I have a 87 Sammi that I have to pull the head off of to replace a "race cam" with an OEM cam to get it to pass emissions.


However, I also have a 90 Geo Metro 4 cycl 1.3L TBI that I've torn apart, stealing the wireing harness, ecu, and throttle body off of.


I'm wondering, after doing some research, if it's worth it converting to TBI.


Currently the zuk has a Webber Carb.



I've Identified the following on the ECU's wireing harness, and hope that they are *enough* to get the car running and keep the ECU out of "Limp Mode":
-Oxy Sensor
-All throttle body sensors
-Air Temp in the air filter housing
-Oil pressure (isn't this for the gauge and not the ecu?)
-Coolant Temp (2 plugs on the housing, however only one identifed on the ecu's harness)
-Dist - would I need to swap the one out of the geo?
-VSS - I read this is on the back of the ECU for the metro? I'm hoping this is not true.... this may be a stopping point for me if it's the case - sounds like way more trouble then its worth.


I also know I'd need to get an external fuel pump, rig up a return line... etc.

I'm wondering, after doing some research, if it's worth it converting to TBI.


Currently the zuk has a Webber Carb.

I think it'd be worth it for the reliability and the off-camber stability/better running.

-Eric

I with Eric on this one. If you have the time, I don't really see a downside to converting to TBI.

Well you can do it but do you really want to?

I'd ask myself a few questions before going down this path.

1) Is there a problem with your carb with the type of driving you do now?
    (if there isn't why change it?)

2) Do I really want to invest the time effort and money in creating a "1" of a kind system?

The Sammy engine and the Metro engines are different

The Sammy is a G13A series, smaller bore, longer stroke, taller block than the Metro G13B.

Yes the head will swap but you will need to use a Sammy cam and distributor drive set up or it won't clear the firewall.

You will need ALL the EFI bits, manifold, TBI unit, all sensors, ECM (ECU), complete harness and a fuel pump with return system that you can adapt.

Then you will need to adapt the guts of the Metro distributor to fit the Sammy distributor housing.

When it's all over what have you got that is better than what you have?

If you do want to go to TBI then (In my opinion) save a little longer and do a 1.6/8valve swap.

It will be very little more work, a little more expense (adapter plate) but you wind up with a big jump in power as well as getting a proven TBI system that you can get parts for when you need them.

Just some thoughts to chew on...

Zag

VSS is in the speedo head, Trail Tough can fit one into the Sammy speedo head so it shouldn't be a showstopper. The distributor issue depends on what type of sensor the Metro uses, you might be able to reuse the Sammy dizzy or use a dizzy from an EFI Sammy.

Well you can do it but do you really want to?

I'd ask myself a few questions before going down this path.

1) Is there a problem with your carb with the type of driving you do now?
    (if there isn't why change it?)

2) Do I really want to invest the time effort and money in creating a "1" of a kind system?

The Sammy engine and the Metro engines are different

The Sammy is a G13A series, smaller bore, longer stroke, taller block than the Metro G13B.

Yes the head will swap but you will need to use a Sammy cam and distributor drive set up or it won't clear the firewall.

You will need ALL the EFI bits, manifold, TBI unit, all sensors, ECM (ECU), complete harness and a fuel pump with return system that you can adapt.

Then you will need to adapt the guts of the Metro distributor to fit the Sammy distributor housing.

When it's all over what have you got that is better than what you have?

If you do want to go to TBI then (In my opinion) save a little longer and do a 1.6/8valve swap.

It will be very little more work, a little more expense (adapter plate) but you wind up with a big jump in power as well as getting a proven TBI system that you can get parts for when you need them.

Just some thoughts to chew on...

Zag

Answering in order:

1) as of right now it doesn't run, need to swap in the OEM cam to get it to pass emissions... my buddy put in an aftermarket cam with way too much overlap -- so right now, I don't know if there is a problem.... would just mean however taking everything apart once vs twice.

2) It's not my daily driver.....  however I didn't realize the engines were *that* different -- I would, however, just be swapping over the EFI system, not the head or the intake manifold.  I picked up a running metro with major wreck damage for $150 -- not a bad donor car.

3)

The only "logical" way to do it ,in my opinion, would be with the intake.

Saves making adapters and finding places for many of the sensors, saves a lot of work.

Seems a waste though to go through all the trouble of swapping stuff around to wind up a stock sammy cam back in.

Lotta work..........

Zag

The only "logical" way to do it ,in my opinion, would be with the intake.

Saves making adapters and finding places for many of the sensors, saves a lot of work.

Seems a waste though to go through all the trouble of swapping stuff around to wind up a stock sammy cam back in.

Lotta work..........

Zag

It's the same intake manifold, that's what I don't get about your statement.  The ONLY difference is that the radiator outlet is on the opposite side from the sammi's -- all the other sensors are the same, and would swap into the sammi's manifold.


Plus, the added benefit of not tuning a carb... have I mentioned how much I hate carbs? 


I guess the big part right now, Is I need to get ahold of a ecu pinout for the sammi



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ETA: Called the buddy I bought the sammi from on my lunch hour to inquire about the CAM that's in it... i forget the exact name of the manuf, but it's the "torque" cam he said.... appairently a few people have had problems passing emissions with it when carb'd.... maybe fuel injection would help?