Keep in mind that it needs to be streetable and I have a 1 month window....Plus I have a job, 2 kids and a wife that Id like to keep for a while longer. Toyota knuckle open new problems that I do not want like Brake pressure, Bolt pattern, ect. I want to retain trackick knuckles. My Cvs are already designed to run with that.

For those who havent seen mike" wheel"

And a better shot of his rig as of last spring

Quote from: ebewley on December 15, 2005, 11:11:40 AM

Quote from: Mikerpm4x4 on December 14, 2005, 07:51:53 PM

Here is a pic.

Mike

Have you had tranny troubles lately?

-Eric

What is wrong this that? It looks normal to me. 

Zig

I's just ribbin' Mikey because that was the only clean part of the rig suggesting it had been removed for service lately... 

-Eric

Yeah, I mean even I got it. Sheeesh, Zig is slippin

For those who havent seen mike" wheel"

ElBurrobigzook, Youve been holding out on me! I do love that jump. That could be part of my problem.

Mike

Mike, for the arms, one of the things I've noticed a lot of for aftermarket making new arms is the use of the uni-ball for a ball joint. I would think you could fab a bracket to bolt to the upper strut location of the knuckle, then have the uniball setup for it. For a shock setup, most manu's for desert racing use a coil-over setup due to the space configuration along with a 'Y' upper arm. The spread of the frame mount for the upper arm is smaller than the spread for the lower arm. Hope this helps some.....

Mike, for the arms, one of the things I've noticed a lot of for aftermarket making new arms is the use of the uni-ball for a ball joint. I would think you could fab a bracket to bolt to the upper strut location of the knuckle, then have the uniball setup for it. For a shock setup, most manu's for desert racing use a coil-over setup due to the space configuration along with a 'Y' upper arm. The spread of the frame mount for the upper arm is smaller than the spread for the lower arm. Hope this helps some.....

I am planning on using a Uni ball for the upper balljoint. I wonder if a Currie johnny joint would reach enough angle to fully turn. Ive had good luck with those. I think I will have enough room to use a coil and shock setup. I want to keep this build cheap and to keep as many parts as common as possible. this way I can stop at the local NAPA and fix it if I break something. (Blow a shock ot snap a tie rod. Im thinking a jeep grand cherokee coil and Im not sur on the shocks yet. Mabey a pair of the same part# F150 shocks Im already running in the rear. Im thinking tierods from a 90s chev truck. They are larger and longer.

 Why do you suppose they run the uppers further apart? I would think that having the uppers and lower arms the same length would keep the tires straight (camber) at all ride heights. I had been thinking of making the uppers and lowers the same length. Mabe I will spread them a little.

Mike

I think he is talking about a bigger Y in the upper A-arm
that the coilover goes through, but equal length arms.

You know that you also want your pivot of the arms at
about the same place the CVs are located to reduce the
in and out movement of the CV in the cups.

Sometimes good things should be left alone...

Sometimes good things should be left alone...

Thank you, I take that as a real compliment. Ive already thought of this. If I hate my new setup, I already know how to build that, and I will do it again if I have to. I wouldnt go through all this effort if I didnt think it would work better.

Mike

Hi Mike,

The link I gave you earlier on has a lot of stuff in it.
We got a set of plans over here and ALL the arms are made from only 1 jig eg: they are ALL the same - i am sure this is where you are heading

Take a good look at this site - it has a lot of good stuff in it.

ZeusZuki

Quote from: Zukipilot on December 15, 2005, 01:37:09 PM

Quote from: ebewley on December 15, 2005, 11:11:40 AM

Quote from: Mikerpm4x4 on December 14, 2005, 07:51:53 PM

Here is a pic.

Mike

Have you had tranny troubles lately?

-Eric

What is wrong this that? It looks normal to me. 

Zig

I's just ribbin' Mikey because that was the only clean part of the rig suggesting it had been removed for service lately... 

-Eric

I was looking at all of the oil covered areas that I am filimiar with, I did not even notice the clean part

Hi Mike,

The link I gave you earlier on has a lot of stuff in it.
We got a set of plans over here and ALL the arms are made from only 1 jig eg: they are ALL the same - i am sure this is where you are heading

Take a good look at this site - it has a lot of good stuff in it.

ZeusZuki

I have looked at the site many times since your post. I like the Idea of using the same jig for all the arms... I hadnt thought of that. Seems really simple now that you mentioned it. Thanks, This is why I started this thread. 

EVERYONE, THANKS FOR THE INFO TO DATE!
keep the tips, tricks, websites with closeup suspension pics, ect, comming this way! Untill the first of the year I have time to make changes to any plans in my head.  After that I will have to roll with the plan on hand and it will be harder to make changes.

Mike

porsche cv's...they'll take everything you can throw at them www.kartek.com

They are kind of big, but will hold back over 450 HP

These were on my list, but they need a slip shaft,
these CVs have no cup for movement