I get spark, and fuel. The injector just doesnt inject. I used a 112 or 194 whatever it is llight bulb (Marker) as a makeshift noid light. Its not getting power. I know they (1991) have comp problems. Does this sound like the infamous comp problems? All the fuses are good. Whats the fuel pressure supposed to be?

Oh god not another one.

I just spend almost 2 months trying to figure out mine, turned out it wasent the computer.
Check your TPS sensor, and that is is getting the proper readings.

and just because there is no injector pulse ( noid lamp fails) does not mean the ECU is bad.
in fact it can be:

''1 power bad to ecu
2 overload of main relay for ECU.
3: TPS output stuck high , telling ECU , enter unflood mode for ever. (stops all injection for ever until fixed)
4: no spark feed back. a the Noise supressor module.

the ecu is programme to stop injection as soon as it THINKS spark has failed.
this can be caused by:
bad coil primary
bad ignitor
bad ign supressure module (or unplugged)

so car runs on test fuel ?''

I quoted this from my other thread on zuwhairre. jtgh helped me through my problem, he is amazing with these little rigs!
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,98955.0.html

Read through that thread, he will tell you EXACTLY eveything to try before getting a new computer, proper reading for TPS etc.
One main thing to try is reading your codes, before you crank the motor, and AFTER you turn it over for 5-15 seconds, I got a different code after cranking, and that indicated it was my ignition fail safe switch not reading, was just a loose wire into the IFS.

Bryce

The capacitor on the computer that controls the injector has been repaired before, leaking and is a 50 instead of a 63.  So its being pulled and changed as we speak.  Will know real soon...

The capacitor on the computer that controls the injector has been repaired before, leaking and is a 50 instead of a 63.  So its being pulled and changed as we speak.  Will know real soon...

"50 instead of a 63"...........what are you talking about?  voltage rating?

Yea, ovoltage rating.  Still wont start, the cap was very obviously leaking and bad or starting to go bad.  The TPS checks out good.  The TPS is grounded properly (Pin D) and resistance is 4300.

There are no caps (at least not electrolytic caps) rated at 63 volts in a samurai ECM .  They have all been 50V caps in the ones I have worked on.  Not that it hurts to use higher rated caps....it just really isn't necessary.

There are no caps (at least not electrolytic caps) rated at 63 volts in a samurai ECM .  They have all been 50V caps in the ones I have worked on.  Not that it hurts to use higher rated caps....it just really isn't necessary.

Friend of mine did the work, the diagram he used said 63.  I'm kinda clueless to the computer internal crap...  Kinda just taking his word on it.  Will it hurt?  Or is it just overkill?

I am also sorta unfamiliar with Zuk's in general.  This is my first one.  I keep hearing about an igniter and Ignition Fail Safe Switch.  What/Where are they?

Quote from: Skyhiranger on June 12, 2009, 10:26:55 PM

There are no caps (at least not electrolytic caps) rated at 63 volts in a samurai ECM .  They have all been 50V caps in the ones I have worked on.  Not that it hurts to use higher rated caps....it just really isn't necessary.

Friend of mine did the work, the diagram he used said 63.  I'm kinda clueless to the computer internal crap...  Kinda just taking his word on it.  Will it hurt?  Or is it just overkill?

I am also sorta unfamiliar with Zuk's in general.  This is my first one.  I keep hearing about an igniter and Ignition Fail Safe Switch.  What/Where are they?

As I said, it doesn't hurt to use higher rated caps.
The ignitor is the silver box behind the coil. 
I don't know of an actual fail safe switch.  I believe what that is referencing is a circuit within the ECM.
My bet is the ECM.  Have your buddy check the traces on the circuit board around all the caps (and replace the other 3 electrolytic caps, if he hasn't already).  When the caps leak, they eat through the protective coating on the circuit board and then eat through the copper traces.  There is usually a hairline crack in one or more of the traces (or between a trace and a circuit board component) that can't been seen.....he will need to do a continuity check with a digital multi-meter or continuity tester, on the traces around the caps, to find the breaks so he can fix them.

Is there a way to test the igniter?

and that indicated it was my ignition fail safe switch not reading, was just a loose wire into the IFS.

What/where is this?

I called a few autoparts stores about the Suppresor and Igniter.  They dont know what I'm talking about.  Dealer?

And...  Should the injector have constant power?  Constant power with a negative pulse?

I am the said friend.   

Going from a guide I found elsewhere (can't find the link) there are 4 caps that should be replaced.  I did the easy two first. 

The large cap in the corner of the board next to the green plug was definietly leaking from the bottom, however tested out okay with my fluke.

Those two that I replaced look (to me) like they've been replaced before.   They were rated at 50v where the diagram I found called for 63v caps.  They also are a newer style with the relief indents in the tops.

I brought the ECM back home last night, gonna replace the other two caps tonight and see what happens.


That said, is the noise suppressor the little black peice with a 3 wire connector back by the ignition coil?  Two brown wires and one black wire going to it.   

The ECM board looks okay, no obvious burns or corrosion either for what it's worth.