Doh, I forgot that you don't need to undo tranny from cross member, so sowwy

Yep, learned that the hard way   .    Getting all the parts refinished and ready to go back in. When my buddy and I pulled the engine I had previously removed the single nut from the top of each of the rubber mounts and was going to pull it that way. Of course it wouldn't come straight up or out and he suggested that when I go to put it ( engine ) back I should attach all the mounts to the block first INCLUDING the part that bolts to the chassis with the 3 bolts. That way it should just drop down flat. Makes sense to me.
I need to stop by my buddies shop and have them weld in a bung to my oil pan to receive a 90 degree AN10 fitting for my turbo drain. I'm going to try and get rid of all that scavenge pump stuff. Now that I've got the turbo oiling under control shouldn't need it.  Simplify.

Whats the preferred way to install the engine, intake manifold and accessories ( PS and AC ) attached ? or build it up once it's in? I know getting to all the intake manifold hardware was a bitch, same with the mounts for the power steering pump and ac compressor. It would sure be easier to install that stuff while it's on the engine stand. If I have to build it up after install at least it wont be soaked in oil and grime.

I usually put the engine together as much as I can before going in, I usually leave the p/s pump with the truck as it's one less mess from opening another line. A/C stays with the truck also so I don't have to recharge it. Just leave the intake brace off so you can put the wiring harness back in. I leave the 3 hole motor mount plate on the motor, makes it a little wider going in but not that bad.

Cool, sounds like a plan.

Got all my welding mods done, new AN 10 fitting for the turbo drain on the oil pan, which will connect to a 90 degree AN10 fitting off the turbo hose drain, and for good measure another AN10 drain and cap on the auto trans pan. I had previously used one of those drill and bolt drain plugs on the trans pan and it ALWAYS leaked, and because it stuck up an inch inside the pan it still left about a quart of fluid even after "draining". Now that puppy will completely drain leaving nothing in the pan to spill when dropped. Just waiting on a couple of new parts to be delivered and she'll be ready to go back in.

soon it will be time for shakedown/breakdown !

Hopin' so! Doing my damdest to make it ready for Rousch. I will need to get in some break in miles before that though.

what parts are you waiting for?

Aren't you going to post pics of your sano-clean engine bay?        

Still waiting on a couple of replacement coolant hoses and even though I powerwashed the engine bay it still looks like a 20 year old, off road drivin vehicle ( meaning faded and missing paint ),  but I will post up a pic of my sano new engine soon.   

New engine and what I found when I pulled the old one.

looks great!

LOTS of work, huh? 
Hopefully you guys get it back in place today; betcha can't wait to hear it spring to life! 

OOOHHHHHHH Shiney, me likey

I'm gonna subtitle this :  ALL DRESSED UP AND NOWHERE TO GO: 
Man did I F up. I never thought to take into account the cranks may be different between my 95 with 3 speed auto trans, and the crank in the 98  ( with unknown trans )I completely rebuilt. Like an ass, I assumed they were the same...

Turns out the ID of the hole in the end of the crankshaft on the new motor (98) is 16.36mm while the same hole in the old (95) crankshaft end is 20.97mm. We didn't realize it until a third party showed up to help and got under the truck to see what was holding up the engine and trans from coupling completely and even he couldn't figure it out. So we pulled the motor back out and started to really look, and that's when we discovered the difference. The centering nub in my torque converter is MUCH bigger than the hole in the end of the crank where it should fit. TC centering nub measures 20.75 at it's widest diameter. There is also a difference in the off set of the flex plate. The flex plate will bottom against the mounting bosses of the torque converter before the trans and engine are completely joined. F*#!!!!

I measured everything once we got the engine back out ( F AGAIN!) and the difference in depth from the oil seal housing to the outside edge of the crank where the flex plate bolts is also significant: old measures 7.86mm,  new is 6.09mm.

So now I have a real dilemma: try and find a flex plate/torque converter that will mate between my 3speed auto and this 98 crankshaft, or tear the engine apart and have the old crank ground and refit with new bearings to install in the new block, or rebuild the bottom end of my old engine and put the fresh head on it. what a pita.

So, anyone done this newer to older swap and know what fits? Help 

Wow, that sucks ass Mike. I don't have any good advice for this or bad advice for that matter. I might be a dumb ass but would it be possible to open up the hole in the end of the crank an make your old flex plate fit? Maybe if you could get a couple detail pics it would help us stimulate our brain cells.