Thanks for everyones help before.

I changed the timing belt and checked the keyway, its all good. Tightened the valve lash and that made things quieter, still some rattle, but not bad.

Couple questions:
I broke off one of the pulley bolts, is that going to be a problem to take care of now, or should it be fine with the other 3 until I have to take it off again?

Where can I get one of the rubber, timing window covers?

I am probably going to have to do a clutch job on this thing soon, the throwout bearing OF COURSE is about toasted, seems like thats always the first thing to go, WAY before the friction material begins to give. Anyway it rattles loudly and clunks sometimes during gear changes, everytime I leave the parking spot in reverse it seems to pause when loading up and clunks.  So I have never done a clutch job by myself, any tips for doing it on my sammy?

think thats it.

Thanks again people, i appreciate it.

Try Figgy for that little rubber plug. He stocks tham as well as Hawk.

I didnt see it at hawk, and I googled figgy samurai, and didnt get anything, is he a member here or something?

changing the clutch on the samurai is very easy. Take out the center shaft and the little brace under the tranny. Next get the grinder and take about a 1/4" off of the rear tranny mount. If you don't cut  the mount you need to unbolt the engine on one side and pull if forward about 1/4. I've cut about 4 of these brackets and never had a problem after.

Depending on the wheeling you might want to go for a good clutch or just go back to normal. On my 1.3 DOHC we had to put a centerforce...it blew the other ones to hell.

Take the old clutch off, clean the surface and re-install the new clutch. Alot of people will get the fly wheel turned at this time...I've never got one done.

If your starter has been grinding this is the time to flip the teeth. Take the fly wheel off and get your torch out. You heat the outer ring and then it will pop off...maybe with help but it does come off. Flip the ring over and re-install on the fly wheel and let cool. Gives you a brand new wset of teeth to grind.

With your new clutch you'll get an alignement tool...if it doens't then you can take an old tranny apart and use the shaft to ligne up your new clutch. Remember to always change the pilot bearing and the release bearing.

Pilot bearing removal: it's alot easier if the flywheel is not on the engine but I always leave it on. Get to the auto store and buy a needle for your grease gun. Then you need to buy a bolt that just fits into the center of the pilot hole...you can bring the new one with you for sizing, you will need to remove the part that has thread on it so get a long one. Back to the shop. fill in behind the old pilot hole using the needle and the grease gun. The needle will let you fill it from the back and push all the air out. Next get BFH (big F$|removethispart|@#$ hammer) or small one will do. Insert modified bold into pilot bearing hole and hit head with hammer.....if the grease comes out and it will then put more grease and hit with hammer again. The grease will push out the bearing.

Make sure to clean the grease off the flywheel and clean the new clutch with some brake clean but it sz that in the instructions for the new cltuch and you read them...right?

It's real easy and I've done some myself but it's alot easier if there are two. Before you take the tranny out make sure to tie the top of the engine to the front of the zuke to make sure the engine doesn't twist backwards and busting the dist cap...this from experience.

WOW Thanks a ton, lotta help there...

Whats people experiences with different clutches? good/bad  I am looking at one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200360566704&viewitem=

or one of these, but I wonder about them, the brand name is "performance clutch products" never heard of em, anyone have experience with these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320408022665&viewitem=

I am trying to get one thats gonna be at least as strong as stock, but I dont got much to play with, so I would like to keep it near 150ish, I am not a fan of those house brands either, if they still have them, like the one I got at napa once, we put it in, the next week I did a quick start(well it was in a geo spectrum so it wasnt a quick start) and POP all the friction material just CAME OFF in two big pieces, riveted, not bonded....cheapo.

I just wondered what is everyone using/have used, and what they think about it.

Thanks

Regarding the broken bolt:

I would replace it as soon as possible.  I'm anal about things being balanced and, even though the broken bolt is not very far off the center of rotation, that broken bolt does unbalance the crankshaft ever so slightly.

The quick fix is to obtain a fresh crank timing gear and a new bolt.  Doing this requires you to remove/reinstall the crank bolt per the FSM.  Don't do it right and you "screw the pooch".  That's a bad thing - especially if you are a test pilot... "srcewing the pooch" usually results in "augering in" in that profession.  On a Samurai/TracKick engine it means a buying a new crankshaft. 

Man, I am wordy today! Actually, I'm wordy EVERY day!   

The less quick fix is to extract the bolt and install a new one.  You may have to either remove the radiator or the engine to get enough room to do this task.

I hope thatt this helps!

I didnt see it at hawk, and I googled figgy samurai, and didnt get anything, is he a member here or something?

Figmo owns roadless gear. Try that instead of figgy