I have a 96 Geo Tracker, Auto.  This weekend I am putting a 1.5" spacer lift in with some used 30X9.5s.  Then I am taking it wheelin' next weekend.  What is the weak link?  What should I watch out for?  I would think the front CV shafts should pop first.  I wheeled a many a Jeeps, and broke a many a Dana 35s till I swapped in Dana 44s f/r.  So I dont wanna wait till I destroy something to know that it was weak to begin with.

Mine says Made in Canada by Cami Automotive INC.  Is there any differences with the Canadian models?  Or are they all Canadian?

your aluminum third

Whats so bad about the front housing?  I see alot of post about them being weak and I also see the 26 spline CV uprgrade.  But I never seen pics of them broke or how they break.  Just that it broke.  The front 3rd will break before the CVs let go?  Any pics of a broken one?  The torque just twist them and break the mounts? 

The Anvil and the newer Steel thirds are (other than solid axle) the only upgrades? 

What gears are in the auto?

Sorry for so many damn questions.  And thanks to the ones that were answered.

this is from a little wheel hop and 31's, if i did a trackick again a steel third would be first on my list

1. The Anvil and the newer Steel thirds are (other than solid axle) the only upgrades? 

2. What gears are in the auto?

Sorry for so many damn questions.  And thanks to the ones that were answered.

1. You can also use a Suzuki XL7 steel axle with a steel third from same.  Or at least the third is steel on that model...

2. a '96 automatic should have 4.62s.

Don't hammer the throttle in reverse,
Your auto trans I think is much easier
on the third member than the manual
and clutching, if you start hopping, back
off, the only time I broke a front axle, and
I'm running stock 89' 22 spline fronts, yes
even with the turbo, was when I let a wheel
hop and didn't back off

Wild

Full power and full lock and reverse can be a little more hate than it likes.

Check that the third member mounting bolts are properly torqued up. I have heard of several where the bolts cam loose and the housing broke. I found that on mine the spring washers broke. I lost one completely and the other was half gone, I put some new spring washers on with plain washers underneath. The axle broke next time out  :'( but I suspect it was already stress cracked. I didn't have another problem with the replacement axle.

I'm gonna try not to be too hard on it.  Nice to know the shafts hold up pretty well.  The biggest I am gonna on this is 31s.  Maybe some 5.12 gears from a 5sp  and say done with it.

if its a '96 then does it have the 4 spd auto? If so you already have 5.13's! You may have the 26 spline front axles as well. I wouldn't worry too much with your current set-up. I would say your biggest weak link will be landing on a rock or log and busting something underneath! Oh and also the rockers! 

if its a '96 then does it have the 4 spd auto? If so you already have 5.13's! You may have the 26 spline front axles as well. I wouldn't worry too much with your current set-up. I would say your biggest weak link will be landing on a rock or log and busting something underneath! Oh and also the rockers!

I got the 3spd auto.  I plan on doing a skid underneath.

Joe, I had a skid plate for a Ranger gas tank, and it worked well as a skid plate. Covers from the front 3rd all the way back  to the t-case. I lifted mine 2" and squeezed 31's under it. I've also tweaked here and there with the suspension.

You going to the Snoball run this year? If you do, and you are bring in your kick, weld the rear third! It will make a HUGE difference. I did so much shit I had no right to do with bald 30's and a welded rear. 

Hell, you saw me run the waterfall and couldn't belive my lil POS made it up there with out doing backflips. 

Also, I have beat on mine pretty good, and have yet to break anything. But when/if I do, I have a feeling it will be the front CV's or the front 3rd. Going toy axles sooner or later.

I have been running 33x12s for two years now, dont do full power reverse when youre stuck in clay.  you can do it forward, but I busted mine in a full throtle reverse after a year and a half.  I also hear bad things about auto locking hubs, I still have the originals in, love them, not having to get out and lock them, but again, watch the full speed front to back shift, if the wheels pins backwards, say like when one tire is in the air, it disconnects and on full power forward it'll clunk pretty good when engaging.  but I wouldnt change it.

You going to the Snoball run this year? If you do, and you are bring in your kick, weld the rear third! It will make a HUGE difference. I did so much shit I had no right to do with bald 30's and a welded rear.

Whos hosting it and when and where?  I'm gonna try not to whoop on the Tracker too hard.  I got the YJ for an all out beating.  At the Halloween ride I flopped really hard and took out my drivers window and tweaked the body pretty good.  Then at the last trail ride in Nov, I put 'er over really good and the windshield is cracked and took a window out of the hardtop and the top dont fit no more.  The body is too far tweaked.  So I am having fun with my bender and sawzall.  Put on a CJ front clip, stretching the wheelbase, swapped in a D300 clocked flat with a belly up skid, full 6 point cage, converting the rear to coils, buncha stuff.

do GV's have the same aluminum 3rd problem?   I noticed someone said XL-7's had a steel 3rd in the front end or whatever.