*Adding stuff back in that was lost*

Drive-train:
Engine: 1.6L 8v - 85hp, 89lb
Transmission - GM TH180/3L30 - 2.40, 1.47, 1:1
Transfer Case - Stock - 1.8:1, 1:1
Transfer Care - Modified - 4.24, 1:1

Stock Axle and Tires:
Front Diff - Aluminum - 4.30:1
Rear Diff - Steel - 4.30:1
Tire - 205/75/15 - 27x8x15

Notes:
AC, Power Steering
Timing belt, front main seal and Water Pump replaced

Planned Axle and Tires:
Front Diff - Steel + ARB - 5.12:1
Rear Diff - Steel + Mini-Spool - 5.12:1 - Swapped to 12 Bolt Rear End
Tire - 33x12.5x15 Pro-Comp Xterrain

Stage 1:
Remove Front Bumper Cover
Remove Rear Bumper Cover
Strut Tower Brace
Steering Idler Arm Brace
Lower A-Arm Mount Brace
A-Arm Modification/Wheelbase Extension and Widening
Factory Front and Transfer Case Skid Plates
Stub-Shaft Replacement, Drivers Side CV Conversion
Front Fender Trimming and Mounting
Front Fender-Well Trimming
Adjust Steering Bumpstops
Install Updated Differentials
Rear 4-Door Springs and 3/4” Spacer Installation extended bumpstops
Ford Explorer Front Spring and 1” Strut Spacer Install extended bumpstops
Skid Plates

Needed for Stage 1:
Strut Tower Braces
Idler Arm Brace
Lower A-Arm Mount Brace
Longer Ball Joint bolts for A-Arm Extension
Modified A-Arm
26 Spline Stub Shaft
26 Spline Front Jack Shaft
Drivers Side CV Shaft
4-door Rear Springs
3/4” Spring Spacer
1” Strut Spacer
Ford Explorer Front Springs
Skid Plates

Stage 2:
CB Radio
Power Points
Fire Extinguisher
Rocker Panel Replacement

Needed for Stage 2:
CB Radio
Power Points
Fire Extinguisher + Mount
2x4 Steel for Rocker Panel Replacement

Stage 3:
Driving Lights
Front Bumper + Winch
Rear Bumper
2” Exhaust
Roll Cage
Removable Doors

Needed for Stage 3:
Aftermarket Lights and Wiring
1.5x0.120 DOM Tubing for Bumpers
2” Exhaust and Muffler
1.5x0.120 DOM for Roll Cage Design
Hitch pins for quick door removal

Day 1:

Pulled the front A-Arms off, CV’s, and the hubs apart.  Had to cut one bolt out that needs replacement.  Pulled front bumper cover.

Next step is to modify the front a-arms with 1 1/2” forward and 3/4” wider to use same-side CV shafts.

Cool build ideas, I am interested to see how you go about bracing the strut towers.

Cool build ideas, I am interested to see how you go about bracing the strut towers.

We will be bracing them the same way we did with Project Trouble.  They have held up without an issue in the Zukiworld Challenge races, so it should be good enough for a normal vehicle.  One thing to keep in mind, if you use strut spacers then depending on the length you on may have to put on longer bump stops so your not landing on your strut towers.  In those cases all of the weight of your rig will be placed on the towers instead of just the weight of the valving.

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/project-trouble/msg227825/#msg227825

Day 2:

Built the strut tower brace, idler arm brace and lower a arm brace.  Modified drivers side a-arm and found we slide it 1.5” back instead of 1.5” forward.  Put the stock a-arm on the passenger side and did some more measurements.  Tomorrow we will fix the drivers side a-arm and try to get the passenger side done before leaving early for the day for the Superbowl and Seattle boat show.

33” tires have been mounted, fit fine in the rear but will need some help in the front.

Going to trade winches with Dad.  He has more room for the Superwinch and I have more room for a separate solenoid pack.

Day 3:

Fixed the from a-arm enough for a test.  The 33’s just rub the top of the fender, a 1” lift and bup stop drop will give enough room to clear the top of the fenders without trimming.  With the 33” tires from Dad’s rig, with less offset, the tire hits the behind the headlights and the inner fenderwell in the back.  With the larger backspacing from my SJ’s wheels there is rubbing on the front and rear of the fender.

We are going to do some fender trimming to help clear the tires.  The back of the fender will have 2” of trimming to bring it even with the back of the fender well, the front of the fender will be stretched up to the corner and underneath the headlights will be trimmed up to the fender line.  Front grill will be trimmed up to match.

For the rear, Stage 2 will include modifying the rear link and sliding the axle back an inch to better center the tires in the rear wheel well.

Stage One Additions:
1” Front Bump Stop Drop
Front Fender Trimming - 2” rear, extended front

Stage Two Additions:
Extend rear wheelbase 1”
Modify Third Link

Removable doors moved from Stage 2 to Stage 3

Additional Items Needed:
Longer Ball Joint bolts for A-Arm extension

Sounds great , needs more pictures     

Another detailed build thread, I like it.


So who gets to drive this one first and do donuts? Take videos this time. 

No donuts!  Well, maybe some.  And it will be me. 

Pictures are on a camera up north.  I will try to get them online this weekend.

Some pictures prior to Day 4 and 5 of the build:

Modifying the A-Arm:



And the current clearance on the front fender:

Some before and after shots of the rear and tire size:

And the new bracing with a touch of paint tossed on that we had left over from BRD HNTR's roll cage:

Day 4:

Did some more work on the front end.  Trimmed up the front of the fender well to allow the tires to turn when at full bump stop.  Some rear hammering was needed as well.  As always the second side looks much better then the first because you know exactly what you are doing.  The 2nd A-arm was finished as well and will be put on today.

Need to look into the steering as something is causing it to bind up and stop before it hits the steering stops, need to find out what that is and adjust the steering stops accordingly.  I may end up reducing the steering a touch in order to avoid rubbing on the front of the fender when at full stop.

For Day 5 I hope to get the rear diff swapped out with the SJ and the front diff pulled and prepared to have the IFS support tab welded on.  Bolt up both a-arms and verify that the fender well clearances will work so we can weld everything back up and plan for the fender alterations.

Day 5:

Not as much done as I would have liked.  Both A-arms are now in place and it was found that at full turn we can hit the frame.  So the steering stops were adjusted to make sure that there would be enough clearance to avoid rubbing.  We think the binding found on Day 4 was either the frame issue or a jack that was in the wrong place.

When performing the gear swap for the rear end it was found that the Tracker had ABS, but the SJ's rear diff did not.  So a carrier swap is taking place to avoid ABS warning lights, even if it takes a bit longer it was decided that we would do things the right way.

Next weekend the front diff will be pulled out of the SJ and prepared for installation.  In order to finish Stage 1 we still need drivers side DV and front axle shaft.  Then it should be down to fender trimming and testing things out.

*Updated the list to move the rocker panels to Stage 3*