pic dont work.....

Right click on the pick and copy the link into your brouser, when you come back the pic will be tere

....

As for tweekin... yeah there are a few things I want to fix, 1) solid tranny mount, the softy one is shot. 2) better rear shock mounts, I break shocks off. 3) better front driveshaft, slip yolk and toy shaft.  few other things I want to do, but she is coming along good.

All good ideas and you're not alone.

1) That was one of the first things we did too.
Refab up the tranny crossmember/mount.  (had to do it since we went double t-case.)

(this was with hybrid samy/kick front end)


2) We ended up in-boarding our rear shocks, because like you, we kept ripping off the shock mounts.  (this has worked pretty well for us since we got the shocks installed the right way up).



3) Sounds like the same boat were in.  We want to get a high clearance double cardon joint in there to help with the harmonics of the wierd angle.

I'm loving the fact that somebody else found a way to get their Sidekick in the air.

Overall would you say that you can go more places than you did before?

Also, how did you address the slip yoke issue?

FYI

If you find that your front springs act as 'fangs' too much for your liking and are concerned by how far forward the eye sits.  I believe that some Toyota leaf springs are 2 inches wide and have the center hole offset to one end by like 4-5 inches.

Meaning that they are like 19 to the front and like 27 to the rear instead of centered.  This type of setup would allow you to have less spring hanging out the front and get your shackles tucked in closer.  You'd have to remount your rear spring hanger of course, but it does address the old 'leaf spring too far forward issue'.  

All good ideas and you're not alone.



2) We ended up in-boarding our rear shocks, because like you, we kept ripping off the shock mounts.  (this has worked pretty well for us since we got the shocks installed the right way up).



3) Sounds like the same boat were in.  We want to get a high clearance double cardon joint in there to help with the harmonics of the wierd angle.

I'm loving the fact that somebody else found a way to get their Sidekick in the air.

Overall would you say that you can go more places than you did before?

Also, how did you address the slip yoke issue?

1) where was the top mounting point for your rear shocks? did you make a x-member for it?

2) like the t-case x-member, did you use only hard mounts, no rubber?

Im still using the slip yolks, and they havent came apart yet..... I did grind out the front one to allow more travel but it got thin on the yolk side and some gear oil leaks through it from the t-case.  It really flexs great, altho I still want more, and it climbs good too, I got a video of it going up that rock face that I posted a pic of and it does climb well.

Right click on the pick and copy the link into your brouser, when you come back the pic will be tere

still cant get the pic to work....  

pic dont work.....

I think I fixed it. Does it work now?

I think I fixed it. Does it work now?

works now... nice rig.... see if you can get it down to paragon for that weekend so we can do some wheelin.

1) where was the top mounting point for your rear shocks? did you make a x-member for it?

2) like the t-case x-member, did you use only hard mounts, no rubber?

Im still using the slip yolks, and they havent came apart yet..... I did grind out the front one to allow more travel but it got thin on the yolk side and some gear oil leaks through it from the t-case.  It really flexs great, altho I still want more, and it climbs good too, I got a video of it going up that rock face that I posted a pic of and it does climb well.

The top mount for the shocks was on the existing cross member.  On the four doors there is a cross member right above the axle where a fuel filter rests, and the gas tank 'stand off's are located.
I just welded in some angle iron and welded shock mounts to those.  



There are soft mounts on the t-case and tranny.  I actually used the stock tranny mount/bushing right on the front cross member, centered to hold the weight of everything.

I made a cage for the t-case, like the might kong buckets you can find for sammy cases.


I then cut a sidekick rear control arm in half and make shock mount type brackets on the cage.  I welded the cut end of the control arm to the cross member.  So the half of the arm stuck upwards.  I then bolted the cage to the upright, like a shock. (which is in the control arm bushing).
This took care of the side to side torque support needed by the t-case.  I'll see if I can find a better picture of this too.

You can see the upright on the left side of the t-case in this picture


Strong, and replaceable.

that explains alot... hey, is that a devorced t-case there? if so, what t-case is it? and Im guessing your running 2 cases right?

Oh yah, dual cases.
They are mated cases though.



Its OTT's Kicker 3;

http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker3.htm

K... that looks expencive..... I already got a 4.26:1 kit in my case, so its nice and low.... I just have to kill the slips and Im good... altho its working as it is for now.....

Im thinkin about doin hard mounts for the t-case, the rubber ones are shot and between the 2 there like $120 just for the mounts.....  I really need to get my hands on some 35's right now, those 33's look too small.

Yeah well... found those limits on how far she'll lean b4 she rolls...  

OK so who pushed it??

actually... noone... as you see in the first pic, its leanin pretty good... well I got back in, backed it up about a foot, turned the wheels uphill to the left and went foward.... thats when it flipped.....

yeah and another thing.... I was trying to flip it... just to see how far I could tip it b4 going over... Id rather do it there in a washout and have it easy to flip back on all 4 then off a rock face...... mission sucess... I rolled it back over and it started right up with no hesitation...