Hey ,

What if I flip the strut mount and then mount the lower balljoint under the a-arm? I could also make small skid/protection plates to guard the mount. Let me know what you think.

Later,
Bill

Bill,
I had my strut mount flipped (with the 3" drop bracket)and it gave just enough extra down travel to trash (over extending) many CV's. The drivers sidewould pull past the retaining ring in the inner cup and the passenger side would pull far enough out of the side gears that it would twist the end of the axle off under power. Both would only happen during full drop and wheels truned. I flipped the mounts back over when I installed my Anvil and have had alot better luck.
Later,
Zig

hi there,

i too suffered from the front spring sag. i sent calmini a pic of car and they sent me replacement front springs. after a couple of weeks of use the sag came back again. how did u solve this problem? did u use a spacer?

alain

Mike,

I have a full size spare w/steel rim and a small tool box mounted in the rear. If I measure the space from the tire to fender opening the front has 7" and the rear has 8 1/2".  Measure yours for me and let me know what you have. I run 33x12.50 TSL Radails. The thing that really bothers me is the top of the wheels tilting inward. Like this    //      \\      those are tires - lol.  Thats if your looking at the front of the vehicle. If a 3/4" spacer gave 1 1/2" lift a 1/2" spacer would probably do the trick.

Thanks,
Bill

Shouldn't the measurement be taken at the coil rather than at a body point. I would think there would be too many variances between one vehicle to another to measure at the tire for comparison. I'd compare from the tire one side to the other, but that's it. Between vehicles, I'd measure the static compression of the coil. It's what hold the vehicle up.

mm

Mike,

....snip....The thing that really bothers me is the top of the wheels tilting inward. Like this    //      \\      those are tires - lol.  Thats if your looking at the front of the vehicle. If a 3/4" spacer gave 1 1/2" lift a 1/2" spacer would probably do the trick.

Thanks,
Bill

What makes your tires tilt like that is the radial link are the lower control arm plays on you as it's the solid link to the frame. The push to go in comes from the coil being too compressed along with the link of the strut. Now some discussion has brought about the spacer for the strut. If the strut is considered a linkable shock, it has no weight carrying capabilities. However, as it's a solid link for the top mount of the front suspension configuration, I'd look into seeing if it's mounted propering, the cone is mounted securely, the frame mount is secured, etc. If the coil's measurement comes within/near consistantcy, then I'd look into the strut's mount.
Lastly, the ball joint is a link between the knuckle and the lower control arm. Once this extends to it's farthest point (limited by the geometry of the ball within the socket), then I'd say it needs replacement.

If this read like mud, think of the truck without the coil. How much the lower control arm, the ball joint, and the strut play for the front suspension geometry. Coil is used to suspend the weight of the vehicle.

I'm confused in trying to figure out a way of writing this to be understandable.

Have a safe and happy holiday.

This measurement was just a gage. We actually went later and measured the up travel to see if they were close.

Bill

Shouldn't the measurement be taken at the coil rather than at a body point. I would think there would be too many variances between one vehicle to another to measure at the tire for comparison. I'd compare from the tire one side to the other, but that's it. Between vehicles, I'd measure the static compression of the coil. It's what hold the vehicle up.

mm

The ball joints may need replaced. One thing is I have had to adjust the toe in a couple of times, it seems it gets out of whack somehow. :-/

Later,
Bill

What makes your tires tilt like that is the radial link are the lower control arm plays on you as it's the solid link to the frame. The push to go in comes from the coil being too compressed along with the link of the strut. Now some discussion has brought about the spacer for the strut. If the strut is considered a linkable shock, it has no weight carrying capabilities. However, as it's a solid link for the top mount of the front suspension configuration, I'd look into seeing if it's mounted propering, the cone is mounted securely, the frame mount is secured, etc. If the coil's measurement comes within/near consistantcy, then I'd look into the strut's mount.
Lastly, the ball joint is a link between the knuckle and the lower control arm. Once this extends to it's farthest point (limited by the geometry of the ball within the socket), then I'd say it needs replacement.

If this read like mud, think of the truck without the coil. How much the lower control arm, the ball joint, and the strut play for the front suspension geometry. Coil is used to suspend the weight of the vehicle.

I'm confused in trying to figure out a way of writing this to be understandable.

Have a safe and happy holiday.

If I am not mistaken a chamber kit from you local auto parts store will fix your tire tilt. My friends all dive the lowered rice burners and their tires tilited too, until they bought the kit.

i also suffer from front spring sag.  i have the calmini 6" lift combo kit installed. i dont have neither the winch or the calmini bumper installed so i think my front end is pretty light. how can i correct this? and where can i get the spring spacer inserts?

how can i upload a picture so u can visualize my vitara?

thanks for the help

barcus

Has anybody personally experienced more then just a couple Calmini 3 inch suspension lifts, "hands on" at one time to know weather or not there are actually spring differences?  People post both ways on this topic and I was wondering if it is due to manufacturing differences in the springs or is it primarily due to vehicle differences?  (Driving style, additional gear, etc)

I find it strange to hear about peoples spring sag, when the 3 different, 3 inch lifts I've seen have been 'too firm' even with winch bumpers attached.

~Nate

I have the lift the bumper and a 8000i Warn winch on the front.  Plus all the skid sheilds.  

You also have to take into effect tire and rims (the leverage on the front suspention).  I run a 15x8" rim with a 2 1/2" backspacing.  Running Goodyear MTR's 32x11.5R15.

Lastly I've done a lot of Sand Dune ridding.  High speeds, full spring compressions going into hills, and air time at the top with full compression again at landing.

With all those combos, mine had spring sag after 1 1/2 years.