I have a swb 8v manual that I am currently building up. It is a manual but I want to put a 3 speed auto in it and work the engine a little. I need to know a couple of things to start with. What is the 3 speed like to drive with? I have the 4 speed in my lwb and that is good but I'm wondering what the gear spacing is like on the 3 speed. The 8v in OZ gets a carby and I will be changing that for something better, maybe a Weber but am undecided at this point. Also I will be replacing the exhaust with a Tri-Y header and I'm thinking 2&1/4" pipe. I want to get the compression up to at least 9.5:1 (10:1 max) and will look at cleaning up the head while I'm at it. The thing is getting the cam sorted. I want it to develop good power through the bulk of the rev range and not drop off at 4000rpm like I've heard the torquer cams can do. As it's going to used with an auto I need to take into account the stall speed too. This will be a daily driver as well as a trail runner. Any suggestions for the cam specs? I can get the stock cam reground or I can have a billet cam done for a lot more $$$. I will also look at an adjustable cam pulley as that worked for my 16v engine. The plus is I already have 5.12's in the diffs instead of an autos 4.6's and gears in the t-case so it will be able to cope with some larger rubber. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Do it, I am running the basic setup
that you are talking about, and love it

Sounds like a good build CJ

Some thoughts on the engine...

If you built it up like the DIY engine build thread and added
- Good cam...something like 190 duration/.375 lift it would drop peak torque rpm but still have
  some top end.
- Adjustable cam pulley is a good idea so you can dial in things the way you want.
- Oz got a lot of the English cars, think about copying the Stromberg set up I used on the
  airplane but go with the CD150's or SU 1 1/2" instead of the 175's I used. Should be cheap!
- Give the crank scraper a shot, better oil control, little bit of power, cheap!
- 20% speed reduction crank pulley...again cheap power.

On the head...
- Port match obvious clean up in the runners
- 3 angle grind, back cut the seats

Don't know if the compression bump is going to be worth the hassle...if it's cheap I guess.

Be a nice budgeet build, should get over 90hp and a bunch more torque.

Just some thoughts

Zag

 

That's basically what I'm looking at. With the 3 angle grind what do think? 15/45/75? I do want to try out the crank scraper. The underdrive pulley is something I have considered as you can gain a few hp and Nm but my concern is that it can get pretty warm here in the summer and crawling around offroad I'm not sure I want to slow down either the water pump or my A/C. As to the cam, just so I am on the same page are you talking duration or advertised duration and nett lift or gross lift? Do you know what the rocker ratio is? I haven't played with SU's or Strombergs since my first couple of cars many years ago. As I recall they were both pretty similar and easy to work on. Got a preference? What did you do for a manifold?

As to the rest of the setup I already have a Calmini 3" suspension fitted with Old Man Emu struts and the strut spacers but haven't got the winch bar on yet so it rides a little firm. On a side note I tried it with the swaybar attached and I kept squealing tires going around corners but it stopped when I took it off and the ride and handling have barely changed.

The t-case has crawler gears fitted and I thought 1st low in the 4speed auto was really slow but 1st low in a manual is seriously slow. The diffs have ARB difflocks front and rear. I have put the XL-7 steel housings in along with the lhs driveshafts both sides and I have 4 door brakes front and rear and the fronts are also slotted and I fitted braided brakelines.

I have picked up some old school 7.50x16's with internal beadlocks that I am going to try and fit up without a bodylift. There are a few things that could help get these in without a bodylift or major cutting. I can get the rim offset changed, do Mike Hagen's front end widening mod and rear axle rotation, get the guard edges rolled, adjust the steering stops and do bumpstop extensions. I think with these options it should be doable as I am trying to keep it fairly low and stock looking.

Other plans over the next few months are a steel rear bar, a shaved rear diff which should gain about 1" extra clearance, full floater rear axle and rear disc brakes. I also have just picked up some Toyota driveshafts and hubs for the front end. I will also be replacing the plastic on the rockers with steel as I did on the lwb and making up an underbody protection plate so that if I don't clear something I can drag or slide over it. I want to fit a longer range fuel tank as the swb tank is pretty small. So far I have found one that holds 65ltr.

