I want to lift my Grand Vitara without spending alot of dough to fit 31" tires.  I walked around the junk yard and did some research online and here is some info I found. I have looked at body lift kits from different sources, and most of them just use 2 x 2 sq steel tubing with holes in both sides to make a body lift, with a steering extension.  T

That is not worth the $500 alot of them charge.  I will likely make my own.  I found at Princess Auto there are the rollers for boat trailers that are a hard rubber, I may use slices of one of those to make thin bushings where steel meets steel.  They may last, they may not, but for $6, I can't go wrong.   I have a large bumper that I am going to be using on the front of the Vitara, so the relocation brackets many shops supply won't work anyway and are just 2 pcs of 1/4" flat bar welded together and drilled anyway.  I want something heavier since this will be an off road bumper with a 9000Lb Warn and Tow points.

For the front, those of you looking for longer springs, the front strut springs from a 98 Toyota 4Runner have the right spring rate, are 2" longer and should fit easily giving 2" of lift.  I haven't actually tried to fit them on yet, but they look right and the only problem I see is that they may have to small of an inner diameter, but I will post on that later. There are 2 other issues I might encounter- the requirement of camber bolts to correct the front angles on the struts and strut extensions (spacers).   If I get to much lift from the springs, I may fab some diff drop brackets to lower the pumpkin maybe 1" at most since I want to keep the center line clearance. I will update on that as well when I get to it.  I should not need to since the Toy springs should only lift the Vitara 2". 


Now I have looked for the materials I need to do the lift, but am waiting for funds to come in to purchase the parts.  I am going to put in a homemade strut spacers in the front using the Chevy 3 bolt 2 3/4" exhaust flanges with tubing welded in between.  These will likely be 1" or 1 1/2" long since I want to keep the up travel in the suspension, but really the longer springs only replace spring spacers.  I may break down and get the OME struts from Low Range Off Road Instead.  Easier but more costly, they will allow the suspension to travel much further.  They sell longer springs, but for 3x the price of used from the wreckers.

Jeep rear or front coils from whichever of them has coils- either Grand or cherokee or TJ- have coils that will fit and lift the rear of my GV.  They are in different lengths, and I may need to trim them down to fit.  I will let you know what vehicle I get them from eventually, but their rates are right for the Vitara and they have the length.  If I trim them, that will raise the rate of the springs, but I will be adding weight to the Vitara in Bumpers and full size spare tire anyway.  The front springs will likely have a higher rate since that is where the vehicle generally has more wieght all the time, so I will likely get them from the rear of whichever donor jeep I use. I will be using Rancho shocks for the rear that I have on my old Toyota truck that are still good, the only issue is that they may require an adapter to fit around the axle tube.  Cheap long shocks can be bought for under $60 anyway.

The rear is 4-linked, and that should not require modification, but if it should, I may cut and weld the control arms with a 2" drop.  The eye to eye length will be the same and the suspension will cycle in the factory plain, but will have 2" of lift with the springs and drop arms.

Something like this...                                        0______________
                                                                                    VVVVV____
                                                                                            VVVVVV______O

I'll keep you posted, but I hope to do the body and suspension lifts for under $400.  I am not certain how to post pics of what I am doing, but maybe someone can tell me how.  I want other DIY guys to see what I am doing so they can savemoney and do the same.

Im guessing you are working on a 99+ Vitara. I had thought about using the header flanges and building my strut spacers on my 01 Grand Vitara, but the strut mounts are different on the Vitara than the TracKicks. I ended up going with one of Jeffs (jeff1997) 2" suspension kits, it not only came with strut spacers but also comes with extensions for the strut brace to keep it from hitting the intake on the engine. It was one of the best made spacer kits i have installed. I topped it off with a rocky road 2" bodylift it came with steering extension and brake line extensions, but idid not like the way it was made so i cut my steering shaft and welded in a piece of 5/8 round stock to get it to the length it needed to be. I ended up making my own brackets to lift the bumpers. But for both lifts and new rear shocks i had around $350 in them and enough room to clear 245/75 r16 (31") buckshots with no trimming. Here are a few picks of the strut spacers that come in one of jeffs kits.

Thanks for the post TNTracker.  I just read somewhere that I can flip the strut bearing and get about 1 1/2" lift from that on the strut, so I will likely try that before making strut spacers.  I am talking about a 99 Grand Vitara, and it is slightly different from the Track/Kicks out there, but I do alot of research at the Wrecking yard before I start even pulling my rig apart.  I only want to do it once.  So far I found the 4runner spring for $45 each and jeep springs in GOOD condition for $50 each.  So, costwise, my suspension lift may end up being $200.

