do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup?

Where did you put your Evap. Canister?  Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner.  I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box.  With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.

I am selling some of the parts I didn't use.  I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...

Definitely!  We purchased an 89 Chevy Blazer K5 (fullsize) for like 1000 bucks a few years ago that was just messed up on the driver's side and had 75k miles on it.  Swapped the entire 5.7L TBI engine, 700R4 trans, and NP208 transfer case into our 79 K5 to replace the carb'ed 350, the TH400, and 205 t-case, which had over 90k miles on it.  Ended up parting out the rest of the 89 for close to $1000. 
Unfortunately, we just sold that beautiful '79 after 27 years of family ownership lots of memories but it just sat in front of our house and got dirty (and expensive to maintain!!!)
My Tracker is more practical for hunting and trails, too 

I am selling some of the parts I didn't use.  I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...

If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...

I bought my motor/trans/xc for $800, have spent at least $500 more on parts (wife thinks more like $1000) that were hard and rare to come by, still having to improvise on wiring connectors to Transmission control Module.  Can't cross parts on many years on newer models.  I could go on about building using a newer 2004 & up with parts, and not having parts to sell (just trying to find the ones to buy).  I just passed up a complete 2002 GV w/2.7 for $1250 (would have had to change everything out because computers/wiring & connectors are not same).
So yes That is a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...

And thanks for the helpful information.

do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup?

Yes.

Where did you put your Evap. Canister?  Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner.  I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box.  With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.

I didn't use the evap can.  I think that might explain why it rev's a little high on cold startup.  To be honest, I didn't care about that stuff - we don't have emissions test here, and there seems to be no other ill effects from not having it.  It seems to me that the original design in the XL-7 had some black box (which I figure was the evap can - never looked it up in the FSM - just guessed) between the frame-rails, behind the T-case, that had some large tubes running from the tank to it.  I assumed that was the evap canister, and I didn't have room, neither did I care to install MORE stuff than I absolutely had to.

An update on driving it...awesome!  That about sums it up.  I took it on a 4 hour highway drive (the cruise made it very nice too) to a Suzuki meet.  We all went wheeling, and I had no problems keeping up with the bigger tire'd guys.  I guess power makes up for tire size?  We went through deep water holes (over the tail lights), through crazy mud, and hill climbs in 8" of new snow.  It was a riot.  I'll get some pictures up in the next while.  The guys loved the sound of it (me too ).  One guy even called it the Maserati due to it's distinctive exhaust tone when I was on the gas.

Quote from: zuk_freak on May 27, 2010, 05:19:49 PM

do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup?

Yes.

Quote from: BRD HNTR on May 27, 2010, 11:25:04 PM

Where did you put your Evap. Canister?  Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner.  I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box.  With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.

I didn't use the evap can.  I think that might explain why it rev's a little high on cold startup.  To be honest, I didn't care about that stuff - we don't have emissions test here, and there seems to be no other ill effects from not having it.  It seems to me that the original design in the XL-7 had some black box (which I figure was the evap can - never looked it up in the FSM - just guessed) between the frame-rails, behind the T-case, that had some large tubes running from the tank to it.  I assumed that was the evap canister, and I didn't have room, neither did I care to install MORE stuff than I absolutely had to.

An update on driving it...awesome!  That about sums it up.  I took it on a 4 hour highway drive (the cruise made it very nice too) to a Suzuki meet.  We all went wheeling, and I had no problems keeping up with the bigger tire'd guys.  I guess power makes up for tire size?  We went through deep water holes (over the tail lights), through crazy mud, and hill climbs in 8" of new snow.  It was a riot.  I'll get some pictures up in the next while.  The guys loved the sound of it (me too ).  One guy even called it the Maserati due to it's distinctive exhaust tone when I was on the gas.

Good news on the evap canister.  I see that they had one with a vacuum pump, and one w/o, so I was going to try making it run on older style.  If I do not need one that is better yet.
On your trans shifter, did you slide it back?  On the one I have the cable is about a foot long, causing it to coil up almost against the bottom of exhaust manifold.
Where did you put the IAT probe?  Inside the appendage on MAF?
I have been working on wiring One Page at aTime. 

Hearing how fine yours is helps (so does getting one page of wiring correct).

Good news on the evap canister.  I see that they had one with a vacuum pump, and one w/o, so I was going to try making it run on older style.  If I do not need one that is better yet.
On your trans shifter, did you slide it back?  On the one I have the cable is about a foot long, causing it to coil up almost against the bottom of exhaust manifold.
Where did you put the IAT probe?  Inside the appendage on MAF?
I have been working on wiring One Page at aTime. 

Hearing how fine yours is helps (so does getting one page of wiring correct).

