Tried the impact, 2 foot breaker bar, the torch, putting it in gear and all the compinations, no luck.  so I'm gonna try fixing the oil leak in the front cover without pulling the timing pully.

Thanks for the ideas though
Ken

Put the socket on it, wedge the breaker bar
in the frame and kick the starter, I forgot
about this way and it has worked for others

What are you using for an impact gun? I had to borrow a "better one" from my mechanic friend, I think it would handle more air pressure or something.

its just an ok impact wrench.  The starter button trick worked great.  Thanks guys

hey same problem here but the head snapped off the bolt, theres a little shank sticking out now but its stuck as its going to get, how can i remove it?

At this point, i'd give up and buy a new engine...

What a bummer for you.

i sure hope one bolt doesnt cause that i mean this thing spanks the banks and passes ca smog i dont want to give up that easy.....anyone else have any ideas?

hey same problem here but the head snapped off the bolt, theres a little shank sticking out now but its stuck as its going to get, how can i remove it?

weld on a nut, and then use that to spin it off ... dunno how much you have to work with.

Could also try cutting a clean slot into the bit sticking out and use the slot to break it free.

I'd also think that getting the end redhot to help break the bond may help ...

good luck

If it runs so well why do you need to remove
the crank bolt

I think you need to remove the engine to be
able to get into where the bolt lives and work
with it. Wait until you need to do major work,
You can change the timing belt with the bolt
in, just remove the small hex head screws to
get the pully off for that

Wild

I'd check with a machinist.  

Find one that will work for beer.


If it wrung the head of the bolt then you are probally not going to back it out easily.


I just did one and mine was a SOB to get out.  Now I need a tap to clean the threads, 10x1.25 I think.  

And a few good ideias on crank keyway repair.


I start a new thread on this repair, Not intending to Hyjack...







JB Weld to correct the damaged keyway and some Loc-tite 609 on the shaft. 

 Loc–Tite # 609, Cylindrical Type ( Green ) high viscosity / high temperature, and # 680, medium viscosity / high strength. This is used when you must fill and ‘ voids ‘ or wear on a shaft when mounting a gear or pulley. It is usually not necessary to use any heat on this type to make it release. Remember to clean the oil off the mating parts before using Loc–Tite. Acetone or plain alcohol usually works well.

Looking into possibly drilling and taping the (Crank / pully) mating area opposite the keyway and adding a set scred to take some of the load from the key.