TNTracker--What is it like dealing with Rocky Road?  I have read ALOT of bad reviews of their kits and customer service. I am sure others on the forum would like your input.

I have also seen a lot of bad reviews on them about slow to ship and poor customer service, and the body lift for the Vitara is the only thing i have ever bought from them, and the only reason was they were the only ones i could find that made a body lift for the Vitara which ended up looking like the same as ones for trackers i had ordered in the past from other vendors. I had it in about a week after ordering and it seemed to be made fairly well, with the exception of the steering extension i ordered with the body lift. It was nothing but 2  bolts and 2 small pieces of threaded tubing to use as sleeves between the steering joint. Did not appear very safe to me. Let me know what fits and not, i my end up with another Vitara someday. Good luck with the build

TNTracker- Thanks for the Luck. I had some today, I went to Canadian Tire and looked at Shocks from a 91 Cavalier (2.2L).  I read somewhere online that they would fit the GV, and the info was correct.  They are 2-3" longer and feel a bit stiffer (I looked at stock ones for the GV in Store also--they took no effort to push in where the Cav shocks took a bit more effort).
For $25 each I don't think I can go wrong. The shock body itself is only 1 to 1 1/2" longer but the thread at the top of the shock is a full 3" longer to the end.  Perfect for a 2 to 2.5" lift. 
Keep you posted.

So, more research, and I found that the 2 3/4" exhaust flanges won't work on the Vitara.  I will be making spacers of my own out of threaded couplers welded together with pieces of pipe in between to tie them together.  I will be using square tubing for the spacers to lift the strut stiffener in the engine bay.    According to information I have calculated, the toyota springs are a 700 Lb rate where the Grand Vitara springs are 500.  They are 1.5" longer, and under normal vehicle load should compress about 1.4" to the standard 2" so with 1.5" longer spring and .5" less compression, works out to 2" lift.  But may end up being a VERY stiff ride.  I may build coil spacers if this doesn't work out.  Since the springs are so strong, I will mod for more down travel and set up the strut 2.5 or even 3" lowered than stock.  I think the CV's will handle the angle, and under fulll droop, there is less load on the dropped wheel anyway. 

FOr the rear, I found front coil springs from a 2WD cherokee at the wrecker, they are 17" long and have a soft rate, but after trimming, they will be at 170Lb/inch and 3" longer than stock.  So 3" lift in the back.  It was sagging lower anyway. They have a larger diameter, but I think they fit OK anyway. Give more travel and better ride since they are slightly softer, but more overall load capability since they are longer.

On a side note, spring compressors don't work worth crap to get the longer coils in place. They are to bulky and the rods on them are to long.  I have a 9000Lb winch where I will run the cable through the center of the spring, winch it down short, and use 5/16" cable with clamps to tie it in place. That compresses the springs to the desired height, then getting them in place will be EASY.  Then cut the cables after the rest of the suspension is back together. Way easier and I think safer than the coil compressors. If you have a press, you could follow the same procedure.  You could use small chain also with a nut and bolt.  Just be real carefull when you cut the cable, make sure there is weight on the spring first!

To be continued...

If you disconnect your sway bar, strut, steering linkage, and support for brake line (just remove the C clip and move line so it can drop) you will be supprised at how much longer spring you can squeeze in there.  If you lower your strut mounts 3", better think about dropping the front diff also or the CV's will not last long.  Also as you push the A arm down, the lower spring pad mounts start pointing outwards which cause the spring to arch outwards.  The brake caliper is mounted close to the spring and occasionally when flexing the front the spring and caliper are trying to occupy the same space.  No problem as the caliper can slide a little outward, pushing the brake fluid up into the reservoir.  Next time you get on the brakes the won't work on first stroke.
Grand Vit front springs give a nice ride on 2 door Trackers.  OME raised GV springs will take you close to the end of your struts, with 2" strut spacers.

I am only dropping the strut mounts 2" afterall--for just the same reason you stated BRD HUNTER.  I am not sure I understand what you mean by the spring pressing against the caliper and squeezing brake fluid into the reservoir.  I would really like you to explain that one further.  And I did detach the strut and sway bar, but the new spring is so much longer and the compressor itself so big that they just do not fit very well into the space available.  Thus my press/compressor idea, and yes I plan to be VERY careful when the springs are compressed.  I know there is alot of energy there.  I may end up putting a small chain on the spring as a saftey precaution in addition to the cables (2 per spring) and anchor the chain so the spring cannot go anywhere.  My safety is my highest priority.

