My front wheel Dr seems to be not working I put all 4 wheels off the ground with jack stands and put it in 1st and 4wd and the front wheels do not turn,the drive shaft turns to the front axle,is my axle broke? any way to test it ?

It might be that your hubs are not locking properly.  If you pull the hubs off you should be able to see if the axle is rotating.

Thanks drone I will give  that a try.

It's VERY common for the hubs to not be functioning properly. It's probably not seen any love (grease) for 20 years, and is "stuck" in the unlocked position. Pull the hubs off (it's not hard), disassemble, clean up with your favorite solvent / grease cleaner, then LIGHTLY re-grease it. I like to grease the parts down, then wipe off the access. This is something you should do every couple years (more often if they get submerged regularly, or are otherwise abused).

As said, after you pull the hubs, do the same test you did. If you see axle rotation, it's the hubs. If no axle rotation, it's the diff gears or front axle (not very likely).

You need to remember that if one hub doens't lock then the front is not going to turn. Take the hubs apart and grease them and like they said...lightly. After that if the problem is still there then take them apart one side at a time and manually lock the one side while the other side is locked too. They need both hubs unless you are running a locker.

Take the cap off the hub and the slide gear will come out with it. Turn the hub to lock and then match the slide gear so it extends out to lock. The re-insert it while in the lock position. If you have to push against that big spring then it's not locking. It should slide right in and the cap should pop on to get bolted.

I've been wheeling zukes for over 10 years and last year I had something weird happen. I'd lock both hubs and go up a hill...the 4wheel drive would work until I'd release the pressure on the pedal. I'd hear a click and then the front wheels would not pull. I manually locked the hubs and found the passenger side one wasn't engaging by itself so I took the gear off of the spring and pushed it in then re-installed the cap on top.

I slid under the vehicle and put a pry bar into the drive shaft yoke and applied some turning pressure to the drive shaft. As soon as I released the pressure I heard a loud click. Then there was no problem turning the drive shaft with the bar. I did this again to re-check my findings. When I took the problem hub apart the locking gear was backed off of the hub.

Why it did this I'm not sure...I replaced that hub with one from my LJ and it did the same thing. I took that housing out and replaced it with the original with no more problems. I took the bad one all apart and never found anything bent or worn out.

I take the hubs apart in the spring and in the fall....it's not a big job but it can cause you some issues.

OK I got the hubs off and was thrilled to see the axles spinning when in   4wd low, however I can stop the axle from spinning with a pair of pliers  so I am assuming the axle is broke.If I put the passenger hub on I can't stop the axle on the drivers side but If I put the drivers side hub on I can still stop the passenger side, do I have to take the whole differential apart to get the axles out? Thanks Mike

if you can put one on and stop it and the other one on and not stop it then you found the problem. when you have the one that you can stop it's the bad one. Try putting them on the opposit side and see if the problem swaps side.

IF you have one bad hub it won't work. When you install the good hub and then try to hold the open side and it turns/pulls then you have the bad hub off the truck. The power will always take the path of least resistance. Broken hub acts like having a tire off the ground or having low traction.....front wheels won't pull.

Change that bad hub and try to see if it works. take it apart, it's probably just stuck. I've only ever seen one broken hub in my 10 years of zukin, but we don't have rocks around here.

Change that bad hub and try to see if it works. take it apart, it's probably just stuck. I've only ever seen one broken hub in my 10 years of zukin, but we don't have rocks around here.

Thats was it the spring was stuck it is working for now but I am going to order some new hubs anyway,any suggestions warn? thanks zukimoo  and everybody that responded. Mike

I wouldn't waste the money....spend it on something else. Get them cleaned and greased and then just maintain them and you won't have any trouble at all. They are really tough and it's probably $200 or more for new hubs and you can find something else to spend that on.

x2 on rebuild. Unless you see damage in there, there's probably no reason to replace them. If you're hell-bent on replacing them anyway, get OEM replacements. They're much stronger than the Warn. Asin makes good stuff.

Anyone know a good place to get the hub gaskets,the auto parts store doesn't seam to have them.

I usually just use some instant gasket stuff and don't bother with the paper gaskets.  But if you want some just give Hawk Suzuki a call and they will hook you up.

Anyone know a good place to get the hub gaskets... 

Suzuki still sells the hub gaskets and individual small parts, so you should be able to get them from your favorite Samurai supplier. My local dealer ordered gaskets for me and they came in fairly quickly.
Hubs are often available on eBay, etc. Having a clean, rebuilt set on hand couldn't be a bad thing. But the doggone cone washers are over $5 apiece, so don't loose any. The Warn Premium #34581 hubs may be the best replacements, but the OEM Aisin hubs are definitely worth keeping, especially considering the price of the the Warns.

stay away from the paper gaskets. I stopped using them years ago when they kept letting water in. When you wheel the hub can move and even if it just a hair it will allow water to get in.

I use a flexible gasket in a tube. It will allow the hub to move and not leak. I've never sheared a hub bolt but if you had troubles with them it would be stronger to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. you could use the cone washers and it would make it really strong. Just got to make sure to torque the studs.

If you are worried about loosing a hub you can build one into your spare tire carrier. Take a front axle apart until you get to the four bolts right at the point that you can pull the birf out. Weld all that on your tire carrier and then you have a spare hub and bearings. If you want to get technical you could bolt it on and then you'd even have a spare spindle too.

My 4x4 trailor is built with a front samurai axle...right down to the center pot with the gears that I'm running. This way if I'm on a big adventure in the bush then I've got a complete front that can get me out. At first I had took out the center pot then realized that it was important too. Keep the hubs unlocked and the whole thing won't turn.

If you take something apart on the trail or you think that water might have gotten in then make sure to take it apart as soon as possible and remember to use grease that repels water. I use RedTEck grease and I can drop a newly greased bearing in dirty water and put it all together and it won't fail. Last year I put one in after letting it soak and took it out a month later with no signs of water getting anywhere near the bearing.

I had a bearing seize doing 80km/h on SOA with 31's/....we took a 25' slide totally sideways. The passenger had to change his shorts.

The Warn Premium #34581 hubs may be the best replacements, but the OEM Aisin hubs are definitely worth keeping, especially considering the price of the the Warns.

Warns break all the time. the Aisin's don't. Most people I know that use the Warns broke & replaced them within a couple years.