Oh dear, I am at a Girl Scout meeting!
Can we pass on the moral lessons (as they won't have any effect on me) and actually post tech since the search button seems to be out-of-order?
Yes, MaD.72, there is a Santa Claus and, yes, many have used YJs to go SAS on Kickers. First, I assume you are gong to use Toys. If this is the case, then you've got several things to consider. One, what tranny will you be running? Why, you ask? It affects tire size. The 3spd auto runs 4.62 R&Ps, and gives you wiggle room to run 5.something Toy R&Ps to regear. Manuals and 4spd autos run 5.12s, which means its the 5.71 toy gears only, and that won't allow a large tire. Now, some 16v 2drs with Cali emission ran 4.30s, and you gain more wiggle room with them, but those ain't common at all.
Next, are you going to run S/F or S/R? Many go with S/F and a M/L-type shackle for ease of install. Extreme crawlers won't run a S/F set-up for a couple main reasons. S/R allows the axle to trail rearward upon compression, which makes going over things a little easier. But the main advantage to S/R is protecting the spring itself from damage. With S/F, eventually you'll punch a rock with the shackle, and it will move backward, with the net result of a bent spring. Not great, as springs shouldn't be viewed as a consumable item. S/R prevents this.
Back to gearing. What if your rig spins 5.12s in stock form? Well, you got an option. A "Kicker3"-type set up will put a Sammy t-case in the mix, and will reduce the high-range by up to 20%, depending on what gear set you put in it. The problem with that is the offset output from the Sammy t-case. Some run it fubar with a driveshaft at an angle that no matter what you do, you'll have vibes on the road. If this is a hitch-bitch, then no worry. If not, you can remedy this with an offset Toy axle, like what Sky sells. These are 3" wider than a stock Toy axle, and will require either 1.5" spacers each side of the front axle, or the IFS outers swap (best idea). Wider is better.
If you want to be able to steer PRECISELY on the rocks, you'll need a well-designed panhard bar. This should be the same LENGTH and ANGLE as your drag link, or it will be more of a hindrance than a help.
As with the need for a S/R up front, unless you want your rear springs to be consumable items, you'll need a well-designed traction bar (anti-wrap bar). If you run a straight shackle, then the bar needs only two rigid mounting points, one at the axle and one up near the t-case output (like spidertrax used to sell). If you run a M/L type shackle, you'll need one that has 2 mounting points on the axle and a shackle mount up near the t-case. Since the M/L will open and make 2 distinct arcs, a 2-pt solid bar will cause binding and prevent the M/L from opening completely.
RatAdapters will allow you to bolt up the Toy driveshafts. Long-spline driveshaft parts will be in order if you run a S/R up front, or an offset axle in the rear.
Now, your tag line is,
"It's not what you buy, it's what you built!!!" and your Sammy seems well built (1987 Sammi, 4.3l V6 eng, 700R4 Tranny, NP205 T-case, Toyota axle, and more...). I guess you built it yourself (or your tag line is WAY wrong), so you should be more than capable of taking the advice you got in this thread, along with the info from your searches
and start fabbing.
And to the rest of the skirts on this thread, take your own advice and actually post up some tech rather than just posting Rodney King-ish "Let's all get along" bull pucky. What hypocrites.
