I like the rockers and bumper. Nicely done

Thanks, they are functional too.  I built the rear bumper also, in another write up.

With 4 door springs and 2" coil spacers my springs have a lot of bow in them, and when 4 wheeling my brakes have started to disappear at times.  So I decided to raise one side of the spring pads to square up the springs.
Springs before modification


After removing the A arms I set a spring in the pad and used it as a guide to torch cut 90 percent around the outside.  Then turn over and cut around the tube coming out the bottom of spring pad.  Driving the tube up into the bottom of A arm, turn over again and pry the cut up 30 degrees or so, and clean up the torch cuts.


I took a heavy duty washer and welded it over the hole from the post inside the spring pad.
  (I tacked the top, and did a full weld on the bottom.)  Then drive the spring pad back down until the post is seated on the washer.  I rolled a piece of 1" X 1/8" flat bar around a 4" pipe and cut to make about 3/4 of a circle.  Using a C clamp to hold the spring plate in place I drove the flat bar (semi circle) around the raised spring pad like this.


The upper edge was raised 1" doing this.  I then welded everything up.


Reinstall everything and end up with about 1" of lift.  This is how my coil springs set now.



Not needing more lift, I removed the 2" spacer before reinstalling everything.  I lost 1" of lift total, so cut the spacer down to 3/4" and reinstalled.  Presently I set 1/2 inch taller than before the modifications.  I have much better clearance for the brake calipers.

Wanting a steel front housing to put a locker in, and having a empty Sammi rear housing just setting there, my brain just said you can do that.  So I have started to convert a sammi rear end to a front end for my tracker.  The short side even has the same size bearing housing as the seal, so just shorten it up a little.
I took the angle grinder with 1/16" cutting wheel and got started.


Then I cut the flange off the end of the tube (cutting back far enough that there was just room for the seal).  Next I cut the rest of the tube off, leaving 3/16 of the inner tube (as the stop for the seal), welded these two together.

I installed a diff. into the housing, put an old seal in the new end and put it on a short side cv.  Sliding the cv and new end into the housing, I tacked the new end into place.




I cut a hole in a piece of 3/16" plate, slipped it over the new end, tacked it up and trimmed the edges back to conform with the housing and welded it up.  I Installed the seal again and test fit appears good.

This is what the short end looks like.


I hope to get started on the other end tomorrow.

Got a good start today, until I ran out of wire.

First thing I did today, was cut off the bearing housing at the weld.  Then I tapped out the short section of axle housing, and cleaned up bearing housing.  The tracker bearing fits into the housing very snug, just like it should.  I will need to get a special seal, because the bearing housing steps up larger after the bearing (at least one seal, and the bearing will be stock). 


After removing all the brackets on housing, and cleaning up the weld area, I cut the long side to appropriate length.  I then installed the bearing into bearing housing, and put bearing housing back on diff housing, and installed the axle.  Fit on this looking good.


After tacking bearing housing in place I removed the axle.  Bearing comes out with the axle, as I did not try to make a snap ring notch to hold it in.  As I stated before, I will have to get a seal sized to fit hole.  Just finished welding the bearing housing up, and ran out of wire.  So here is where it sits.


It looks bigger, and longer than the aluminum case.  But, the axles go all the way into the diff., so couldn't make any shorter.  I will measure the length from axle to axle on my running tracker (when it stops raining).

Tomorrow make and install mounting brackets.

Nice fabbing! everything looks good, very creative on the front diff action.

looks great. Thanks for all the good ideas.

Decided that instead of putting taller shocks on we would just raise the lower shock mount several inches.  This allows us to keep the lighter duty shock for a softer ride and gets the mount out of the way of rocks and other obstructions.

Since the original shock mounts are 1.5" across we hunted through the spare metal bin and found some 2x4 steel, just the right inside diameter.  First step was to cut the steel into the proper shape for replacement lower shock mounts.



Next step was to cut out the shorter end to create an open back for the shock mount.



Once that was done center punch and drill the holes for the shocks.



Clean up the edges with the grinder and set it on the axle to get an idea what it will look like when mounted.



The next step was to cut off the existing mounts.  Then measure the distance to the shocks at the top of their travel and the distance to the bump stops.  You want the shock mount to leave you at least 1/2" of travel from the top of the bump stop to shock bottoming out.  Once you know your measurement move the shock down, slide the bolt through the shock mounts and use a clamp to hold everything in place so you can tack the mount.  Then remove the shock and weld it in place.



We then added an additional brace on top of the new shock mount just as added insurance.



Paint some primer, make sure everything still bolts up properly and you are done.

  I really like the DIY attitude!

I had the same thought for the front end.  Still have the sami rear end in the back yard.

I had a Anvil on order for so long I decied to make my own, and then it finally showed up.  So I never did it.

Good job on you mods

To get the sammi diff. to work for Tracker axles there is some machining on one side of the diff. that needs to be done.  I am having the lid side turned to the same depth/size as the tracker (so the stub axle goes all the way in).  Other than that I have all the parts for install. 
With the temps in the teens, it may be after Xmas before I get it done.

nice work on those rear shock mounts.
stock location is begging to get smacked.

nice work on those rear shock mounts.
stock location is begging to get smacked.

That was our thinking too.  It also gives a little more droop.  Of course now I have to look into the top mount for the three link.  I hear it doesn't like much drop.

Installed an ARB into my modified steel front diff today.  There was an indent in the back of the steel housing that I had to bend back (making it round same as the rest of the back housing).  I thought that it belonged there, but the gears objected.
After getting everything up in place, it appears that I now have to take the diff apart and cut the oil return off the bottom of the pinion housing.  As the trackers do not have this return track, it should not be a problem.  I thought that I had clearance because I have lowered the cross member, but would have to raise the diff back to original height (causing CV problems).
Another problem I encountered was extending the vent to get it away from the diff mount causes it to run into/up under the motor mount.  (Not noticeable when the motor is out.)  I would recommend moving the vent, or using much smaller line.
I'll take some photos or the oil passage modification as I do it.

on the rocker repair . i have not done this yet . but just some info .on the back side you can buy a glue that is used to install qtr. panels. this stuff is as strong!!! its made by fusor. the only draw back is you cant paint over it. roll on bed liner paint will stick.

on the rocker repair . i have not done this yet . but just some info .on the back side you can buy a glue that is used to install qtr. panels. this stuff is as strong!!! its made by fusor. the only draw back is you cant paint over it. roll on bed liner paint will stick.

I don't think glue will work.  The metal does not overlap, so you would only have the thickness of the body metal to hold to the tubing.  Also you would want to have a flush fit for both runs, and my cutting isn't that good.  I recommend welding.  If you do it let me know how it works.