub seemed to have a piece that rests against the spindle ring/nut so it won't turn off and the manual one has the keyed ring that has 4 small screws that hold it in place, so whats stopping it from turning off and me losing my wheel?

I think the new one came off of a 98. I took it off but I didn't pay too much attention after I saw that it looked the same, I think it was a 98 sunrunner or sidekick and mines a 92 tracker.

I got the whole thing after the steering knuckle, so remove the caliper and bracket, rotor then undo the 4 bolts on the rotor guard (which is attached to the knuckle).. Then I took the 6 Allen key bolts out, the C clamp that holds the half shaft in place then it popped off, so I guess that would be the entire hub.

I left the top part of the hub there because it's auto and no good to me and stuck my manual on it.

I guess my concern is that the auto portion of the hub seemed to have a piece that rests against the spindle ring/nut so it won't turn off and the manual one has the keyed ring that has 4 small screws that hold it in place, so whats stopping it from turning off and me losing my wheel?

Yeah, a 98 will definitely have the different type of spindle nut than your 92.  Like I said, it just takes a different socket to remove, if you ever need to.

Ok, so you got the whole wheel hub and spindle assembly, minus the auto hub.

That style has what they call an anti-rotation spring that tightens against the spindle nut.  To remove it, you have to use that special socket (not the type you have) and actually turn the anti-rotation spring 2 turns to disengage it from the spindle nut.  So since I am guessing you didn't have a way to remove the anti-rotation spring, then it is still on there and is holding the spindle nut firmly in place.

The auto hubs have a ring on them that engage the spindle nut lock ring.  And depending on which type of spindle nut you have, determines which type of auto hubs work on it.  If you had auto hubs from an earlier type of trackick, like yours, they would have a ring that looks similar to the lock ring with all the holes in it like on your old wheel hub.  So, in short, you have nothing to worry about.  What you were seeing was part of the auto hub and has nothing to do with holding the spindle nut in place.

Hmmm is that spring between the auto cap and the spindle nut? Or is it inside behind the nut? Now I'm actually worried I left a part there I shouldn't have..

Hmmm is that spring between the auto cap and the spindle nut? Or is it inside behind the nut? Now I'm actually worried I left a part there I shouldn't have..

You would have had to either have a socket to remove it, or used a punch or something to remove it.  If you just unbolted the auto hub and pulled the hub off, the spring didn't come off with it.

Call me paranoid but I'm in my garage right now.. Gonna take it off and show you a pic..