a locrite will never affect your turning, your tire wear, or break any thing as long as its working proper, a loc right is designed to spin freely when one tire needs to turn faster than the other (witch solves the steerig) a locright is designed to unlock and work like an open carrier automaticly. this steering issue is b.s. i have spooled front and rear axles and run bigger tire than mostly everyone and can turn fine, my rear end chirps when turning corners on pavement, i also run a 2 door tracker with 33" tires stock aluminum front carrier and drive every day on road with my locrites my tires wear completly normal, i have not broke a housing, i can turn fine, and it works great. i have had one issue with my hubs locked in i was making a tight u turn on road and my front locright failed to release causing a cv shaft to explode, a trip to the junk yard and 10 bucks later all was solved. get a locker you will love it!

The probable reason it exploded is the fact that the rear tires are turning in a smaller circle especially when turning sharp.  this causes the front drive shaft to want to spin at a different speed than the rear which is impossible if t-case is in 4wd.  thus the binding between the front and rear axles does not let the lockers disengage.  = broken CV.  thats why I don't have a locker in the front for road use on my DD. my thrasher for off road, locker in front=awesome.

I've had that bind problem too, but I didn't break anything. I pull out of 4WD on really tight, high traction turns now.

4 wheel drive is a no no on pavement i knew that but for some reason decided to do it anyway :'(

I still don't get why anyone would do lockrite in front... I know they're suppoed to let the outside tire turn faster, but again - it's my understanding it only does this when COASTING. If under power, the lockrite is supposed to lock up and act like a spool. I can't think of a time when I'd be in 4wd and coasting.

And - NEVER lock up on road. I've only done this while on snow - and going straight. When I turn, I stop, go to 2wd, then turn... then back to 4wd to avoid the binding problem. If in 4wd hi- range, you can shift on-the-fly with clutch in BTW.

The trail tough locker that I have is a lockrite in the front. I actually have lockrite's front and rear. When in 4 low and in real tight spots I'll have to put my T-case in 2 low until I get out of the spot. Or sometimes you can jack with throttle a little and get it to turn. If you do lock the front I would suggest looking into the 2 low t-case kit.

     Kevin

The trail tough locker that I have is a lockrite in the front. I actually have lockrite's front and rear. When in 4 low and in real tight spots I'll have to put my T-case in 2 low until I get out of the spot. Or sometimes you can jack with throttle a little and get it to turn. If you do lock the front I would suggest looking into the 2 low t-case kit.

     Kevin

Does the front ever unlock, or would someone be better off welded / spooled?

my case was the first issue ive ever had with the front sticking, other than the one time (and i blame the pavement) its never gave me fuss on the trail always turned nice and never failed me. i would buy a locrite again for a dailey driver, as for my buggy welded only

With manual hubs, you can always free one hub when in a tight turn.
If you don't mind the hassle of getting in and out just to do that...its not so bad.
Or just go ARB...

Amilla

Or twin sticks 

TWIN STICKS are great

yes they are but they still keep your front end locked together as far as a spool or welded, i cant wait till i can afford my rear disconect, i have line locks front and rear but can only independantly burn the rear for now