Yes I'm the guy from ebay. Most guys including myself run 1.5" coil and 1.5" strut spacers up front and 2" coil and longer rear shocks. I sell everything but the shocks for $120 shipped to you in US or $130 to Canada. The shocks I reccomend are from a 95 Mustang. If you use the strut spacers you don't have to space the mount, either way the same thing is accomplished.

well thanks for the info. that will probably be the route i go, unless i hit the lotto and can jump to big lift. but that wont happen lol. im sorry i have so many questions, like i said though, i never once had an interest in these things until recently and now i love em, but know absolutly zero about em. which leads me to the next thing cause this is gonna be an either or situation. my 93 has some miles, i think i said it bunch of times already. it seems to have pretty good power but sounds like its tickin an awful lot. what im gettin at is, will it hold up to bigger tires and off road action or will it wear out and get tired real quick because of the extra strain. i dont wanna lose this thing haha. so im almost thinkin it might be better to focus on the rust/rot and maybe swap a low mileage 16valve if its a bolt in plug and play, havent researched it yet. im just trying to plan ahead so i can enjoy this thing for as many years as possible.

Do what you should do with every new-to-you vehicle, and ESPECIALLY a vehicle that might me taking you far off the beaten path. Get a manual (FSM, or Chilton) and go through the vehicle from one end to the other. Replace all fluids (oil, coolant, breaks, diff, t-case, trans etc), do a full tuneup (that includes timing belt & valve adjustment) and go through the whole emissions chapter (which will direct you on how to test most of the parts that could be worn out and cause engine problems). Follow the black wire off your battery, and check where they connect - are the grounds clean? If not - clean them.

Before you change your engine oil, run Automatic Transmission Fluid in it for about 1/2 a tank of gas - ATF his a super-high detergent package, and is the cheapest / safest / best way to flush that old oil out. DO NOT use ANY, NONE, ZIP oil additives after doing your oil change (until you're ready to flush the engine just before your next oil change again). Flushing an engine for a few miles = okay, running oil additives for 3000+ miles is bad (it throws the balance of the detergent package off too much for too long, and will eventually make bad things happen in your engine).

Jeff's spacers are by far the most bang-for-your-buck lift out there. A 1/5 or 2" lift for $200? Can't beat that. Stay with 29" tires - don't go bigger - you'll thank me later.

 know to go through all that. i gotta find a manual though. i did do a basic tune up, cap rotor,wires, and plugs. i actually found that i had been driving it with the firing order screwed up and i just thought thats how it was till i did the tune up, big difference in power. i havent done the whole fluid change deal cause the weather here in ct hasnt been to friendly. is the timing belt fairly simple on these. ive never done anything timing wise on anything but small block chevys. well thats a dumb question cause if i get a manual itll tell me. i also get very nervous when it comes to my vehicles cause i get very attached to them quickly, lol, sounds wierd maybe, and my fiance and family hate it but, im trying to prove em wrong that this one isnt some pile thats gonna be waste of time and money.
i have to agree that by the look of it that jeffs lift is good bang for the buck. ive looked at the calmini,zukination,rocky road, bds, all of em i think. they all are just outta my price range right now and just probably overkill for what i really need right now.

The big thing with the timing belt is to NOT try to take off the bolt in the middle (attaching to the crank). There's 4 smaller bolts that will allow you to remove the balancer (feel around in there, you'll find 'em). DO NOT use an impact wrench. What can happen if you do it the wrong way is to damage the keyway - and that causes bad things. Google "Ack's FAQ" and then search for "timing belt" there. In fact - spend some time on that FAQ site, it's the most comprehensive Suzuki FAQ out there. He even has some of the FSM on there. Once you do a full tunup as described, you'll notice your Suzuki will be happy with you, and it will reward you with many miles of good smooth service.

thanks man i needed that little bit of reassurance.

You can grab the FSM off of Acks Faq (http://www.acksfaq.com) and it has a walk through on changing the timing belt on the 16v.

Not that you need much of one, but it does warn you against tightening down the bolt on the idler pully.  Which my other instructions did not...

Oh, and change your front seal while your in there.  It sucks when those blow out.

that acks faq bsight is just what i need i think, i checked it out they got everything on there

It covers 90% of the stuff out there... which is why it's call FAQ 

hey hillbilly deluxe where in CT are you from ?

gaylordsville. part of new milford sorta, right down the road from kent.