I just hit 100,000 on my 94 Tracker so it's time for the timeing belt replacement.  Looking at the shop manual it seems pretty easy on one of these.

Any little quirks I should be aware of before I get into this project next weekend?

Thanks,
Richard

IMPORTANT!

The BIGGEST killer of G-series engines stems from one seemingly logical shortcut people take (even "professional" mechanics) while replacing the timing belt, involves removing the crankshaft accessory pulley.


NEVER EVER remove the crankshaft  accessory pulley by removing the large bolt that holds both the accessory pulley and the lower timing belt pulley!

There are 5 (4 on the G13 engines found in Samurais) smaller hard-to-get-to bolts that hold the accessory pulley to the timing belt pulley that should be removed in order to slip the timing belt cover off at the bottom.

Those smaller bolts are there specifically to let you remove the accessory pulley without having to remove the big bolt in the center!  While they are harder to get to (you may be forced to remove the radiator fan and possibly the radiator shroud), that process is FAR easier than reaching into your wallet and handing money to a machine shop to replace your crankshaft because the Woodruff key wallowed out from insufficient crankshaft bolt torqueing or you broke the crankshaft bolt trying to remove it!

The Suzuki forums are full of posts about Samurais that have timing problems because the crankshaft accessory pulley is loose and wobbly - somebody took the "big bolt shortcut" during a timing belt change.  I bought a $3500 4-door Sidekick JLX for $500 specifically because a "professional mechanic" took the "big bolt shortcut"! ($1800 later, it became my daily driver currently with 26k on the rebuilt engine.)  I have seen at least three Samurais in the junkyard or for sale cheap that had floppy crank accessory pulleys.

Did I mention the Big Bolt Shortcut that you should avoid like the plague?   


I hope that this helps! 

IMPORTANT!

The BIGGEST killer of G-series engines stems from one seemingly logical shortcut people take (even "professional" mechanics) while replacing the timing belt, involves removing the crankshaft accessory pulley.


NEVER EVER remove the crankshaft  accessory pulley by removing the large bolt that holds both the accessory pulley and the lower timing belt pulley!

There are 5 (4 on the G13 engines found in Samurais) smaller hard-to-get-to bolts that hold the accessory pulley to the timing belt pulley that should be removed in order to slip the timing belt cover off at the bottom.

Those smaller bolts are there specifically to let you remove the accessory pulley without having to remove the big bolt in the center!  While they are harder to get to (you may be forced to remove the radiator fan and possibly the radiator shroud), that process is FAR easier than reaching into your wallet and handing money to a machine shop to replace your crankshaft because the Woodruff key wallowed out from insufficient crankshaft bolt torqueing or you broke the crankshaft bolt trying to remove it!

The Suzuki forums are full of posts about Samurais that have timing problems because the crankshaft accessory pulley is loose and wobbly - somebody took the "big bolt shortcut" during a timing belt change.  I bought a $3500 4-door Sidekick JLX for $500 specifically because a "professional mechanic" took the "big bolt shortcut"! ($1800 later, it became my daily driver currently with 26k on the rebuilt engine.)  I have seen at least three Samurais in the junkyard or for sale cheap that had floppy crank accessory pulleys.

Did I mention the Big Bolt Shortcut that you should avoid like the plague?   


I hope that this helps! 

THIS BEARS REPEATING!      

That is exactly the kind of thing I am looking out for. 

THANK YOU ACK

IMPORTANT!

The BIGGEST killer of G-series engines stems from one seemingly logical shortcut people take (even "professional" mechanics) while replacing the timing belt, involves removing the crankshaft accessory pulley.


NEVER EVER remove the crankshaft  accessory pulley by removing the large bolt that holds both the accessory pulley and the lower timing belt pulley!

There are 5 (4 on the G13 engines found in Samurais) smaller hard-to-get-to bolts that hold the accessory pulley to the timing belt pulley that should be removed in order to slip the timing belt cover off at the bottom.

Those smaller bolts are there specifically to let you remove the accessory pulley without having to remove the big bolt in the center!  While they are harder to get to (you may be forced to remove the radiator fan and possibly the radiator shroud), that process is FAR easier than reaching into your wallet and handing money to a machine shop to replace your crankshaft because the Woodruff key wallowed out from insufficient crankshaft bolt torqueing or you broke the crankshaft bolt trying to remove it!

The Suzuki forums are full of posts about Samurais that have timing problems because the crankshaft accessory pulley is loose and wobbly - somebody took the "big bolt shortcut" during a timing belt change.  I bought a $3500 4-door Sidekick JLX for $500 specifically because a "professional mechanic" took the "big bolt shortcut"! ($1800 later, it became my daily driver currently with 26k on the rebuilt engine.)  I have seen at least three Samurais in the junkyard or for sale cheap that had floppy crank accessory pulleys.

