it sounds like its time to agree to disagree.  


and you probably want your thread back.

LOL, yep that probably is best, LOL

I only take this position because I have spent 8 years campaigning a mcpherson strut equipped Honda in AutoX competition.


BTW, the reason for the bs requirement for Calmini's a-arms is clearance with the rim and arm when turning.

Well, that was fun wasn't it.  And yes, I agree with talonxracer that there is some camber adjustment and caster adjustment built into the strut spacers but, I just felt like maybe they could have done more.  I slotted my struts as much as I can and barely have room to get the proper camber but that could be what they were going for.  Having driven it, I think that they did something right and they know what they are doing.  But, I do have to say that I have mounted two different sets of rims on my sidekick since installing the lift and there is no noticeable change in camber between the two but personal experience can present differences in opinions.

Sorry I don't have more pictures yet.  Slow internet connection.  Also, I've been working like a fool trying to get ready for its maiden voyage on a trip from Edmonton AB to Colorado Springs.  Almost there.  I just have a transmission leak that is starting to get on my nerves.  Three speed automatic and I have fluid coming out of the plug connection on the left side of the transmission and some coming out of the seal around the gear selector shaft.  Any ideas???

I did modify the spacer blocks to attain even more camber, I simply bevelled the upper inner corner that hits the strut body, this allowed for alot more camber adjustment, I will snag a pic or two tonight when it cools off to an acceptable temp to do any work. When the temps hit above 90-95 degrees I start hibernating down in the cellar, LOL.

I just have a transmission leak that is starting to get on my nerves.  Three speed automatic and I have fluid coming out of the plug connection on the left side of the transmission and some coming out of the seal around the gear selector shaft.  Any ideas???

Mine was leaking at the mod valve seal too, I used Lucas trans stop leak, worked like a charm. Just be sure it's low enough 1st, so you don't overfill the ATF & cause frothing. I used a hose & a squeeze bottle to draw about 1/2 quart of fluid out the fill tube.

Also from What i was told by Geoff at altered, is that as the springs settle in, the camber adjustment range will be alot better as the chassis lowers and the strut goes more negative, I was told to expect 1-1.5" drop as the spring settles.

The 4.5" lift kit has been for sale for over 7 years now.

I have a question, I had to cut out the stock lower arms in several pieces and had failed to take a length measurment of the stock arm/link, do you have a measurement for the length of the stock arm handy?

If I remember correctly, I measured 18 3/8" but I will get back to you.  I am running my new links at 19 1/4" in order to get the drive shaft far enough into the transfer case.  My upper link is quite short.  I just used an angle finder on the  transfercase output and then on the pinion flange and matched the angle.   Not quite sure I have it into the transfercase enough.  I have the shield flush with the end of the snout on the case.  It seems ok and I have no vibrations.  Not quite sure if it is in enough. 

Someone had given me 18 1/4" so that is what I went by and set the lower links to 19.5". I had set the upper link to the spec in the directions, I think that needs to be changed though seeing I lengthened the lowers. 

I just re-measured 3 of the 4 links that were intact.   I got 18 7/16 which may be a little too accurate for a tape measure and rubber bushings but they were all about the same.  Between 18 3/8 and 18 1/2. 

I finally got to the highway yesterday and took it for some distance driving.  The ride on the highway was a bit stiff but I think that the springs in this one still need a little breaking in.  The Sunrunner we put the lift in rides like a caddy but Rudy is kinda 3/4 ton truck like.  Strange how the two could be so different but the sunrunner has had the lift in for about 3 weeks longer. 

Just to remind you, I put the 5.13 diffs in it and with 235's it revs like a banshee just to keep up on the highway.  About 4500 RPM at ~ 105 km/hr.  I am going to have to find some bigger tires.  Pretty peppy around town though.

Cool, I had the lower links set at 19.5", but while setting the pinion angle i didnt want to set the upper link fully threaded in, so I lengthened the lower links a bit more, they are around 20" now.

Well, the plan was to take the sidekick down to the States with Muskeg Tracker on a long trip but there were a few bugs that I could not work out.  After my highway drive, I realized that there was a drive line vibration that appeared when I floated the throttle and decelerated.  The rear differential got smoking hot too.  Not knowing what it was, I started with the simplest thing and tried dialing in the pinion angle more precisely.  No matter what combination of lengths I tired, I could not get rid of the vibration.  I tried a spare driveshaft.  I shortened the lower links to 19 1/8" to get the slip yolk into the t-case further. 

To test for vibration, I put the axle stands and put it in drive. (making sure I had a straight shot if it by some freak chance it slipped of of the stands and jack).  At about 60 km/hr the vibration would appear and not go away.  I then removed the lift springs.  Installed the stock springs and re-adjusted the pinion angle for the lower height.  Stuck it in drive and no vibration. 

As a last ditch effort, I called Geoff and he told me to lengthen my upper link.  Tip the pinion back so it almost points at the t-case.  He said I know this is against the recommendation for u-joints but they have had luck with it.  He also said that they have had problems with using 235's and 5.13's and the 3 speed automatic.  The harmonics of everything causes resonance within the driveline.   I was out of time and therefore had no more time to adjust the pinion angle again after messing with it for 2 days. 

Talon, you may have problems with your lower links being so long.  The slip yolk may be too far out.  If the pinion gets tipped back, then that would lengthen out your upper link anyways.  Hopefully you don't have the woes I've had.  Approx 1/10 lifts Geoff has done have had these rogue vibrations and it has been everything from pinion angles to wheel balancing. 

Sorry for not posting pics yet.

Sorry to hear you are having issues. I have only taken a few short jaunts and have not had any balance issues, YET!, LOL


The upper link is close to to being bottomed out(maybe a 1/4" left) and I just took a few minutes to remeasure the lower links and they are a little under 19.5", I could swear i measured 20" the other day!

I took the Kick for a spin and found no vibrations up to 55mph indicated(didnt go any faster), other than needing a alignment because of the toe out, it drives nice and smoothly.

Congrats guys sounds like the install was a breeze.  But I think we need some PICS!  I'll bet I'm not the only one who wants to see 'em