Hey everybody didnt see any posts regarding my problem so here it goes.

I have a 1997 suzuki sidekick sport 1.8l. Some months ago the car started having a rough idle. When ever i came to a stop light the rpm would fluctuate up and down and the car would almost stall out. It progressively got worse and the car did start stalling when at a stop. During one of the rough idling episodes i decided to turn off the car, wait for the stop light, then turn it back on. But when i went to turn on the car, it wouldnt turn on, in fact not even the dash lights light up. So i called toyota service (they do suzuki's in hawaii), and had them check it out. Turns out during all the rough idling shaking a hose had come loose and spilled ( i think power steerin fluid) all over the alternator, which fried it and i ended up running my battery dry. They also told me my computer was fried. Had all of that replaced and the ca turned on but still rough idle. They told to change maf, did and no change, then iac, did also and no change, then they had the nerve to tell me that the whole throttle body had to be changed. I argued they gave me the run around, so i jus paid and got out of there.
I went for a 2 month trip, and while i was gone my friends was using my car. Turns out a oil leak started and the engine ran with very low oil for a while. I came home it was running horribly. Took the engine apart saw that a couple of piston rings were broken and had scratched up the cylindes. Had machine shop hone cylinders, install oversize pistons, and check head. Got everything checked and ready and put it back together. Car is running alot better almost to full power, but now the rough idling returned.
I cleaned egr valve, checked for vacuum leaks the propane method didnt find any( first time doing it so i am not sure if i did a good job at it. But visually inspecting all hoses look good ( no cracks). There was a crack on exhaust manifold and i put thermosteel on it. Seems to be holding and i can feel and hear any air coming out. I did notice that at first car runs great and no rough idling, but once it warms up the problems start. Also when i reset the ecm things get realy bad.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, i have been trying to figure this out on my own without going to costly mechanics. Also the ecm pulls up a p0171 code, and a p0420 code but i dont have a catalytic converter so it think that is why.
anyways hope somebody can help thanks
Julius

Here is what the FSM says to check....

code P0171
check for vacuum leaks.
check for exhaust leaks...probably not the problem, if you got all the leaks sealed up.
check for correct fuel pressure...could be a weak fuel pump, or a restricted fuel filter, or dirty/partially clogged injectors.
check for fuel contamination (water in gas).
check the MAF...probably not it, since you replaced it.
check the #1 O2 sensor (the one in the exhaust manifold).
check the wiring between the #1 O2 sensor and the ECM...make sure the wires aren't broken.
check the wiring between the MAF and the ECM....make sure the wires aren't broken.
check the PCV valve for proper operation....maybe even replace it, if you haven't for awhile.
make sure all the wiring grounds are connected and making good connection....there are lots of them...on the inner fenders, on the engine, on the interior kick panels, etc.

code P0420
You likely have this code because you aren't running a cat.  What this code means is the cat is not working and the second O2 sensor feedback to the ECM is not "different enough" from the first O2 sensors feedback to the ECM.
If you aren't going to run a cat, then you will always have this code.  I don't think it should cause the engine to run poorly though.
I think you can buy an O2 sensor simulator that plugs into the wiring harness and fools the ECM into thinking the second O2 sensor is there and operating properly....if you care about getting rid of the code and don't want to add a cat.

great thanks for the list! i have already changed pcv, fuel filter. i tried chekin for vacuum leaks with propane but didnt find anything ill try smoke machine. I tested the voltage on O2 sensor. I got a constant reading below .5V when idling and reving. But i got a .8V reading when at full rev. could the constant below .5V be just because i am running lean or could the o2 sensor be defective? also could a defective o2 sensor cause the car to run lean and rough idle?
thanks for the help

Yes, a defective O2 sensor could cause it to run lean and run crappy.

Hey Skihiranger
thanks
for all the help i have checked all of those and they are fine.
but now i am getting a p0302 code which i know is a misfire in cylinder 2.
Did some research looks like it might be the fuel injector or ignition coil. I also read something that when igniton coils get a crack and they heat up they can malfunction, but when cold they work okay. So since my problem starts when the car is warm i was thinking it would be that
What do you think?
I also visually inspected the fuel injector and the openings don't have any carbon build-up. I also bought an additive to clean them out last month.
Thanks
JG

but now i am getting a p0302 code which i know is a misfire in cylinder 2.
Did some research looks like it might be the fuel injector or ignition coil. I also read something that when igniton coils get a crack and they heat up they can malfunction, but when cold they work okay. So since my problem starts when the car is warm i was thinking it would be that
What do you think?

Could be a coil pack.  The 1.8s have the COP (coil on plug), so they have 4 "coils".  What you could do to check it is to swap the coil pack from #2 with one from another cylinder.  Then see if the error code follows the coil pack.  If it does, then the coil pack is defective.  If it doesn't, then you need to look at something else.