drawing continue....

i finish of piece together the puzzle, so add coils spacer, move forward the ball joint, draw strut spacer with offset, kick the strut front and draw news a-arms will now a children's play.

I dream of having a frame clean like this...

Great work and detail. Really impressive so far. Did you salvage that Trackick from the bottom of the ocean? 

I am going to slot the strut holes to correct for camber angles.  But it is interesting that shaving the strut spacer 5 degrees should correct the camber.  (I will have to see if my friend has his milling machine working.)

I thought you were referring to correction needed by moving ball joint 1.5 inches forward.  I see that AE has angled their strut spacers to correct for their strut modifications.

I just ran clearance tests with 33x12.5x15's on (no springs) and at bump stops I am just hitting the front of wheel well (bottom of headlight housing) at full turn.  An 1.25" on ball joint move might prevent this and still clear the back of wheel well/floor pan.  I am modifying the bottom of headlight housing & wheel well liner.

It is amazing what you can do with your CAD program.  My brain was running one direction when you were referring to something different.

the project advance well... i have build my diff drop bracket and installed,i have receive rear drive line spacer . i built my front pan support and my bracket for strut and knockle,  i have receive all the stuff for a-arms tommorow and for strut spacer. picture comming

here some pics of the works did...
the right a-arms try

my cross section with weld nut for future body pan


diff drop bracket


coil spacer...

strut/knocle bracket

the a-arms assembled (i have to angled some flat bar for cv clearance

braced idler arm


all coils and it spacer

finaly my tires freshly studed

On your idler bracket, the weak spot is the idler pin usually bends.  I built a brace to go on the bottom of the idler and welded it to the A arm support.

This will prevent the idler pin from bending, because it is attached on both top and bottom.

On your idler bracket, the weak spot is the idler pin usually bends.  I built a brace to go on the bottom of the idler and welded it to the A arm support.

This will prevent the idler pin from bending, because it is attached on both top and bottom.

thank for the comment. i will do this modification when i part off the body for painting

This week, i finish the frame and suspension i also put the cab on, for body lift fab ( i must  rebuilt half of  body mount).  I remove everything that was in the cab and i start cut rust from the floor. I cut side rockers.... sorry not cut just touch it and they go away .
In my case 2x4 tube for rock slider was not just a option but is a obligation. I cut the speed shifter and the tc shifter and i threaded the part was left in the mecanic after i weld a nut on a sleeve that i weld on the other part of shifter so my shifter can be unscrew to be not cumbersome for cab fix. So here some pictures of the final height of truck and rusty work be left

That rust is just amazingly BAD!!!  You have a lot of work ahead.

with that much rust, I would seriously consider trying to find a less rusted body to start with.  Make sure you use some type of rust converter.  after each weld I would use a spray galv coating and after it dries, use a good primer.  on my vehicle I used red oxide primer and eastwood frame coating. after that I used a truck bed liner on all my frame, underbody and even inside the panels in the vehicle.  they make a coating from eastwood that has a tube you can seal the inside of the frame.  it isnt cheap, but at least use something to spray inside the frame. even rustoleum would be ok. just make sure u seal every weld.  but really use the galv spray or a zinc primer.  I weld for a living and wouldnt ever use just a regular primer for the welds.  they will eventually rust if not sealed good.