So hey yall just a local boy from Fresno, CA, who just picked up a Tracker.  1990 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop, G16A 1.6L 8v I4, 5spd, LSi (auto front hubs, premium interior).  Bought at stock height, with:
235s on 15x7 black rockcrawler steelies
K&N custom filter on aluminum tube
Doug Thorley Stainless header
Hi-flow CAT
Turbo muffler
UGLY PURPLE FADED WINDOW TINT (in process of removing)
and stereo...inside creature comforts...w/e, it's meant for getting dirty, not a trailer queen

MY PLANS:
CALMINI 3" suspension.  ALL CALMINI skidplates, and Aftermarket4x4 gas tank skid.  Obviously tires (I am posting another new topic on this...tire size)
CHANGE out AUTO front hubs...either $75 AISINs from local junkyard or $180 Warn Premiums
CB Radio (going to try installing in dash below stereo)
And LockRights front and rear
Those four things are happening right away.  Long term (years to come): bumpers, sliders, snorkel?  And if I go up any higher and bigger tires and start using it for more serious stuff, maybe that 4.24 reduction kit...


SO MY QUESTION IS
SAFARI A HARDTOP: Summer is coming, and as I build this, I also want to make it one-of-a-kind and do something different...I'm already different from the rest since almost everyone either builds softtops or 4drs...rarely a 2dr hardtop.
ANYBODY ever done this?  I'm going to try to get Safarikick's doors, or do something like that.  That's an awesome setup he's got.  Props to you---thumbs up.  I can get a pair at a junkyard and do it myself if nobody makes and sells them.  My back windows hinge out for ventilation, and completely removeable with three screws.  So remove the back windows, find some half doors, that leaves the back of the hardtop in question...so my question for you guys is have you seen anyone...
remove the TALL back door of a hardtop, with the glass and everything...
and bolt in a soft-top tailgate (since it is a short height and no glass)
I can go to the local junkyard and test-fit one on my HT, but until I do, I wanna hear what the experience of the online Suzuki commnity has to say THANKS GUYS

i dont think the hinges will work on the tailgate. the upper hinge is located ON the c-pillar, where as the 2 door has the upper hinge located lower (below where the top attaches). im sure it can be done, but it's gonna take some welding and bodywork

That's what I was afraid of.  I have yet to physically LOOK at a soft-top hinge setup at the junkyard, and I know the top hinge on mine looks higher, I just wasn't sure if it was an optical illusion or not.  Maybe I could keep the upper hinge for the hardtop swing-door, and add another upper hinge, below it, for the upper part of the soft top door, and use the lower hinge for both?  OR:  maybe my local junkyards have a hardtop hatch I can cut down myself and just use it as it, without the glass and upper frame, but the hinges line up...ahhh that sounds more like it.

With 235's, I just kept my stock steelies (saved $$$) and they work well. 3" lift is WAY overkill for 29" tires. With some brands, you don't even need a lift at all. I'm using the OME lift, and like it MUCH better than that Calmini lift (the ride is vastly superior). AISIN are also vastly superior to Warn's. Keep with stock, they're cheaper / better / stronger. It's one of the rare areas where you don't get what you pay for.

Yeah, 3" is overkill for the 235s, but I don't plan on keeping those, that's just how i bought it, with a "street-tread" 235.  I want 30s or 31s, nothing bigger else I start pouring out more money and effort into gearing issues.  I DEFINITELY want to replace the factory AUTO hubs though, whether it be with Aisin or Warn or Superwinch or whatever it takes.  PROBLEM: I'm doing four final projects for school right now, and finals in two weeks.  I haven't even put this thing up on jackstands yet to look under it (i can't physically fit underneath it on a creeper!).  First thing is to take my tires off and start checking out those front hubs.  Need to check my brakes, etc...all the usual check-up on a 20-yearold car.

I'm still Pro OME (and trimming if needed), but it's for sure a personal preference thing. Unless you have the 3-speed auto, or toyota axles, there's really no gearing options available. It's the HUGE gap / shortcoming for kicks right now. I'm quite shocked no vendor is offering diff gears again. There's enough interest in them now, and people are paying a PREMIUM for the ultra-ultra rare diff gears that are floating out there.

the one main thing that keeps me interested in the calmini lift is that between BDS, OME, and all the spring and strut lifts out there, and all the spring spacer and strut spacer lifts out there, Calmini's kits are the only kits that come with differential drop brackets, and also the a-arms.  I know I could definitely keep the tires I have and do the OME lift but (my personal opinion) IFS systems are weak no matter what...and adding spring height without relocating the diff housing = more radical CV angles = breakage (even if it's long term).  and everyone saye OME rides so well...but it runs about $700 and I have gotten a Calmini price down to $891.  that's "my personal opinion" since it seems better designed than the spring lifts with the diff drop bracketry for long term lifespan.  plus I want to replace everything on the underside of my tracker, like bushings, shocks, struts, springs...and the 3" kit has all that too...

scratch that, calmini 3" now found to be $849.95.
http://car.etk.ru/!Tech/Lift/3inch/3_lift_kit.htm


I take the printed webpage to local 4wheel parts and they will match OR beat that price same with all the other things I'm buying if i buy through 4WP