Ok lets look at what can be logically done without opening her up.
First think of the engine as a complete system and not make single changes...ie big exhaust, keep stock aircleaner...not effective.
Second, what do you want it to do, that it isn't doing now? It's easy to say more power,but do you mean more in the same rpm range? Do you do a lot of severe off road...or just trail running?
Those questions asked FWIW heres what IMHO I would do with a stock1.6/8valve as a first step. (Assuming no water fording or deep muddin, just trail running and street driving.)
1) Damn good tune up, high quality wires, plugs rotor and cap...compression test etc make sure
everything is healthy.
2) New timing belt, retard cam mark 1 tooth (I've tried it and so have others makes a
difference, costs nothing)
3) 2" TBI Spacer
4) Low restriction aircleaner...like the one Prd2BCdn is trying out for me (it eliminates the
aluminum intake tube). Pics are on the forum for an example.
5) Good header with the proper square ports, tri y is probly best for off roading.
6) Full 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 exhaust with a quality muffler of your choice and a cat (same dia) if you
need it to keep legal.
7) Power time the engine, old school but it works and costs "0"
![Cool 8)](https://www.zukiworld.com/forum/Smileys/aaron/cool.gif)
Go synthetic gear lube in diffs, trans and t/case. Tried it drag racing and we found it made a
measureable difference in the 1/4 mile. (about a 10th in our 240Z w 4.37:1 gears, locked diff)
Best guess...this will take you to 85-90hp...maybe a little better. thats about a 7-12% increase is useable power and if you drive the same as you do now about the same improvement in gas mileage.
Will you feel it. Assuming your vehicle weighs 2500lb and stock hp is 80 thats 31.25lb/hp
These mods will drop your lb/hp to between 27.7 to 29.41. Thats like cutting between 150-280 lbs off your vehicle weight..you'll feel it.
If you don't use all the new power you should boost gas mileage as well (rarely happens cause everyone I know promptly uses all the power)..about 7%...if you are getting 25mpg you should jump to about 26.75mpg or a little better.
Whats it gonna cost........well I figure the tune up and timing belt don't count cause thats regular maintanance stuff. If you are a good scrouger and fab the aircleaner and TBI spacer, buy a Calmini or similar header and do the exhaust yourself....well under $500.00...if you're lucky and score some good deals maybe under $300.00.
Am I sure it will work? Well similar mods on my wifes 1.6/16v produced similar results to these and I've done these same mods to a bunch of our street drivers over the years and got similar results. Sometimes a little more by percentage, I can't remember getting any less by percentage.
why does it work? Because you are addressing the engine as a system, allowing it to get fuel and air in easier
and out easier, and one helps the other getting an appreciable net gain.
As far as "Wild" being wild about his combo, you bet. Does it make that much difference, done right for sure.
Think about the same 2500lb Tracker we talked about that is 31.25lb/hp stock, with "Wilds" turbo engine that same Tracker now has only 16.6lb/hp...thats like cutting the weight of the Tracker in about 1/2...now it's a rocket!
The reason you're not impressed with the PT comes down to the same thing...power to weight, you might have 55hp more but I'll bet you are hauling at least 800lb more weight..kinda defeats the purpose.
Hope that explains things better.
Electric superchargers....lets think this one through
Lets assume for sake of agrument that the electric supercharger is going to produce 7psi boost at 5500 engine rpm.
Thats approx 75cubic feet per minute...a compressor that moves 75 CFPM requires around 8hp if I remember correctly (direct drive). Now if an electric motor is 75% efficent that means the supercharger is now requiring about 11hp to run and the alternator has to produce the power. Now here my math and memory are pretty weak but 11hp is about 8.4kw and assuming 75% efficency for the Alternator I think that will end up being around a 20+ horsepower draw if our efficencies are that high (and I don't think they are) Now add the weight etc relating to an alternator big enough to produce 8.4kw and you efficeny drops furthur...and we haven't talked belt slip or anything else.
So in a
perfect world and not counting many other power losses in the system we are eating up 20hp...what do we get? Well 7psi is about 1/2 an atmosphere so if we get 80hp at 1.0
atmoshpere we should (again in a perfect world) about 120hp |removethispart|@ 1.5....less the 20hp it took to create the 7psi (1/2 atmopsphere)..so absolute perfect world, best case you would gain 20hp over stock.......add god knows how much weight and complication, that will dimish the net power even more...and we are assuming efficency levels that are high and not counting electrical transmission losses, belt slippages and a bunch of other energy eaters.
But what I hope I was able to demonstrate is....
"In our real world...the electrical power required and ineffiecencies would eat any hp gains"
Well those are my thoughts and opinions as best I can give them at 1:20am...hope it helped to explain things a little better (hope I didn't make too many math and memory errors).
Thanks
Zag