Because I put in the body lift, I needed to lengthen the steering shaft.  So I also did that and fit it in, but IT HITS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD!    The flange on the inner side of the upper u-joint(in the left of the picture below) is the culprit.  I'm gonna try to fit a more compact u-joint in its place...

I am using the exhaust manifold out of a 2003 2.7, the CATs are smaller diameter.  I purchased another motor with a knock in bottom end, but had parts I needed.  Exhaust was smaller and gave me the extra clearance, so I figured I could sacrifice the possible hp loss.  I should have mentioned earlier, but like you focused on what I am doing to make things fit.  

The two large connections that are coming off the main engine harness that goes to inside car, do they connect to go across to the combination meter?  I have been trying to find them on wiring diagram, but cannot find connectors with the pin grouping (2003 FSM).  


There are a lot of wires that would go across (like in your photo).  I will be wrapping my wiring back across the engine compartment and going back in through the 93 wiring hole on left side.

Short answer: No.

They go everywhere.  To the transmission controller, to the ECM, to the Combination meter, some go to ground or to fuses, others to the BCM,  really it's a mess.  I actually don't remember exactly where they all go, but probably most of the places I've listed above.

With the 100+ hours I've spent with the schematics and wires I've gotten a little familiar with them.  Here's a collage of pics from the FSM for the 2006...They might be a little blurry, but I hope they will give you an idea of where to look.

Thanks.  I had found the C52-E59, but could not find the other plug E215-C85.  The 2003 manual stops at C72 and has E214 & E216, but not E215, so without a plug number I was lost.  My electronic FSM does not show the plugs pins, so it is impossible to follow wiring diagram.  It looks like I am going to peel back the wraps on engine harness a little ways to see where the junctions go.  Then I will now which wires need to go to ECM E61 and which will go to combination meter.  I will check on electronic FSM for the E215 to see where the wires break off to.

thanks for your time and continue having fun.  (At least you have heard yours run.)

Nice Build.  I'm not sure I would have got rid of the BCM in your electronic debauchery but if you think it'll simplify things...  I like the rest of your mods though.  I have plans to do some custom fabrication of my own.  We should talk some time.  Maybe swap Ideas.

The Zuke

Nice Build.  I'm not sure I would have got rid of the BCM in your electronic debauchery but if you think it'll simplify things...  I like the rest of your mods though.  I have plans to do some custom fabrication of my own.  We should talk some time.  Maybe swap Ideas.

The Zuke

Hehe,

Thanks Bro!

Here's a couple shots of the gauge cluster:





And a little video of it running:

bennz9 - MOV03033-2.flv

Do you have any pictures of the cluster after you put the dash in place?

Do you have any pictures of the cluster after you put the dash in place?

I haven't put the dash in yet...

Hopefully this week.  I will still need to fabricate a bezel, or shroud for the cluster to finish the dash off.  Any suggestions?
I might try steel, or fiberglass, dunno.

Short video, but awesome sounds.  The combination meter is great also.
Are you running the TCM w/o a BCM?
Have you made a jump over diagram for your wiring?  Or, are you just taking one component at a time?
Very nice work.

Short video, but awesome sounds.  The combination meter is great also.
Are you running the TCM w/o a BCM?
Have you made a jump over diagram for your wiring?  Or, are you just taking one component at a time?
Very nice work.

Um, I'm going to try to...  The wiring was (still is) a complex nightmare of over 100 hours.  I used the XL-7 wiring mostly, and connected them at first by running all the power wires to the fuses (Tracker stock fuse boxs - in dash and under hood) and relays (XL-7) , and then moving onto the ecm, tcm, 4x controller and combo meter.  I have some issues with the BCM being gone, and hope to work them out.  If not I might have to put it in.  The problem is I don't have much space under the dash anymore.  Any place there was a clearing I've already filled it with a computer. 

Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM.   
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller.  Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio.  (Pics later).  So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control.  I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in.  I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor.  It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take.  Any suggestions?  Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either!  Any electronics gurus that can help?

I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember.  That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit.  Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.


Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard.  It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!

Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM.   
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller.  Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio.  (Pics later).  So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control.  I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in.  I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor.  It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take.  Any suggestions?  Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either!  Any electronics gurus that can help?

I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember.  That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit.  Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.


Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard.  It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!

What were the symptoms that required the BCM?  STILL HOPING THAT I DON'T NEED TO FIND ONE OF THOSE TOO.
Doesn't the pressure feedback turn off the pump?  (Not looking at my FSM or notes, just fuzzy brain)  I thought that grounding the signal from the pressure (meaning up to pressure) cleared the pump not running signal.

I have been waiting to hear that you had yours running.  I have been working on the Drone's race Tracker for the last month, so my Tracker hasn't had any progress.

Quote from: muskegtracker on April 05, 2010, 10:08:24 AM

Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM.   
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller.  Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio.  (Pics later).  So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control.  I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in.  I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor.  It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take.  Any suggestions?  Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either!  Any electronics gurus that can help?

I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember.  That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit.  Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.


Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard.  It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!

What were the symptoms that required the BCM?  STILL HOPING THAT I DON'T NEED TO FIND ONE OF THOSE TOO.
Doesn't the pressure feedback turn off the pump?  (Not looking at my FSM or notes, just fuzzy brain)  I thought that grounding the signal from the pressure (meaning up to pressure) cleared the pump not running signal.

I have been waiting to hear that you had yours running.  I have been working on the Drone's race Tracker for the last month, so my Tracker hasn't had any progress.

Yeah, it's been a little busy for me too.  I've wanted to get a legit video of it running, but so much going on!  Soon...
The reason I needed the BCM was for the instrument cluster.  Without it all of the idiot lights where flashing.  There are some communication signals from the TCM to ECM, ECM to BCM, BCM to TCM, and instrument cluster to that mess that if any of the modules aren't there the lights flash stating that there is a problem some where.  If you're using the stock tracker cluster I don't think it will be a problem...at least not a visual one.  I know that the TCM checks the comm line between it and the BCM, but I don't know if there are any negative effects from the BCM not being there at all (from the TCM perspective).

For the fuel pump, I connected the fuel pump wire from the ecm to the relay and relay to the fuel pump.  Done!  It runs and seems like there is no other issues with it.

For the 4WD air pump, you could always run it deadheaded  .  
   

If you take the pump assembly from the XL7 and pressure up it up to 28 psi, the pressure switch should close.  Measure the resistance from red wire to pink wire, giving resistance through motor and parallel resistor (I will need to know that resistance also).  Put that size resistor in between E51-1-9 AND E51-2-10, with a ground on the E51-2-10 side.  That should signal that the pump is up to pressure (therefore running).

Thanks, that does give me an idea...however I do not have the air pump.  It's a direct electric motor.  But you may have something there with using a resistor AND ground...