Did I mention the Big Bolt Shortcut that you should avoid like the plague?   


I hope that this helps! 

Thats what LOCK TIGHT and TORQUE SPECS are for! Oh and some common sense! And I have never heard of a Crank bolt breaking trying to remove it.  LOL!

Cuthulu, I would recommend doing the water pump and check the front Crank seal while you have the front cover off. Might as well do it all while your in there. Water pump for sure! I have made that mistake once before and never again!

And I have never heard of a Crank bolt breaking trying to remove it.   LOL!

Been there, done that!!

Armour:

"And I have never heard of a Crank bolt breaking trying to remove it."


My apologies if I was hallucinating, but are you saying that what I have seen did not happen? That perhaps it was an illusion when I removed the broken crank bolt on my '93 Sidekick???

Because I knew what the problem was on my Sidekick and how to fix it, I took a $500 junker and turned it into a reliable daily driver for not much money based on the above "halucination". And yes, I removed and reinstalled the engine.

The point that I was making was - if you are changing the timing belt (which was the originial poster's question) - you don't have to remove the crank bolt to change the timing belt.

People come to Zukiworld.com for help from folks that have actually "been there and done that".  If you have nothing factual to contribute to a thread's topic, then perhaps you should not contribute.

Just replaced the timming on my 16 v 95 'kick, was not too bad, but clearance was a little tight. definitly remove the fan shroud, the radiator is ok to leave in, just be careful not to flatten or damage the fins. The bolts that hold the pulley on are small, if I remember correctly they were 8 mm heads on them. You will have to take it off before you can get to the two bottom cover bolts. Definitly check the water pump as you will have to take all of this apart again to change it. Get the full belt kit and replace the tensioner  too.

Armour:

"And I have never heard of a Crank bolt breaking trying to remove it."


My apologies if I was hallucinating, but are you saying that what I have seen did not happen? That perhaps it was an illusion when I removed the broken crank bolt on my '93 Sidekick???

Because I knew what the problem was on my Sidekick and how to fix it, I took a $500 junker and turned it into a reliable daily driver for not much money based on the above "halucination". And yes, I removed and reinstalled the engine.

The point that I was making was - if you are changing the timing belt (which was the originial poster's question) - you don't have to remove the crank bolt to change the timing belt.

People come to Zukiworld.com for help from folks that have actually "been there and done that".  If you have nothing factual to contribute to a thread's topic, then perhaps you should not contribute.

Ack! I didn't say anything about you hallucinating nor did i say it did not happen. Don't put words in my mouth! If you are going to quote someone get your facts straight. I was simply saying that I have not ever seen a crank bolt come out broken. Stripped yes but broken no. I have been a mechanic for over ten years and have never seen that! And maybe you never noticed the LOL at the end. lighten up! And as for your " If you have nothing factual to contribute to a threads topic" comment. I have done many of these timing belts and have never seen the facts you talk about. That was my point!

IMPORTANT!

NEVER EVER remove the crankshaft  accessory pulley by removing the large bolt that holds both the accessory pulley and the lower timing belt pulley!

There are 5 (4 on the G13 engines found in Samurais) smaller hard-to-get-to bolts that hold the accessory pulley to the timing belt pulley that should be removed in order to slip the timing belt cover off at the bottom.

Those smaller bolts are there specifically to let you remove the accessory pulley without having to remove the big bolt in the center! 

Thank you, looking at the shop manual I can see where this is something I might have done I hate to say.

Cuthulu, I would recommend doing the water pump and check the front Crank seal while you have the front cover off.

It looks like it is just a basic mechanical pump.  Is this something that is known to go bad on the 1.6L engine or is it a easy thing with a low cost price?

Get the full belt kit and replace the tensioner  too.

So the shop manual does not list this as a service item at either the 100,00 mark or even 200,000.  Not opposed to doing it while it is apart but just wondering if anyone has had a issue with this that would merit this as a preemptive item to do.

The water pump does occasionally go bad, especially on rigs that see offroad use. They are inexpensive and easy to replace if you are already doing the timing belt. I have 130k miles on my tracker and since I've had it, I've put 2 timing belts and 2 water pumps on it. The first time, the water pump went bad and I changed the timing belt while I was in there. The second time the water pump was starting to weep and the front seal was leaking, so I changed the seal, pump and timing belt all at the same time.

As for the tensioner, it couldn't hurt while you're in there. I didn't replace mine, but then again, my g/f's Exploder has eaten a couple idler/tensioner pullys... LOL!

IMPORTANT!
Did I mention the Big Bolt Shortcut that you should avoid like the plague?   

I did this on Saturday 
What should I do to prevent the keyway from getting damaged? or is it too late...  :'(