Thx. I am going to keep it manual for now. Tis project has opened too many mini projects so I am trying to focus in on just getting her drivable again!

Shortly after first getting her started. Still plenty left to do in thi video

Sami

That's pretty cool, it would be interesting to know what the performance of the coil on plug setup is compared to a stock setup.  How hard was it to setup the programming with the COP and 4 injectors compared to a throttle body setup?

Man that is one noisy fuel pump

That's pretty cool, it would be interesting to know what the performance of the coil on plug setup is compared to a stock setup.  How hard was it to setup the programming with the COP and 4 injectors compared to a throttle body setup?

Probably quite a bit tougher. Considering someone rewiring a factory wiring harness for only $300. MS1 is $200 to build yourself. Premade harness $80, you need a BIP373 for each of these chrysler 300 2 wire coils.. Like $15 each. The COPs themselves. Then a way to get timimg input to MS such as the 32-1 missing tooth on the crank and VR sensor... Gotta built a custom bracket. Could prob use the factoy crank and cam sensors on son versions of the 16v.

Think that sums it up!

Man that is one noisy fuel pump

Ya dont mount it to that super convinent spot on the underside of the sami body! I have relocated it.

Quote from: wildgoody on September 14, 2011, 12:16:49 AM

Man that is one noisy fuel pump

Ya dont mount it to that super convinent spot on the underside of the sami body! I have relocated it.

On Project Trouble the fuel pump is rather noisy as well.  We made it a bit quieter by placing a rubber spacer under it and the body.  It's still noisy, but a lot better then it was.

Good point about the computer wiring.  We have done the wiring bit several times, wasn't sure which was more effective. 

Samurai with 16v Megasquirt n spark MS1v3.

Here is an updated video.  Nothing super special but this is running with the stock 16v dizzy instead of the COP setup.  Still some tuning to do.

Cheers!

Are you monitoring via an ODBC II port or using Megasquirt software?

Are you monitoring via an ODBC II port or using Megasquirt software?

megasquirt

Hey folks, figured I would throw an update out.

I have learned a lot with this project along the way.  After 3 different input setups on the same engine, I have decided on the reliability of a hall sensor and crank mounted 36-1 sprocket (as opposed to a 36-1 and VR sensor, or using the internally mounted hall in the 96 dizzy).

So here is my overall setup and my recomended method of setting up the 96 16v at a glance.  This is also an alternative to a $300 harness mod/swap if your wanting further tuning:

MS1 nS park v3 board ($200)(+pre-made wiring harness $75?)(DIYAUTOTUNE)
   Ignition Setup: : WHEEL DECODER
   Trigger Input: : HALL SENSOR; crank mounted hall sensor with 36-1 wheel ($75?)(DIYAUTOTUNE)
       3 wires: Red-12v switched key-on & fused; white/black to same colors in the sheilded pair to MS.
   Spark Ouput: SINGLE SPARK; This is a 2-wire setup: 12v switched key-on & fused to internal coil (positive), Pin 36 from MS to coil (negative). Note: I used the factory pigtail to the dizzy, I just removed all the but far right 2 wires (see FSM for wire colors, also view my video for a close up).  The other wires that are not needed are for the interal hall sensor and tach out (if i remember right).  You may want to look into this tach wire.  I did not need it with my aftermarket Eqquis guage.


So this sounds fairly simple right?  Other major considerations will be:
  Extra fuse panel for giving 12v to: INJ1/INJ2 bank, fuel pump, megasquirt, Hall, coil
    I re-used the Tracker main distribution block, then added a 6 fuse sub box.
  Custom fab a Hall sensor bracket to the block.
  Mount sprocket to crank (drill/tap holes or weld)
  I really suggest a Wideband 02 sensor ($200)

This does not cover an install step by step.  This is just the stuff I got hung up on.  You can always PM me if you have a question.
 
http://www.youtube.com/zuki1018fire

This is a very interesting project, and looks like it may have possible use for a 1.6 modified with a turbo setup. It could provide for a better fuel delivery curve. Thanks for all the great info. 

This is a very interesting project, and looks like it may have possible use for a 1.6 modified with a turbo setup. It could provide for a better fuel delivery curve. Thanks for all the great info. 

My thoughts exactly.  Initially I decided to go MS since I had the MS1 box already built from a project years ago.  I wanted to put my $300 re-wire money to better use.  Not to say I have not went over $300 but you can do this with a moderate to light budget if your already planning to motor swap.  What is snazzy is MS only needs TPS, 02, Water, and IAT for inputs.

Here is the next phase of this build although I am not in a hurry to bolt on this T2 turbo.  I am not spending $250+ for someone else to make a log manifold out of butt fittings.


These are called butt weld, or weld ell fittings in shedule 40.  Find them at a pump / industrial / plumbing company (my welding supplier has some also).  90 degree bends were like $5-6 and the T's about $12-13.  These are 1-1/4" in size.  I did buy a 45 and 90 in 1-1/2 inch to give me options for my turbo mount or downpipe.




A bit of 3/8 steel (i think its 3" wide... just measure your gasket).  I think 3/8 will be fine for thickness although some have suggested 1/2" for a turbo.  I found as many 1/2" suggestions as 1/4" though.  One can always add a support brace to the turbo.

3" Calmini springs



3" Calmini plus SPOA and relocated lower shock mounts.  I need to add some shock hoops to raise the tops of my front shocks. Theres only about 2" of front axle upward travel... which is fine with Calmini leafs btw lol... they dont really move at all to speak of!

This is as high as I wish to go. Any higher and the front driveshaft will probably hit the xfer case crossmember.