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factory gear ratio

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kingzoo

factory gear ratio
« on: November 25, 2007, 09:02:38 PM »
   Okay,I know this has probably been asked,but I can't find what I am looking for using the search function.
   I have a 91 Sidekick   1.6 8 valve    3 speed auto.
  What gear ratio do I have in my diffs?
  In a couple of weeks I am installing Jeffs spacers and a 2 inch body lift.I will be running 235's or possibly 30x9.50 as I have a good set of those.I can't afford to lose gas mileage or performance so I wanted to make sure I would be okay.
  I can get front and rear 3rd's with 5.38's  for xheap if I don't already have that ratio and it would be necessary or helpful.
  Thank's

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Offline Mikerpm4x4

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Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2007, 09:08:00 PM »
You should have 4.62s Manual kick of the same year usually have 5.12s

Mike
If your not living life to the fullest then your not living at all.

You wont really know if your wrong till your upsidedown

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kingzoo

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2007, 09:20:50 PM »
    Thank's mike.What if any improvements would be gained from using the 5.38 gears?If mileage or performance gains,on road especially, are  a result I would definately do it.

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Offline SnoFalls

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Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2007, 06:37:04 AM »

I'd say use the 5.38's.
Your RPM's will be a little higher than stock (for the same speed), but not too much. This also manes your mileage might drop some, but the lower gearing will also help accelerate the larger mass of the tires.

You could also use some 5.12 diffs (VERY easy to find). They would bring your speedo back to nearly dead on.

Those 5.38's would be perfect for running 31's, when you step up to that size  ;)
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

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ZUKTOY

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2007, 08:55:27 AM »
Go with the 5.38s.Your entire drivetrain will be relieved. I takes alot of stress off everything forward of your diffs. Dshafts, tcase mounts, tcase, trans, etc. Weld the spidergears up while the 3rd members are out too!

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kingzoo

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2007, 09:48:22 AM »
   Thank's for the help guys.I went ahead and picked up both front and rear thirds a few minutes ago,and will install them when I do my lift and body lift in a few days.I might wait untill after Christmas just in case I run into some extra expenses.
   I could not pass them up for the price,especially since they have about 1200 miles on them since being totaly rebuilt.Not bad for $250.

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Offline sidekicksrock

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Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2007, 11:14:56 AM »
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Weld the spidergears up while the 3rd members are out too!

I would caution against this, Welded spider gears have a habit of breaking when you need them most. When they break they take out the whole axle, not just one wheel. You will then be faced with the prospect of trying to limp home on just one axle or on the tow strap. A spool only costs about 100.00 Trail Tough sells them. Do it right the first time and you will not be sorry later. I am speaking from experience here. Oh and don't spool the front or you will not be able to steer in 4WD. The lock-right works fine though. Again speaking from experience
Student of Now Master of Then

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Offline SnoFalls

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Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2007, 11:52:23 AM »
I would caution against this, Welded spider gears have a habit of breaking when you need them most. When they break they take out the whole axle, not just one wheel. You will then be faced with the prospect of trying to limp home on just one axle or on the tow strap. A spool only costs about 100.00 Trail Tough sells them. Do it right the first time and you will not be sorry later. I am speaking from experience here.
Ditto, do a mini-spool instead of welding it up.

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Oh and don't spool the front or you will not be able to steer in 4WD. The lock-right works fine though. Again speaking from experience
Heh, go to the gym and beef up those arms!

I have a lock-rite up front and even that won;t ratchet sometimes (meaning I still have to mustle on the steering wheel).

Honestly I dunno how worse a mini-spool upfront would be versus a lockrite. I could count on one hand the number of times I've heard it ratchet (and it was setup by brent at trailtough too).
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

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Offline sidekicksrock

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Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2007, 12:04:44 PM »
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Honestly I dunno how worse a mini-spool up front would be versus a lockrite. I could count on one hand the number of times I've heard it ratchet (and it was setup by brent at trailtough too).

I have had both welded spider gears and a Lockright up front and trust me the Lockright is easier, I don't hear it click much either.
Student of Now Master of Then

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kingzoo

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2007, 01:34:42 PM »
   I was planning on waitinguntil I get my dividend check in April and getting another air locker.That way I have normal street manners and locked off road.I thought it was the perfect set up in my last truck.

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ZUKTOY

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2007, 05:13:30 AM »
I must be lucky, I welded 12 diffs and never broke anything in the diff. :laugh: I think spools or welded diffs are much safer in rain or snow in any Short Wheelbase manual trans vehicle. A selectable locker or no locker is the best for street. In snow/ice every time you shift the rear locker will engage and disengage making the truck squirrly. Welded/spooled will be locked every time. If money is no object go selectable front/rear.

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BIG DOG

Re: factory gear ratio
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2007, 06:10:56 AM »
How about someone posting what year, engine ,tranny had what gears so we may have a better idea what to look for .This is as close as I could come with the search,....posted by ZeusZuki ....Vits came out with 4.3 / 4.56 / 4.88 / 5.13 / 5.63 ratios stock ( again from memory   ) but most 1600's are 5.13.

Good luck.

ZeusZuki