When you are in 2wd the locker will feel like an open diff. Thats why people want a 2 low option. This way they can drive slow and turn easily.

Mike

So what you are saying is that even if you have a locker in the front axle,when in 2wd, you have power only to the rear axle.So if you have manual hubs at front,you unlock them and the front locker-axle is neutral.If I got it right ,this way I believe a 2wd low helps.Its not like 4WD Low but its helpful.Thanks
After upgrading to Explorer CV set up,did you have any problems/damages with them?

Just thought I'd put my 2cents in.

I run ARB's.  When I hit the trails I usally lock in the rear, unless it's really twisty, and leave the front open.  For the most part I can't tell when I'm in 2wd are 4wd as far as stearing is concerned.  When I come up to an obsticle I just push a button and now I'm locked front and rear.  Once I'm through I push a button and the fronts now open.

I've heard the lame excuse about "Now I have to think about locking up the front".  It's no different than remembering to put it into 4wd.  Once you get use to it, it becomes automatic.

P.S.  Another bonnis is that you now have "On board air".  It's not fast but it's come in handy with my Jeep friend on the trail.  

So what you are saying is that even if you have a locker in the front axle,when in 2wd, you have power only to the rear axle.So if you have manual hubs at front,you unlock them and the front locker-axle is neutral.If I got it right ,this way I believe a 2wd low helps.Its not like 4WD Low but its helpful.Thanks
After upgrading to Explorer CV set up,did you have any problems/damages with them?

Even if the hubs are locked in it will still turn easy, as long as its in 2wd.

As far as the Explorer shafts, I dont use them. I am using  the drivers side 95 Nissan Maxima V6 5 speed w/o Antilock. The concept is the same. However,the reason I didnt write the artical on those is because because they only fit on the widened front setup I have, they are rare, and There is no room for error durring the build. 1/4 inch off and your rare shaft is trash. I only built one set of Explorer shafts. The guy running them has kind of put wheeling on the back burner so unfortunately I dont have any long term report for you.


Mike
Mike

I'm with lil_truck, I'm running front and rear ARB's, just locked when needed. Alloy housing but will go steel if I break it.

Ive brocken 2 alu 3rd members ,im now going to steel 3rd member 26 spline axles and a lockright locker,is it better to upgrade the alu housing as well?Also how easy is it to break the cv's?are the xl7 cv's maybe not stronger?

I busted 2 of the 3 bolts out of the passenger side mount in reverse. I moved the housing back into its position and did the pinion mount mod Mike did. I have been out wheeling twice since then with no problem,even with only 1 bolt holding the passengerside mount  .. I didnt have any spares at the time so I went on wheelin.

Later,
Bill

yes but the passenger's side casing mount (the 3bolt one) remains a weak point,doesn't it ?

Even if the hubs are locked in it will still turn easy, as long as its in 2wd.

As far as the Explorer shafts, I dont use them. I am using  the drivers side 95 Nissan Maxima V6 5 speed w/o Antilock. The concept is the same. However,the reason I didnt write the artical on those is because because they only fit on the widened front setup I have, they are rare, and There is no room for error durring the build. 1/4 inch off and your rare shaft is trash. I only built one set of Explorer shafts. The guy running them has kind of put wheeling on the back burner so unfortunately I dont have any long term report for you.
Mike
Mike

O.k thanks.So what should I try to do to strengthen the CV'shafts ? I think the 26 spline ones are o.k for the sidekick but I would like to have stronger ones.Go for the Explorer CV set up and see how it goes?

Ive brocken 2 alu 3rd members ,im now going to steel 3rd member 26 spline axles and a lockright locker,is it better to upgrade the alu housing as well?Also how easy is it to break the cv's?are the xl7 cv's maybe not stronger?

Well I did get the Anvil just to forget the whole case of breaking the front casing again...I just cant stand having the same kind of damage twice if there is a way to avoid it ... Same goes for the stock 3rd member.I replaced it with a Grand Vitara 2.500cc,V6 one.So what is left to worry about ,is the CV shafts.Now about how easy is it to break CV's,a more experienced member could help you more,but as far as I know,they break easily especially if stress the truck more than needed to overcome an obstacle.It also depends on the driving skills of the driver I believe.A friend of mine yesterday tried to overcome a difficult for a stock sidekick obstacle (he just has 1.5" susp.lift -OME) and he broke the passenger's side CV shaft and the same side casing mount (the 3 bolt one).I believe that he stressed it too much though.I also know that the passenger's side CV shaft is not as strong as the driver's side one.If you are going to get a steel 3rd member I think it will be better to go for a steel casing too.I dont know how strong are the XL-7 cv's......

I busted 2 of the 3 bolts out of the passenger side mount in reverse. I moved the housing back into its position and did the pinion mount mod Mike did. I have been out wheeling twice since then with no problem,even with only 1 bolt holding the passengerside mount  .. I didnt have any spares at the time so I went on wheelin.
Later,
Bill

with one bolt holding the 3-bolt mount   ....
I m starting to think that the cracking of the passenger's side casing mount and maybe the cracking of the 3rd member at the middle has something to do with how strong is the 3rd member mount on the crossmember. :-/

i'm running 34in swampers and my front end is stock and i have never broke a CV.  But i think mud isnt as hard on parts as rocks are so...

Stu

Mud is where I broke mine.  I think Mike said it earlyer.  Going slow through stuff like rocks, off camber... puts an even stress on your parts.

But, going balls out through a mud hole, then having a tirer hook up and getting a all that torque hammered onto the CV's.  They just won't hold up.

Mud is where I broke mine.  I think Mike said it earlyer.  Going slow through stuff like rocks, off camber... puts an even stress on your parts.

But, going balls out through a mud hole, then having a tirer hook up and getting a all that torque hammered onto the CV's.  They just won't hold up.

SO I GUESS WHAT I'VE LEARNED FROM THIS IS THAT YOU DONT WANT TO PURPOSELY BE SPINNING THE TIRES WHEN YOUR GONNA COME INTO CONTACT WITH A VERY GRIPPING SURFACE....SOUNDS EASY BUT I KNOW BETTER....BUT SERIOUSLY YOU CAN HELP YOUR LITTLE ZUKE OUT WITH A LITTLE CARRESS   AT TIMES  AYE !

 If anyone's interested, I have become fairly axle creative lately. I am humoring the idea of making a stronger diff housing/mount setup for the ifs zukis using heavily modified sammy pieces. If you are interested, let me know.

I would be interested, its somethin different. So let me know what you are thinkin and what the expected costs might be

Jacob

i put the 2.5 v6 steel front axle and 3rd member on my truck after i got through nine front axles.
i have also fitted front and rear lsd's and the traction is awesome.
i have two friends running lockrites in the rear. one has a steel axle and the other an aluminium axle. the one running the steel axle pops driveshafts and the other blows the diff casings with tremendous ease..

still nine axles for me was enough
also dave jones (k9rdj) also fitted a steel front end after doing nine front axles ... neither of us have had any problems since ...

hope this helps