I hope you can see the pics, its my first time posting online, but I am building my own strut drop brackets out of 5" steel pipe cut into 3 sections, and welded to 1/2" threaded couplers that are almost 2" long. I am using the strut bearing itself as a jig to hold the threaded couplers exactly the right distance apart, and using 1/2" bolts for strength. I thought about just welding it directly to the strut bearing plate, but then if it needed to ever be replaced, I would have to weld a new one, so this way it is more serviceable.  I will then be using 2 x 2 sq tube to space my strut brace bracket back up to factory height. 

All told, my cost for the steel and welding and couplers is $45, plus the longer springs from a wrecker for $100, and new rear Cavalier shocks for $50.  Total cost for the suspension lift will end up being $200.   If the longer springs don't work, then I will make some spacers and go back to the factory front springs, but with the bumper I am going to be putting on with a warn 9000Lb winch, I will end up needing the extra spring rate I think.  I will soon see what the ride feels like.  Likely by the weekend.

I am only dropping the strut mounts 2" afterall--for just the same reason you stated BRD HUNTER.  I am not sure I understand what you mean by the spring pressing against the caliper and squeezing brake fluid into the reservoir.  I would really like you to explain that one further.  And I did detach the strut and sway bar, but the new spring is so much longer and the compressor itself so big that they just do not fit very well into the space available.  Thus my press/compressor idea, and yes I plan to be VERY careful when the springs are compressed.  I know there is alot of energy there.  I may end up putting a small chain on the spring as a saftey precaution in addition to the cables (2 per spring) and anchor the chain so the spring cannot go anywhere.  My safety is my highest priority.

I hope you can see the pics, its my first time posting online, but I am building my own strut drop brackets out of 5" steel pipe cut into 3 sections, and welded to 1/2" threaded couplers that are almost 2" long. I am using the strut bearing itself as a jig to hold the threaded couplers exactly the right distance apart, and using 1/2" bolts for strength. I thought about just welding it directly to the strut bearing plate, but then if it needed to ever be replaced, I would have to weld a new one, so this way it is more serviceable.  I will then be using 2 x 2 sq tube to space my strut brace bracket back up to factory height. 

All told, my cost for the steel and welding and couplers is $45, plus the longer springs from a wrecker for $100, and new rear Cavalier shocks for $50.  Total cost for the suspension lift will end up being $200.   If the longer springs don't work, then I will make some spacers and go back to the factory front springs, but with the bumper I am going to be putting on with a warn 9000Lb winch, I will end up needing the extra spring rate I think.  I will soon see what the ride feels like.  Likely by the weekend.

This is what my front springs looked like (4 door springs with 2" spacer on 2 door).

When you compress the spring even more, the bow becomes worse and you can bump against the brake calipers, forcing fluid back up into reservoir with no brakes for first stroke.
You may not have this problem, but if it happens, knowing what causes it will make the rest of ride more enjoyable.  I modified my arms so springs set more upright with the longer springs.

It looks like I went through same process you seem to be.  My build link http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/15/.  I am sitting at 14.5" to bottom of frame on 9.50X30X15's.

Not to be a jerk, but my lift kit is less than $200 and it would save you guys a LOT of hassle. Just my .02.

Not to be a jerk, but my lift kit is less than $200 and it would save you guys a LOT of hassle. Just my .02.

I was thinking the same thing I sell my kit which comes with 4 billet aluminum coil spacers 2 billet aluminum strut bar spacers, 2 strut spacers, pan hard bar relocation bracket and a proportioning valve arm extension, all metal parts are powder coated comes with all hardware and installation instructions, for $400CDN

Not to be a jerk, but my lift kit is less than $200 and it would save you guys a LOT of hassle. Just my .02.

Jeff's lift is the best out there for the money!

  You are too sweet. He's right though!!!

how bad is the camber with your lift unadjusted?

Not to be a jerk, but my lift kit is less than $200 and it would save you guys a LOT of hassle. Just my .02.

I use you spacers, and have a set in the rear.  I wanted more lift than your 2" provided for the front, so started with 4 door springs.  While your spacers do lift a vehicle, I think that ultimately longer springs provide a better ride.  I like working to make my Tracker better, so do not mind experimenting.  You are right, for less than $200 your spacers get one off the ground with a lot less hassle.  I did not need to buy my first set of longer springs, and the rest of my work was my shop time.  I support your spacers for those just wanting up, and enjoy sharing with those wanting to experiment.  If you notice in those photo's there seems to be a bright red spring spacers from jeff1997.