I thought the cable was too long too.  So I pulled a shifter cable from an 89 tracker and was trying to figure out how to adapt it when my brother said, "you should compare the length with the XL-7 cable."  It turns out the XL-7 cable is only like 0.5" longer.  So I bolted in the XL-7 shifter with cable attached and then got underneath and pushed the cable so it looped up the back of the engine and down to the mounting bracket.  Fit is good.

I "installed" the IAT probe with zip-ties close to the air filter.  A great temporary solution, in my opinion.

Just a thought:

When I wired it, I focused on one component at a time.  So I started with the ECM, connected all the wires that I could, then onto the TCM, BCM, etc, etc.  That way once the ECM was wired to the TCM, BCM, etc, and I moved on to the TCM, I could double check that the wire running from the TCM was connected properly to the ECM...does that make sense?  Just my method.  What ever works best for you.  Most people have a different logical thought process.   I remember that I was jumping around a lot from one page to another.  Whatever works right?  I do feel for you though.  Not having all the wiring and connectors would make it extra difficult.

Nice build!

Hay muskegtracker I seen your sidekick with the camo paint on the hood, it was in the princess auto parking lot in Edmonton on the 26 of may, it was right by the front doors. I like the camo  , did you paint it on there?
 

Nice build!

Hay muskegtracker I seen your sidekick with the camo paint on the hood, it was in the princess auto parking lot in Edmonton on the 26 of may, it was right by the front doors. I like the camo  , did you paint it on there?
 

Thanks!  Yes I did paint it...  It's a small world, but no real surprise that you caught me at Princess.  I'm there more often than I'd like to admit. 

I am still doing wiring, but it does sound sweet (without exhaust).
Now that it does run, I have been working on the Error Codes.  I was getting three from the lack of Vacuum Canister.  My solution was resisters in the electrical connector going to the vacuum canister.  If you still have these codes in on yours, the pins look like this on the connector going to the canister.
X4321
X76X5

I used 48 ohm resisters between 4 & 3, and 1 & 5.   A 48K ohm resister between 7 & 6.  Then I taped a cap off a relay over the Connector and will route it out of the way.  This removed the Barimetric code (set it at sea level) and one for the vacuum valve, and one for the vent motor.

What did you end up doing for the dash?

I am still doing wiring, but it does sound sweet (without exhaust).
Now that it does run, I have been working on the Error Codes.  I was getting three from the lack of Vacuum Canister.  My solution was resisters in the electrical connector going to the vacuum canister.  If you still have these codes in on yours, the pins look like this on the connector going to the canister.
X4321
X76X5

I used 48 ohm resisters between 4 & 3, and 1 & 5.   A 48K ohm resister between 7 & 6.  Then I taped a cap off a relay over the Connector and will route it out of the way.  This removed the Barimetric code (set it at sea level) and one for the vacuum valve, and one for the vent motor.

What did you end up doing for the dash?

Excellent!
It has been running great so I haven't worried too much about clearing the codes, but now that I know I'll do it.  Thanks a lot!

I have been lazy, and since it is running I've been putting miles on it instead of finishing the last details, such as the "codes" and the gauge cluster.  I've got the gauges mounted in the dash, but have yet to make a shroud/bezel/surround for it.  I worked on one out of light gauge aluminum, but didn't like how it turned out.  I have thought about fiberglass and also vacuum forming.  I do have some plastic lying around and a vacuum forming box, so it is a possible solution too.

It will take a little experimenting with the barometric one as you are not a sea level.  It seems that it also compares manifold pressure with barometric pressure, as mine threw a code that basically says that the pressures are different.  As I haven't had mine on the road, I do not know what will follow for differences.
I got a OBD2 to PC USB out of China for $25 to check and clear the codes.  Kris got it functioning for me, and it seems to work pretty good.  You can get most of engine vitals, trends, etc.

This is an interesting project. Have used an hour now to read all pages. Sounds like an advanced engine swap to me.   Just one question... cruise control in the terrain  

Good job  

Kind regards from

Hannes in sweden

Thanks for the tips BRD HNTR.  Always appreciated.

This is an interesting project. Have used an hour now to read all pages. Sounds like an advanced engine swap to me.   Just one question... cruise control in the terrain  

Good job  

Kind regards from

Hannes in sweden

Thanks Hannes.  You have a great project too.  The cruise control is wonderful on the way TO the trails.  With all of the new found power its easy to speed. 

This thread has been bumped back to the 4th page...no good!  I've put over 10,000 miles on the V6 "without a hitch" and still loving it.  Some big spring plans.  I've got a box of goodies coming in the mail to add to the Tracker.  I'll just say it's from Low Range......Check back soon!