i have found on e bay motors a performance 1300 and a weber carb for what seems to be a pretty good price like $1800.00 or so am im better off sticking with the 1300 or is the extra 300 worth the money its gonna get a 6 inch lift and 33's also how much better is the 1600 over the 1300 and where i live i would need more low end (im in arizona) not gonna rock crawl yet just wanna make it better

What are you asking? are you getting a whole rig for 18 big ones?

get a complete used 2wd tracker for 300, use that engine over the 1300.  make a 4 inch homemade body lift and 2 inch spacers (or shckles) , presto, 6 inch lift for 300 more, still leaves $1000 for a 4:1 tcase.

your welcome

1800! to much Especailly since ur still going to have to buy gears.  I would try to rebuild the 1300cc u have and buy the 5:1 calimini crawler gears that will run 33s  Even with the 1600 u would still probably need gears.  ur probably goin to need stronger axles too.

there is no question which engine is better the 1600 is more duable and way more powerful. if u go with a 16 valve then that will be a real improvement. the price u r looking at paying is a bit much.

check out these sites: http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com/main.htm

http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/

if u go with the 1600 / 1.6 look under the tracker section they r listed for cheeper i don't know why but u still have to call and see what he has available.

1.6 liter 8 valve rebuildable engines $250
1.6 liter 8 valve 100K mile motors $450
1.6 liter 8 valve 70K mile motors $650
1.6 liter 16 valve motors $1000 on up

Complete 8 valve fuel injection systems with ECM and wiring  $450

For that price you can get a 1.6L installed.  

I say you keep the 1.3L and go with a 6.5 transfer case.  Then again, I have a 1.0L in mine and am satisfied.  As long as I stay off the highway.  

Depends on who built the motor.  Hugh Renolds in Bakersfield builds a great motor but your gonna pay for it.

Go with the 1600.  VW diesel, that is.  I have the NA with 31s and was getting 28mpg before my rebuild.  I rebuilt it last week and am checking the mileage now.

Even better, go with a 1.6 turbo and get 30+mpg with stock gearing and 33s.

I have no coil or spark plugs to go bad.  Maintenance is merely oil changes at 5k miles and valve lash check every 15k mikes.

Water is only a concern for my alternator.

Low end torque is incredible.  The only drawback to the na is top speed of around 60mph.  I've been told that I can get closer to 40mpg and 70mph if I drop to 235s.

Water in your fuel too  

I bet if you regear instead of
dropping tire size you could pick
up some miles per gallon and top
speed too

Wild

Regearing is definitely an option.  However, It would be more cost effective to just go with a turbo motor.  I have one lined uf for $500 but I'm thinking about using it in something with a longer wheelbase.

Trail Tough's 4.16:1 tcase gearset is the smallest high range change available, and it is too low to keep the 31s with this engine.  Going to 33s would split the difference and give me about 6% reduction from where I am now but it would also increase rolling mass and resistance.  So, even though I would gain top end speed, I would not, likely gain any fuel economy.

I believe that I can live with 235s for a while, while I build another, longer, ride to mount 33s on.  A Samurai on proper 235s is still quite capable.

Hey,

I want to swap out my 1.3L for a 1600 VW turbo.  Where did you get your adaptor plate for the stock trans?  Did you fabricate it yourself?  My Zuk is a 1987 with 4" SPOA.  Did you use a longblock or shortblock?  Could you use either in a Samurai?  Did you install all the extras like fuel/water seperator, special fuel tank and fuel lines ect...?  And where did you find your diesel?

Sorry for all the questions.  I really want to swap out my old 1300 and need all the help I can get.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Yahoo also has a group called samuraidiesel you could go there and ask a few q's.

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Apreciate it.