what Year cylinder do I need from a subaru I am heading out to the yard tomorrow.  Let me know thank you very much.

what Year cylinder do I need from a subaru I am heading out to the yard tomorrow.  Let me know thank you very much.

Hey TIMMY!

This is a good question, huh?

-Eric

what Year cylinder do I need from a subaru I am heading out to the yard tomorrow.  Let me know thank you very much.

I may have an extra for you.

They are from Legacy's and Forester's with ABS.  READ:  must be ABS equipped.

Seems there is a little "recall" from Subaru.  A bad lot made its way into production, now all of them are being replaced because they don't know which cars the bad ones are on.

BUT, you can remove the piston and inspect the o-rings.  If they are shitty'd up, it's one of the bad ones.  If not, it's good and all of them come home.  Bob's been running a good "recalled" one for over a year with no issues.

Mine is "half" installed.

Guess I gotta finish that, eh Eric?

*responding from my Verizon PDA/Pocket PC phone.  This thing is the bomb!*

So whats the deal with the Subaru master?

*responding from my Verizon PDA/Pocket PC phone.  This thing is the bomb!*

UberGeek!

So whats the deal with the Subaru master?

Sammy M/C bore: 7/8"
Subaru M/C bore: 1-1/16"

Completely bolt in (same OEM)

More stopping power for bigger tires!

UberGeek!

More UberGeeks like me means more jobs for tech folks, right?

Sammy M/C bore: 7/8"
Subaru M/C bore: 1-1/16"

Completely bolt in (same OEM)

More stopping power for bigger tires!

What about Trackers and Sidekicks?

there has to be something else, are you changing the booster as well?   You have more psi with a smaller piston diameter.  if you press with 200 pounds, a one inch are would give you 200 psi, a one and a half square inch piston would give you 133 psi

You have more psi with a smaller piston diameter.  if you press with 200 pounds, a one inch are would give you 200 psi, a one and a half square inch piston would give you 133 psi

The bigger master cylinder pushes out more fluid into the same size space, that gives more pressure at the caliper.

The bigger master cylinder pushes out more fluid into the same size space, that gives more pressure at the caliper.

You both are kinda right.  A smaller piston will give you more pressure and a larger piston will move more fluid. So you need to find a middle ground.  "Peddle travel vs. peddle pressure."

So is the master cylinder change for people that are going to 4 wheel calipers and need the increased fluid?  I beleave a caliper needs less pressure
(because of the increased area of the caliper piston) and more fluid then a rear brake cylinder.  So the increased diameter would be desired.

To clarify.

This assumes a few things.  1) much larger tires and 2) rear discs to stop them.

The set up is currently on an 87 running 33" tires with rear disc conversion.  No adjustable proportioning valve.  Older style stock rear proportioning valve intact.

Am adjustable proportioning valve is needed, so it does not solve that.

The braking preformance difference is night and day.  The brakes now have a firmer pedal, less pedal travel and vitrually no fade during prolonged braking.  Stops the big meats on a dime.

We are in the process doing the same to a 1994.  This came with the front/back system instead of the earlier diagonal braking system of earlier years.  The stock proport valve is different that the earlier models, and appears to be adjustable (there's a bleeder valve and an adjusment screw).  We will experiment with this and see what happens and if a seperate adjustable valve is needed.

So is there one that fits a Track/Kick?
James (with 33s and rear disc brakes)

Bring out your dead! Bring out your dead!  

First Question, what is the bore of a stock sidekick master cylinder?

Second Question, does anybody know of any other master cylinder that fits sidekick boosters?

Thanks!

Good question, I'm going to start working
on the rear disk brake and full floater axle
for the Track/Kicks, if all goes well, the kit
to convert will be available.

The kit which is under R&D right now is
supposed to include, larger (bigger spline count)
rear axles, parking brake rear disk calipers, a
much improved addition to drum parking brakes.

There is a question as to weather there will
be lockout hubs, or a replaced flange axle to
eliminate the weaker stock axles.

What would you guys, and gals, as a group like to
see, just a full floater axle with the flange, or to be
able to unlock a hub in the rear an have a super
easy way to flat tow ?

Wild