So far I have found one that holds 65ltr.

Is that a bolt in ? thats like 15 Gal tank, I want one.

Yes, it's a bolt in without a bodylift. They will make them even taller if you want to use the space created by the bodylift for even more capacity or you could have the mounts relocated lower to lift the tank for more clearance.  Price is AUD$650.

$650 AUD   
I think I'll get an ARB first

Morning CJ

     I was just giving rough numbers on the cam...stock if I remember right is
200 duration and .350" lift

     About 10 less duration moves the torque peak down about 500rpm or so and
increasing the lift .045" should increase the cylinder fill for more hp and torque.

     You will still loose a little off the top but it should not be much, and you should gain a pile at the bottom.

     I found that the 20% pulley only caused problems in heavy traffic if my wifes rig was constantly below 2000rpm for very long periods. You could beat that by adding an electric fan
to replace the stock one and you would gain a titch more power. Nother cheap mod.

     For the carbs, I built my own manifold, it's a PITA but not hard, mine is 6061-t6 aluminium
but you could also do it out of steel as weight isn't a problem with your application.

Check out the pictures on "pics of zaggy's engine" thread. If you want more let me know as I will be going out to the airplane when it warms up (-24C this morning).

Zag

Hi Zag,

I was looking at an electric fan to put in the other day but it hasn't been a priority. If you feel that it would compensate enough then I then I think I may just try the pulley.

Would love to see some more detail pics of the carbs and manifold setup as I can't enlarge the ones in the other thread.

I'm not to worried about losing a little off top end if it really has the goods up to 5000-5500rpm. What I don't want is a hole in the power at the beginning with the auto.

Hi CJ

     From my experience with my wifes I would think the electric fan would cover any
loose of airflow from removing the stock fan and going with the speed reducing pulley.
Besides loosing the stock fan will add a little back to the game.
     I tried out a tractor with a 1600/8 valve this summer that used a cam that
was
- intake 193|removethispart|@.050 lift and .396" lift
- exhaust 204|removethispart|@.050 lift and .396 lift

Man did that thing pull hard down low! Something in that range should be a good 4X4 cam and
it still pulled to 52-5400rpm...they were not that expensive for a regrind, about $200.00 CDN
my cost if I remember right (plus a bottle of bribery).

When things warm up and I can get to the airport I will get you some more manifold pics

Till then let me know how you make out

Zag

Hi Zag,

I've got access to a complete head off a 1298cc 1.3 that I can use to build without having more downtime than necessary. This means I can do the porting and cam and then just do a swap which would be cool. I would also need to replace the exhaust valves with the larger 1.6 valves. I'm also tracking down specs on the different headers available to me here. Big problem at the moment is trying to find a 3 speed auto that isn't $$$. And obviously I still need to sort out the induction side of things.

Here's a link to the 1298cc stock cam profile that I will have to work with.


http://ironbark.bendigo.latrobe.edu.au/~jeff/cam.htm

That's basically what I'm looking at. With the 3 angle grind what do think? 15/45/75? I
.

1.6 should have a 3 angle grind as stock. I forget what it should be but it is defined in the FSM

Hey CJ

     This is just off the top of my head...but as I remember the ports (both intak and  exhaust)
are smaller on the 1300. I also think that both valves are smaller. If you can I would recommend starting with the 1600 casting.

     We measured the 15-45-75 and a couple of others on the flow bench years ago and they
were all real close so what ever is good with the machine shop will be good for the engien.

     Rhinoman I think is right, the one listed is in the FSM. Back cut the seats though, it opens up the flow a little more.

Zag

PS

I'll check ou the cam profile later.

FSM shows 15 45, 60

Thanks, yes I know the FSM says that the valve is 45 and the seat is 15/45/60 but figured if I was doing any work in the head and getting bigger valves put in I could look at the angles and thought something like a 15/45/75 may have been a little better.

1.3 valves (mm)  inlet 36, exhaust 30

1.6 valves (mm)  inlet 36.3, exhaust 32.5

Didn't know the 1.3 had smaller ports. They have the same cylinder head volume at 32.2 cc.