I want to run 235/75r15 will a two inch shackle lift give me enough room. I have 215/75r15 on right now

you can run 235's with no lift, if i remember correctly.

Most 235's will clear with no lift. Some 'big' 29" tires will rub ever-so-slightly on full lock & stuff, but it's no big deal. Shackle lift is a huge mistake - it'll rattle your teeth every time you hit a bump.

Where is it rubbing at?  If it's the bumper a little bit of trimming will fix that problem. 

It rattles my teeth now with no lift when I hit a bump. You mean it could get worse

I mean it will get worse, because it changes the geometry of the spring-flex for the worse. I believe the best solution for small lifts is the Calmini Shackle Reversal kit. Get it from someone OTHER than Calmini who stocks Calmini parts. The other vendors care about your business - Calmini doesn't.

http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=277516

You may want to consider getting new shocks too - odds are great yours are blown out, and contributing to the already inherently harsh ride from being such a light vehicle. Get the cheapest shocks you can find - the cheaper the better. You WANT lazy / cheap valving in a light truck. Cheap = Softer valving = good for us.

Oh ok thanks hadent thought about shocks didn't know the cheaper valving would be better thanks

Where is it rubbing at?  If it's the bumper a little bit of trimming will fix that problem. 

If I remember correctly, it was the frame & maybe the 'cab side' of the fender well. I may be getting my Samurai & Tracker mixed up? On both vehicles the rubbing was minor, rare & didn't do any damage so I didn't bother 'fixing' it. I'll take a minor & rare amount of rub over a lift any day. Low CG & stability off-road is a lot nicer than being unnecessarily high off the ground. But then, I'm a function over form guy.

If I due run a shackle reverse can I use a bolt on spoa or lift springs on down the road when I want to go higher

Some of my questions may sound dumb but I'm use to lowriders this is my first 4x4 and I'm trying to due stuff that I can build on later when its not my dd any more

If I due run a shackle reverse can I use a bolt on spoa or lift springs on down the road when I want to go higher

Calmini's got a kit that works with the shackle reversal. I'm sure there's other kits that will work equally well. Just remember real SPOA lifts costs thousands when you start adding things together. I firmly believe locking the front and rear diffs, and staying on 29" tires is better than 31" and SPOA. Others will disagree, but I have a SPOA on 31" & open diffs. The guy on 29" locked in the rear went places I couldn't. To add insult to injury, his rig cost less, and got better MPG.

It all depends on what you are building your rig for.  My brothers old Samurai on 28.5" tires and locked front and rear would go almost everywhere you pointed it within reason.  But my buddies Samurai locked FR with 31" and a SPOA would go further.  And my SJ-410 on 33" tires would go further yet. 

But yes, once you start lifting you do tend to add price to the vehicle.  31" tires mean you need lower gearing, fix the steering.  Then start getting more armor so you don't dent everything up.  A skid pan would be the first thing I installed, then some rocker guards.

Are you looking to build a hard-core wheeler or a soft-core/Daily Driver?

Probley closer to soft core/daily driver I want so if I go play in the mud or ride a trail. Not going over rocks all day

Lockrite locker & good tires are your friend. Here's a good article getting into the "hidden" costs of doing lifts 10th post down: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=20284

Going beyond 29" tires really sucks up the MPG and power of these already under-powered rigs. Gets expensive in a hurry too. I encourage everyone to wheel what you got, then go 29" & locker, then armor - if you want to go big after that, it'll be a good base to start from while you save up some $$$ to up-size.