I have an 88.5 tin top. I have a rebuilt motor I am going to put in it. My question is how do I deal with the air conditioning, do I have to discharge the system before I remove the hoses?? If so how do I do this my self? I am going to put it back on the new motor.

If you like the environment, take it to someone who can suck the freon out. If you don't care... just discharge it yourself at home... look and you'll see the valves. They're like big versions of what you use to fill your tires.

You should be able to keep the AC system intact while you do your engine swap.  Just unbolt the AC compressor from the engine......there should be enough movement in the rubber hoses that you can move the compressor out of the way, to get your old engine out and the new one in.....then just bolt the compressor back onto the new engine.....no AC discharge and recharge needed.

You should be able to keep the AC system intact while you do your engine swap.  Just unbolt the AC compressor from the engine......there should be enough movement in the rubber hoses that you can move the compressor out of the way, to get your old engine out and the new one in.....then just bolt the compressor back onto the new engine.....no AC discharge and recharge needed.

Yep.  Did that with my swap, until I got the V6 in and realized the Tracker's original compressor, although nearly identical visually, had mounting points that were about 2mm different from the XL-7's.  Oh well.

At that point, of course, I vented to the atmosphere and swapped the compressor and hoses out.

watch out just letting it out like that if somone reports you or the epa catches you you will be in big big trouble.  just a little fyi

I think most re-fill shops will drain your system for free.  Then you can convert it over to on-board air. 

Yep.  Did that with my swap, until I got the V6 in and realized the Tracker's original compressor, although nearly identical visually, had mounting points that were about 2mm different from the XL-7's.  Oh well.

At that point, of course, I vented to the atmosphere and swapped the compressor and hoses out.

Why not just fab up a bracket that will work with old A/C?

Quote from: beercheck on August 25, 2008, 12:42:46 PM

Yep.  Did that with my swap, until I got the V6 in and realized the Tracker's original compressor, although nearly identical visually, had mounting points that were about 2mm different from the XL-7's.  Oh well.

At that point, of course, I vented to the atmosphere and swapped the compressor and hoses out.

Why not just fab up a bracket that will work with old A/C?

Loads of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that the way I did it was way quicker and easier.

LOL - k. Guess it's one of those "have to see it" things. Did you just add freon, or did you get it vacuumed by a pro to get all the H2O / dirty air out, then charged?

 Ok, I have done what Skyhiranger said to do and unbolted the A/C pump and can move it out of the way. Also removed the radiator and fan. I wont be able to remove the engine until next week but now I wonder if there is going to be enough clearance to remove the engine and trans at the same time with the A/C condenser in place? Guess we will see next week.

Ok, I have done what Skyhiranger said to do and unbolted the A/C pump and can move it out of the way. Also removed the radiator and fan. I wont be able to remove the engine until next week but now I wonder if there is going to be enough clearance to remove the engine and trans at the same time with the A/C condenser in place? Guess we will see next week.

Hmmm....if  you can get the engine and tranny out as a unit it will take some creative maneuvering......easier thing to do (IMO) would be just to seperate the engine and tranny and remove them one at a time.  Why are you taking the tranny out?

If you try to take the engine and tranny out as a unit.....know that if the driveshaft (intermediate shaft) between the tranny and tcase seals the backside of the tranny and keeps the oil in the tranny from leaking out.  So you either need to....1) drain the tranny before you attempt to remove it, or 2) unbolt the intermediate shaft from the tcase and make sure it stays stuck in the back of the tranny.  It just has a slip yoke on the tranny end of it, so when the tranny is tilted, it will fall out, if not tied/held in place and the oil will run out.

If you take them out individually, you should be able to keep the tranny tilted with the front down to keep the oil from running out.

Hmmm....if  you can get the engine and tranny out as a unit it will take some creative maneuvering......

I ended up jacking the rear end of the truck waaay up.  Worked great, but I'm not positive I'd do it that way again.

If you try to take the engine and tranny out as a unit.....know that if the driveshaft (intermediate shaft) between the tranny and tcase seals the backside of the tranny and keeps the oil in the tranny from leaking out.  So you either need to....1) drain the tranny before you attempt to remove it, or 2) unbolt the intermediate shaft from the tcase and make sure it stays stuck in the back of the tranny.  It just has a slip yoke on the tranny end of it, so when the tranny is tilted, it will fall out, if not tied/held in place and the oil will run out.

True dat..

I also have a new rebuilt transmission to put in it. You can remove the engine and the trans as one unit (so I have been told) But I don’t know if it can be done with the A/C condenser in. If not then I will have a person drain the A/C and remove everything. If need be I will remove transmission from engine. 

Slip yolkes are the suck. If the rear end blows, I can't just disconnect the rear drive line, and drive home on FWD 

Slip yolkes are the suck. If the rear end blows, I can't just disconnect the rear drive line, and drive home on FWD 

Sure you can.  I keep the cap from an aerosol can and a large hoseclamp in the toolkit.  Before I had the custom driveshaft made, that's how I moved my truck from house to house.  Works like a champ (at least for the 02's automatic; the rear is perfectly round). 

I did, however, need to be reminded, only once, that "P"ark no longer does its thing when the rearend is disconnected..  At least not when the front differential is still air-actuated.  Motor off = no vacuum = no 4WD = hope you didn't park on a hill.