Today i received my rear shocks, monroe sensatrac 37117. i found a sheet from monroe that i have add some detail. My body is outside and i'm ready to start take dimensions

link for big size http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1549/monroeshockschart12.jpg

IIRC those are the same rear shocks I got with the AE 4.5" lift kit,,,blew one shock within the first 100 miles

IIRC those are the same rear shocks I got with the AE 4.5" lift kit,,,blew one shock within the first 100 miles

Is the rear realy lift of 4.5" with shock 3.75 longer than stock ?

you have been maybe just unlucky, these shocks are normaly of a acceteble quality

sorry, got my #'s all mixed up, I didnt remember correctly, LOL,

The shocks on the 4.5" kit are 37199, they are stock on rav4's,,compressed length 14.375", extended length 24.25",

Lookin' good. Keep the pics coming.  I'm very interested in the CAD stuff.

thank for you interest. I'm now busy with my rusty frame, i remove the fuel tank and the rear diff
i cut every thing was damage, and now it's time for rebuilt i got a 1/8 plate that i cut some paper craft of the frame
tonight i plan to start weld in place. next coming...




my part

This is looking good, not counting the rust.  While you have everything exposed, and because it looks like you are replacing your trailing arms, you might consider making a 4 link rear suspension.  You are already replacing half of it and still have to alter the upper 3rd link if you are raising it.
Also, check your body mount supports, my front ones started to collapse and I don't have the rust you are showing.  I just plated the sides after straightening them.
Nice work.

What are your plans for chassis covering? I would seriously consider investing in some Chassis-Saver to protect the frame from future corrosion.

yes BDR HNTR, when i see your projet i'm interested to did the 4 links. But i want be lowrider with my mod on my truck because laws in quebec are strict on frame weld. So i will just put spacer between diff and 3 link suport like AE kits, for the front, your are right, i already cut and bend my plate for bracing the front, i also put a tube inside the front tube (picture soon)

for the frame, it's sure when i will all clean. I want paint, and or protect with i don't know what , i need some tips.

..pictures of my hd build. i continue tomorrow grind (i have to flip the frame 90 deg for weld under .)

At least it is easy to flip over and weld, instead of welding overhead.
Yes the local laws on what you can do to your vehicle does stifle a creative mind (if you are aware of them).

That is amazing work you are doing.  But I think you should have taken a vacation out here to the west coast and got another Tracker.  We are scrapping them out without rust.  (Like I should talk, I spend weeks going over wiring diagrams, and more weeks actually merging them together to have something only I can understand how it is working.)
It looks good, and I enjoy following it, but Wow it is rusty.  I do like your coil spacer idea, thanks for sharing.

Today i lift  my rear , i placed my shocks, my coils and his spacers, and my 3rd link spacer. I ordered my rods ends for my new rear link.
I'm off for 2 weeks for chrismas and the new year to get some energy to attack the front for next year. here some plan of my 3rd spacer
and my diff/driving spacer.



diff spacer bigger :http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2863/36005329.jpg




drive shaft spacer : bigger: http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/2355/part8t.jpg

the rear lift

comming soon

today i removed all the front ( half of the bolts were broken, but this is my life..) let's start drawing.  Personaly im not a mechanic and not a welder so i did what i'm the best , drawing. For the front, the less complicated for me is draw every thing  stock, and after study all on cad. i just finish a stock a arms.

FYI
I just moved my ball joint forward 1 1/2", and out 3/4".  It will now clear 33" tires with OME XLT springs (I also have a V6 sitting on them).  I am still putting back together.  When I moved the ball joint forward the tires started to toe out significantly, wasn't sure if I would have enough adjustment to get them back straight, so moved the ball joint out 3.4".  I had a stub shaft made so I can run drivers side CV's on both sides now, and that requires widening because of the stub shaft.