I suggest that you don't use a standard hocky puck. It's the wrong material for the on/off-road environment. The rubber will break down and you will need to replace it. Had a friend do this on a late model GM truck. Within 6 months, he had to replace them. He then went with a 2" body lift from a manufacturer.
The hardware is pretty basic. It's what the lift affects which you must be aware of. By adding a body lift, you are separating the body from it's frame mounts. You will need to make sure the 'spacer' has enough surface on both sides to work properly in it's location. You will also need to address the point which the body is not attached to the frame, but rests on it. Then you need to be concerned with anything that is between the body and the frame, ie. wiring, brake lines, parking brake cables, shifters, hoses (gas, engine, ac, etc.), steering shafts, etc. You will also need to be concerned about the items which are attached to the body and the engine, ie. air cleaner, ps tank, etc.
Most to all this is common sense, but atleast you have to be aware of it. Once you are done, you'll need to check the functions of the car before road testing. Check brakes, steering, shifters (boots tend to get in the way so a large hole may be necessary), gas tank fill line, etc.
As for DIY, I'm looking forward to warmer weather to add a 1-2" body lift for a Sami to my XL-7.
