Shopping around for the proper size heim joInt to use for sway bar end links. So far a 3/8" female thread heim matches the height of the original balljoint-type end link perfectly. I can drill out the sway bar and upgrade to 1/2" for a little extra strength but I worry about changing the geometry, wondering if you guys think that would be an issue, raising it up about 1/2" or so difference. The only limitation as to how much higher it can go is the tie rods, I don't want anything hitting during an range of motion.

Also I was originally looking for high-strength heims and someone told me that I would only need the cheap ones for sway bar end links. I'd think there's a lot of tension on those end links; what do you fellas think?  I want complete peace of mind and not skimp on the price unless it really doesn't matter. Cause there's chromemoly or stainless steel or mild steel and then there's the question about lined or not, what's really necessary.

IMO....I think regular ol' 3/8 ones would be fine. considering 3/8 through bolt is bigger than the old 6mm stud that originally goes through the a-arm and for materials mentioned there is negligible strength difference with mild or stainless, but chromoly is much stronger but not worth the extra coin for your app.

my .02

IMO....I think regular ol' 3/8 ones would be fine. considering 3/8 through bolt is bigger than the old 6mm stud that originally goes through the a-arm and for materials mentioned there is negligible strength difference with mild or stainless, but chromoly is much stronger but not worth the extra coin for your app.

my .02

I've already had people at 3 or 4 different places tell me that the strength isn't an issue with such a lightweight vehicle. So far seems to be the consensus. But as for wear and tear and weather resistance it looks like the higher quality ones with the lined races would be better. Don't want mud and grit to tear them up when I can buy a better one that's designed for a harsh environment.
The quick release pins I was looking at are rated for over 17,000lbs shear  that's quite overkill for a tracker that weighs under 3,000lbs

Why not just get a set of links from a Jeep?

Why not just get a set of links from a Jeep?

I do believe the Suzuki will have a allergic reaction to jeep components.

Ya, might break out in a rash

Yup my mother's CJ5 has some JKS disco's but the setup on the Tracker is much different. 
Looks like I'll try a "budget" method first, I'll post pics real soon cause I should do it this week.
If it doesn't last, oh well, only $25 invested in materials, no biggie.  On the other hand, if it works for a long time with no problems, GREAT!
I was originally going to replace the sway bar bushings with some nice poly bushings, replace the end link bushings (donuts) too with poly bushings, go with either a heat-treated and zinc coated or stainless steel heim joint with a teflon-lined bushing and then buy a fancy set of quick release pins I found made by Moroso...but hell the bushings are just fine and I don't need all that other fancy shit!  I can buy two heims for about $20 and two pins and throw it together with stock rubber bushings and see how well it works.

FWIW, driving with the sway bar disconnected right now doesn't feel squirrelly at all.  I haven't had any "emergency evasive maneuvers" *knock on wood* but swerving it and pushing it a little, it doesn't feel out of control.  Ride seems softer too. 

I haven't had a sway bar for 5 years, you just learn to
drive it that way, like when you get a locker, you just
learn how to drive with it

Wild

I haven't had a sway bar for 5 years, you just learn to
drive it that way, like when you get a locker, you just
learn how to drive with it

Wild

Better safe than sorry...it's peace of mind for me.  Whether or not it really matters, I don't know, but I don't want to find out.

Here's the parts list now:
->SealMaster TR 6 FEMALE thread 3/8 heim joints ("spherical rod ends," if you try going into a hardware store and say heims they look at you funny).  These are FEMALE thread 3/8-24 (fine thread) with a 3/8" end.
$10.99 ea x2 + tax = $23.95

-> 3/8-24x2-1/4" grade 5 bolts
-> 3/8"x1" pins
total $5.79

Total cost: $29.74
Also, I swung the spring clip to the forward side of the heim joint.  My reasoning was that if it was behind the joint, it MAY rotate upwards and contact the CV boot.  Didn't want to risk it, figured I'd give the boot a little extra clearance and keep the clip out of the way.
As I mentioned, I was going to buy some much more expensive heims and some fancy-schmancy quick-release pins and add some poly bushings...then I figured I don't need none of that stuff and decided to try it a little cheaper way first and make sure everything works alright.  When I remove the pin entirely, the heim will clear the sway bar no problem.  Nothing to get in the way with the pin totally removed.  No problems with it, seems to work great, a damn good idea for just under $30 in material.

Quote from: wildgoody on April 05, 2011, 08:36:52 AM

I haven't had a sway bar for 5 years, you just learn to
drive it that way, like when you get a locker, you just
learn how to drive with it

Wild

Better safe than sorry...it's peace of mind for me.  Whether or not it really matters, I don't know, but I don't want to find out.

Here's the parts list now:
->SealMaster TR 6 FEMALE thread 3/8 heim joints ("spherical rod ends," if you try going into a hardware store and say heims they look at you funny).  These are FEMALE thread 3/8-24 (fine thread) with a 3/8" end.
$10.99 ea x2 + tax = $23.95

-> 3/8-24x2-1/4" grade 5 bolts
-> 3/8"x1" pins
total $5.79

Total cost: $29.74
Also, I swung the spring clip to the forward side of the heim joint.  My reasoning was that if it was behind the joint, it MAY rotate upwards and contact the CV boot.  Didn't want to risk it, figured I'd give the boot a little extra clearance and keep the clip out of the way.
As I mentioned, I was going to buy some much more expensive heims and some fancy-schmancy quick-release pins and add some poly bushings...then I figured I don't need none of that stuff and decided to try it a little cheaper way first and make sure everything works alright.  When I remove the pin entirely, the heim will clear the sway bar no problem.  Nothing to get in the way with the pin totally removed.  No problems with it, seems to work great, a damn good idea for just under $30 in material.

I'm not sure the set up you've got pictured will work... The pin will rotate in the sway bar's hole and move quite a bit before you start to flex the bar.. I think it would start wallowing out the hole until you had no sway bar action at all. The pin needs to stay solid or 'relative' to the sway bar for that to work.

hope that helps

-Eric

Thats another thought I had when I wanted to go to 1/2" joints but the height was too restrictive. The more the bar rotates upwards the closer it gets to the tie rod.
I'm trying this out for now. I was thinking of going with a different pin and adding a sleeve where it goes through the sway bar. So it would still be 3/8" at the heim joint side of the pin but the other side would have a larger diameter
Either that or buy 1/2" heims and use male threads with an extra long shank and add a jam nut to put it at he proper height
Thanks for pointing it out, it was already in the back of my mind too

I'm not certain you got the point Eric was making - even if the pin was the exact diameter of the hole in the heim and the sway bar, the pin will "tilt" when the bar moves because it's not firmly secured.

To use a removable pin like that you would need a clevis, and the sway bar would fit in the U of the clevis.

Those look perfect frodem any idea on specs or retailer?

Eric and Fordem are correct. I noticed the same thing this morning looking at your photos. It will wallow out the holes and possibly bend some things.

I also agree with the others. You could make a "cap". Kinda like a frenched spring mount. A open bottom box of sorts with a through hole to offer double sheer bolting. And weld it to the anti-sway bar. I do like the nice clean look of the rod ends too.