Lookin' good!  Do you have the alternator mounted in place?  If so, how close is it to the front diff mount?  I tried to get mine as low as possible, but still ended up higher than stock.  Hence my reason for the body lift...

Keep the pics coming!  Love to see it when people DW (do work).

I haven't installed the alternator, or ps yet.  I noticed that your alternator was close, so i removed the diff mount for now.  I will replace later.  Also following your lead for motor mounts, was planing on using the 05 mounts, but my engine mounts set in middle of frame, so 05 's will be too low. 
Didn't get much accomplished today, always something else needing work.

I worked on the Tracker all day, but gains were slow.  I raised the motor and put the front diff back in, without the two mounts (using jack for now).  Lowered the motor back in place, at least as low as it would go.  Welded the bottom side of motor mounts in place.  I will weld the top side when I pull the motor (hopefully) one last time.  Not much clearance between pan, crossmember, and diff.  I will definitely have to do some hood work.  If body was off, I would have done a body lift, or frame chop & drop, body is not off so hood work it will be.  Have my old alternator ready for adaption to its new spot, will be able to use the 2.7 mounts, and drill out my alternator holes, or sleeve the 2.7's holes.  I tried to use 2.7 mounts for my PS pump, but could not make it fit, so will be modifying my old mount some more.  There is room for my pump where the AC pump would sit.
I did not have a camera today, but doesn't look much different than it has for the last week.
The front drive line fits just fine.

When all is said and done I wanna see a video of it in action! and of course pics...

I had to install a new water pump, and modify the tc, so everything is back out.  Motor mounts are welded in place, moved the ps diff mount, installed new mount points on my steel diff, and  I am almost ready for my final install (I hope).
 
I have converted the electric shift transfer case to a manual shift.  I ended up using the center of the 93 tc (dropped the 2005 electric shift tc and cracked the forward drive housing), and installing the heavier gears in it, then using the larger tail shaft, and heavier input.


I had to change out the two shift rods, so the manual shift had proper contacts for shift lever.


Now it looks like this.


Still have to do wiring conversion to do once motor is back in place.

I moved the right frame diff mount back about 1 1/2 inches for clearance by the alternator, also modified the mounts on my diff so I can use stock hangers on both sides.  I may build steel hangers later, but thought the stock ones were stronger than my modified ones.
New motor mount, and moved brake line.

WOW you've been hard at it!  Good stuff!  I now have clearance issues with the steering shaft and the exhaust manifold...   I knew it was gonna be close, just not that close.  So I think I've got to change the upper universal joint. oh well.

Two steps forward, one step back.
I have been doing lots of work, but gaining little ground. 
I have alternator mounts, and alternator in place.  Took two trips to NAPA to get correct size belt.  Power steering is in place,  two trips for ps belt were not enough.  As I am going to start using my old radiator to see if it will work, I had to modify the outlet lines to put hoses in right place.  I added a 1/4" spacer between the outlet line and block to create clearance for bolt holding inlet line in place.  I was then able to turn the outlet over so it would exit to passenger side, where radiator inlet line is.  I cut off the wrap around line, so I could use old radiator outlet hose.  Then I ran a brace from radiator outlet line (that I cut off) to a hole on alternator bracked.


There is more clearance for alternator than it looks, bad angle.


Power Steering is close, may have to bend outlet line a little more for clearance.


My plan is to route engine wiring behind intake and into same hole the 93 uses for engine wiring.


After filling motor with oil, the pan develops a leak.  There was not a pan gasket on motor, so I tried using silicone.  After retightening it tonight, I will see if I need to pull it and install the lower pan gasket (*lots of * words).
Have to install a 90 degree fitting on my air line to diff.  Very little clearance.
Been studying wiring, but have not started anything.

Looks great!  And coming along well too!  I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long.  But it all comes together one item at a time.  So you're gonna have to cut up the hood?  Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there?  It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.

Looks great!  And coming along well too!  I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long.  But it all comes together one item at a time.  So you're gonna have to cut up the hood?  Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there?  It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.

My plan is to get a 16v hood (they have a slight raise) and cut that back almost all the way, then raise it what ever it takes and fair it in.  Hopefully it will be similar in appearance to my 06 Silverado Duramax.  I have a beat up hood to practice on.
Of course as you know, that is way down the line.  This 2-3 weeks project has not even got close to seeing an end, after months.  Body lift, or SAS would have been much faster, as clearance has been my biggest issue.

Quote from: muskegtracker on March 11, 2010, 08:46:16 AM

Looks great!  And coming along well too!  I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long.  But it all comes together one item at a time.  So you're gonna have to cut up the hood?  Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there?  It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.

My plan is to get a 16v hood (they have a slight raise) and cut that back almost all the way, then raise it what ever it takes and fair it in.  Hopefully it will be similar in appearance to my 06 Silverado Duramax.  I have a beat up hood to practice on.
Of course as you know, that is way down the line.  This 2-3 weeks project has not even got close to seeing an end, after months.  Body lift, or SAS would have been much faster, as clearance has been my biggest issue.

Yeah, it's pretty tight everywhere, even with the body lift!

I made a cork gasket for lower oil pan (Napa gasket $27), lowered the oil pan 1/8", decreased the clearance with the tapered pan WHICH I DID NOT NEED.  Removed the front diff again, and made new outlet for the ARB line lower.  Now need to get a 1/4" block plug w/ allen wrench fitting to plug old hole.
Having drive line shortened and XL7 universal end put on.  New drive line will be 1" longer than needed, so rear axle will shift back 1".  Will probably 4 link it at same time.
Had the radiator mounted (wrong one), not much to change out, but another step back.
Drone 637 got me much better seats to install when I get that far.

Niceeee.  I wheel at Walker Valley occasionally.  I just sold my samurai and got a Geo Tracker.  Just wanted a different direction in project. 

Ive been thinking about using the sami axle for my front.  You mentioned Machine the part to get the STUB to go all the way in??  Do you mean the lips inside the sami carrier? 

You have to machine the inside of carrier main body (where bearing slips on) so the stub axle will go all the way in (larger diameter).  Or, buy one, already machined (Calmini , Hawk, or Trail tough was carrying them).   I live out in BOW, Wa. just north of Walker Valley, so if you are in the area, we could discuss what I did.  And what not to do.

I have been working on wiring, and trying to find wiring connectors for the Transmission Control Module.  The !|removethispart|@$|removethispart|@!$~~$ digital FSM for 2001 to 2006 XL7 is not giving me consistent information.  So I found a 2005 FSM for the XL7 which matches the motor year.  It should be here end of the week.
Just finished installing one of the newer seats for the Tracker.  Finally something went smooth all the way through. http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/install-new-seats-93-tracker/

Also I tried putting the hood on.  It will take some modifications (which I tried on an old hood) and I think will look impressive.  Now I need to find a good 16 valve hood to modify.

You have to machine the inside of carrier main body (where bearing slips on) so the stub axle will go all the way in (larger diameter).  Or, buy one, already machined (Calmini , Hawk, or Trail tough was carrying them).   I live out in BOW, Wa. just north of Walker Valley, so if you are in the area, we could discuss what I did.  And what not to do.

I just checked the stub and see what you meant.  Now I understand.  I have a few front sidekick carrier, I was thinking about doing some drill pressing so that I can be allowed to use 4 pins sami locker inside the carrier.  Because the maching the carrier would probably take longer than drilling couple more holes.......... We ll see how that goes.  Ill be at walker valley area sometime next month.  Got other Rig to wheel?