Sweet ride!  Why didn't you bring it to zukmeld? 
Where is the picture taken where you're on the rocks? Drayton valley?  Some good wheeling around there?  Id come down sometime...

Sweet ride!  Why didn't you bring it to zukmeld?  
Where is the picture taken where you're on the rocks? Drayton valley?  Some good wheeling around there?  Id come down sometime...

I was wanting to, but the brakes on it are shot, so it's not the best for in the mountains  , hoping to have it ready for zukmeld next spring.

And you're close on where the picture was taken (Lindale) 20 minutes east of Drayton, not to much wheeling around here, Just some quad trails (a zuk can fit down most of them) and around the farm, but we could  meet up some time to go wheeling for a  day  , I'm a hour and a half west of Edmonton .

A little up date, rear end went yesterday (driveshaft turns but the tires don't move).

Front or rear, or both?  Might be bad hubs.

Its the rear diff, pretty sure it's the R&P or the spider gears because it clunks pretty bad when you give it gas in 2WD. The good news is I might have some Toyota diffs lined up, so hopefully I can get them and have 'em all fixed up and under the sj by next spring

Got the diff apart to day, the teeth on the side gears are shredded off, could have been caused by  the bits of broken welds in it.

Side gears are easy to replace, or put in a mini spool.  how is the R&P?
There is still time left this year to wheel, but not much way up there.

The  R&P look fine, inside of the carrier is a little chewed up from the broken welds but it should work fine if I put in new side gears, at least till I get some yota's fixed up, I'll see if I can find some side gears.

There was a skiff of snow this morning, but  as far as wheeling left this year I can go till there's about a foot or so of snow, it gets cold but now I have a good floor and soft top, last winter I went out with no roof, doors, or passenger side floor, I had great visibility but it was a bit cold  .

Thinking of a ARB locker in the front yota diff, do you guys think it's worth the extra $$ for a ARB?

I have had one up front for a couple years, and am now running them on both ends. They are awesome, but the tubing IS NOT heat tolerant.  You need to be extremely careful where and how you run it.  I have converted the front to 1/8 tubing because you can buy it in most parts stores, finding 5mm plastic hose is a PITA and a lot of shops handling ARB do not have extra hose.  I may run 1/8 copper tubing to both ends to eliminate all the heat issues.

You mean the air line that would go from the diff to the air compressor? From the frame down to the axle would have to be flexable right, Would rubber or braded steel brake lines work to from the diff up to the frame, (or is the heat not a problem on this part of the line?) and then the copper tubing to the air compressor?

Thanks BRD HNTR,

  If you feel like going for a drive I have a few SJ diffs that would have the parts to fix your diff up until you put the yota diffs in.
   John                                                                                                                         

 If you feel like going for a drive I have a few SJ diffs that would have the parts to fix your diff up until you put the yota diffs in.
   John                                                                                                                          

Thanks John, I might be able to get some side gears from a guy here in Drayton valley, but if I can't I'll let you know for sure.

They make a braided line to go for the flexible part, or you can use the 5mm poly line with a wire coil on the end (to stiffen so it is less likely to break), or the 1/8 nylon line like I do.  Steel lines like to rust so it is not advisable.  Larger braided lines take more volume, so you want to keep the lines small.
My front diff doesn't (or shouldn't) move.  My motor compartment is full, so it is hard finding routes for the plastic line that doesn't go past something that gets hot.  I melted one line off on the tranny when the cooling line kinked.
Knowing how easy it melts helps when installing it.  I was using (supposedly) an air pump from a lincoln (seats? or lift system?), they do not take much volume, air pressure needs to be between 70 & 105 psi.

Ok thanks for all the info BRD HNTR, I think I'll try and hook up a copper line to go along the frame and use the line it comes with to go to the diff. I have a 5 gallon air tank that I was going to hook up to the ARB heavy duty compressor, so that should take care of the air for the locker and to fill up tires and run air tools. I also have to get any tools I might need for setting up the R&P gears, it'll be my first time setting up gears or rebuilding diffs so any advice would be great.

I do not remember where I saw the write up on rebuilding/regearing a diff.  Possibly ACK's.  I used the FSM (also on ACK's).  Pay special attention and keep side bearings & caps together and marked for which side.  When adjusting the side bearings for for backlash or preload, always stop when tightening.  If you have overtightened overloosen then turn the diff a couple turns and retighten (stopping when tightening).
If you are replacing the bearings, they have to be pressed off and on, so might as well take it to the shop and have it all done right.  Just take the third member for a rebuild, the more they do the more they charge.