Question. Does anybody have a picture or a instruction sheet for putting coil spacer's on RRO does not send any with the spacers.. I tried the dealer for a repair book but they wanted like 90.00 and the parts store only have to 01.  I just want to be able to see what needs to be removed to get to them safetly.

Thanks

Its no big deal, front driver's side was the hardest.

Go here and read these directions which are for another kit but the directions to get the springs out is in there.
Its also for a X90 but the Tracker/Kick is the same thing.

http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/rromex90.htm

just stop when you get to the step that removes the spring.

Question. Does anybody have a picture or a instruction sheet for putting coil spacer's on RRO does not send any with the spacers.. I tried the dealer for a repair book but they wanted like 90.00 and the parts store only have to 01.  I just want to be able to see what needs to be removed to get to them safetly.

Thanks

We did the Wheeler's Offroad Spacers. It is very similar...

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050103/feature_wheelers_spacers.htm

Good Luck, Eric

That's too much work.  

Raise the truck up, put it on jack stands and remove the tires.

Put the floor jack under the control arm and remove the lower ball joint.

Lower floor jack, the arm will swing down, and take out spring.  Put in spacer and slide the spring into place.

When you go to jack the lower control arm back up you will probaly have too much spring pressure to get the lower ball joint up to the spindle.

Get a tie down strap, put one hook on the frame/axil of the floor jack.  Then go up and over the frame of the truck and put the other hook next to the other on the floor jack axil.

Now when you jack up the floor jack you will be pushing up on the lower control arm while the strap pulls down on the frame.

Install and tighten the lower ball joint.

That's too much work.  

Raise the truck up, put it on jack stands and remove the tires.

Put the floor jack under the control arm and remove the lower ball joint.

Lower floor jack, the arm will swing down, and take out spring.  Put in spacer and slide the spring into place.

When you go to jack the lower control arm back up you will probaly have too much spring pressure to get the lower ball joint up to the spindle.

Get a tie down strap, put one hook on the frame/axil of the floor jack.  Then go up and over the frame of the truck and put the other hook next to the other on the floor jack axil.

Now when you jack up the floor jack you will be pushing up on the lower control arm while the strap pulls down on the frame.

Install and tighten the lower ball joint.

Why not use the strap to keep the static height of the coil? That way, when you drop the lower control arm the coil won't expand as much.  Best way to do this probably would be to use plastic tie wrap on both sides of the strap so that it won't slip up the coil wound. I'd get as many coils as you can as this would keep the expansion minimum. Sort of a static coil compressor. Clear as mud?

To add, I'm not sure I'd try to loose the nut on the ball joint. It's attached to the ball socket of the joint. Without a pnuematic tool to 'quickly' loosen the nut could just spin with the ball socket without any pressure on it. This doesn't indicate a bad ball joint, just a potential to be one. I'd scrape the strut mount bracket so that you could reinstall it as it was before the spacer.

I haven't done this mod just yet, but I've got 3/4" spacer for the front and 1-3/4" spacer for the rear. I got a larger one for the rear as mine is a XL-7, carries more weight in the back, and actually tows a Scamp camper.

Dude, it's only a couple of more bolts to do it right (SAFE). After you have a spring pop out on you one time you wont mess with short cuts around them. They wont hurt you to bad, the spring that poped out on me, only shot completely across the shop (40' away) and put a dent the size of a basketball in the door.
Zig

Dude, it's only a couple of more bolts to do it right (SAFE). After you have a spring pop out on you one time you wont mess with short cuts around them. They wont hurt you to bad, the spring that poped out on me, only shot completely across the shop (40' away) and put a dent the size of a basketball in the door.
Zig

I know what you are talking about. I did this strap action when I had to work on my TTB-equipped Bronco. It slipped at first, then with tie wraps it stayed.
Those who tend to work on your own vehicles, hopefully, you'll take the steps to work on it in a safe manner. It's better to be safe and take an hour, rather than not.... and may take a life.

THANKS
Couple of last qestions?

1. I have auto hubs is it as easy as the picks show to take out the CV shaft.

2. taking my caliper off is no problem but taking the rotor off will be very harde due to the spacers I have for the wheels they were pounded on..

3. which plan looks better the one they did on the X-90 or the 2nd one. Sorry for so many questions but this is my first time doing something like this and don't wnat to screw up my new truck.

Thans agian

hhmm, i did mine(on a X90 though) and didn't touch the front ball joints,
jack it up, take off wheel, unbolt front sway bar, unbolt lower bolts on strut,, lower A arm until spring slides out....reverse to reinstall

oh yeah, and in order to get the A-arms low enough to install the coil springs, i  had to unbolt the axle shaft from the differential on driver’s-side, and slide the axle out on its splines on the passenger’s-side .

back is even easier,   raise car, take off wheel, unbolt lower shock, lower axle till spring falls out..

don't know why you would have to take off any brake parts for a coil lift. weren't in the way for me.

Thanks for all the help. Now all I have to do is get them they are on back order.

I've done many spring replacements on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.  I've never had a spring come flying out.  Some models might have a little spring pressure left, but just us a pry bar and pop it out of the cradle.

With the vehicle on jack stands/ or a lift and the lower arm supported with a floor jack.  You just ( of course stand to the side, not saying it won't ever happen to me) slowly lower the jack down untill the arm is down and the spring pressure is released.

The part about the strap was just to compress the spring using the control arm and frame aganst eachother with a jack.  I'd never try to keep the spring alone compressed with a strap.

I went back and reread the article archive about installing a coil spacer.  And no matter how you get the spring out when you install the spacer and spring it says to just jack up the lower control arm and bolt everything up.

I have the 3" Calimini lift and the last time I had the front suspension appart (a month ago) I still had too much spring tention to get the parts to lign up.  So on went the sprap to close that extra 1" or so.

If you have a harbor freight tool store by you, you can get a set of the threaded style external coil spring compressors for about 10 bucks.  Just make sure you get 4 small cheap pairs of vice grips too.  You need the vice grips to keep the spring compressors from sliding down the coil when you try to tighten em.  Just clamp em on the downslope side of the coil from the compressor's hooks and you're in business.  The compressors are much quicker to use if you've got air tools, but they're manageable without em.  Plus you can use them on struts on your other cars you might have if you need to fix those at some point.  Beats paying the auto part store 40 bucks for a deposit to "rent" them and you never have to worry about someone else having them out already when you need them if you buy your own set.  Heck, when you "rent" them from the parts stores you're just buying the set and they refund the money if you bring em back or making about 30 bucks on the set if you don't bring em back.

raise the jack until it starts to lift the trucklet,
then get a couple of buddies to get on the
bumper, now you can get the bolts in.