Have you driven with the rocker switches on  I have the same lights (only installed 1 set) from Wal-Mart. Where I located the light (near left knee), it can be distracting at night because it's so bright :'( I'm thinking of installing a different rocker that's just got a little LED or something.

Thanks guys.  It took awhile.
No relays, just used the wires included in the kit and shortened them as needed.  On my other trucks (my Chevy, dad's Super Duty, etc) I scrapped the kit's wiring and used all 12-gauge wire, since the trucks are much longer.  Less voltage drop...they light up bright.  But this is such a small car the kit's wires work just fine.  I haven't had much luck adding relays in the past, but that was years ago, I'm sure I could figure it out now with a little more experience.  I know a relay will give higher output to the lamps while drawing less power from the battery, but I just have to see how much power they even draw before I start looking into a bigger battery and upgraded alternator.  Stock is 55amp...not much but we'll see how it handles the lights and winch. 
The switches, they aren't as bright as you say, they're mostly a glow.  On the other hand, I used some of those switches, Jeremiah, in my 2003 Silverado, and they blind me at night (pictured below).  The one on the bottom is red, and glows just fine, but the three up top are a "fire" blue and are absolutely blinding.  Turn those on, and it's almost as much light as the dome light inside!!!

wow, that looks amazing!!       congrats on an excellent job!

Thanks.  I'm gonna "test fit" my skidplates today.  Probably remove them before I tow it to the shop for servicing, since they will have to drop them to flush my diffs and gearboxes.  But might as well test fit them now since not much else to do on it! 
BTW TT said my bumper was getting recoated yesterday, I should expect it next week? or so.  Then I can make my tow bar mounts to the frame

On the other hand, I used some of those switches, Jeremiah, in my 2003 Silverado, and they blind me at night (pictured below).

Good to know, since those were exactly the LED switches I had in mind. I think I'm getting a little blinded because of the location of the switch. Being down out of periferal vision (where you have yours) probably goes a long way to helping out. I'll look around and see if I can get mine off my dash, and do what you did - I like that clean install. Where'd you get the panel to mount the switches on

Well the red is just fine.  I installed a GREEN one in my dad's Super Duty Ford (since Ford gauges are green) and it isn't blinding bright.  Just the blue ones, for some odd reason.  Weird, but they definitely let you know when they are on!

I like that clean install. Where'd you get the panel to mount the switches on

Are you talking about the Tracker or the Silverado?  I used the Silverado panel and drilled holes.  I made the Tracker's panel out of stainless steel plate, and cut the rectangular holes

OOOH...flexy!

Haven't been on in awhile. Had to work and been busy getting stuff done around the house.  Not to mention the college raised fees (again) what surprise!!! (sarcasm) so I had to pay that BS too...
the Tracker's at a mechanic's shop right now.  He's changing my timing belt, water pump, and all my belts, hoses, and fluids.  I supplied all parts (from NAPA) and went with OEM spec. parts.  The guy is a family friend and is doing me a favor by letting me supply parts (vs. him purchasing and charging a mark-up).  Should be getting it back very soon. 
He's also looking into that center link for me...the alignment shop said it was "bad" and this mechanic said that they don't "go bad" on cars like this. 
He also said he'd check my head gasket since I told him I had a coolant leak on the front of the engine...thought it was my water pump gasket but he said the head gasket design has a water passage towards the front of the block?  I'll find out more this week. 
In another month or so, I'm going to be buying some rims for the 30" Goodyears.  Any suggestions?  I haven't gotten much feedback so far on the proper backspacing I should run.  Looking at a 15x8, 3.75" BS with the 30x9.50R15 on 3" Calmini lift.  Is that a good backspacing for all the clearance or should I go to 3.5" or 3" BS?  Or 15x7 would make a difference or not?
Finally: a "cosmetic" question on the black steel rims: soft 8's, or Daytona style?

Tough call on the wheels.  I like the Daytona's over the Soft 8's, as I'm not a huge fan of the circles in the wheel and prefer the spoke design. 

I started thinking about it and the Daytonas would look better. Soft 8's, anything with larger holes look better on larger vehicles (like my FS chevy, my K5, etc)...the smaller holes and smaller spokes of the Daytona look great on the Tracker...why should I change it???

Did you ever find out about the engine and front end from the second shop?

Engine was fine.  I bought all the parts (he let me, so he won't mark up the parts if he bought them) and he installed it all.  Both accessory belts, upper radiator hose and (2) lower hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, timing belt, and tensioner, water pump, flush coolant, change oil and filter, flush out gear oil in trans, t-case, front and rear diffs.  He said the timing belt was a good choice to replace it, it was worn.  And he said the front center link was tight as it needed to be.  I can't find any anywhere anyways, so I'm not worried about it.  I have no "play" as I cruise at speed, so what's the worry anyways...
Just have to put on my new valve cover gasket, and this week I am getting the tow bar mounts done.  I'll post pics of how that turns out when it's all done

Tow bar is supposed to be done tomorrow.  Today, I reinstalled all my skidplates (took them off for the mechanic) and re-torqued everything before I put them on.  I also solved this little problem:
When I installed the Calmini transfer case skid, I noticed the "Z" clamping bracket tightened all the way down, did not clamp the crossmember.  So it was floating:

In the two weeks it was on there, every once in awhile during a hard shift between 1 and 2, or taking off in first, I would hear a clunk, this was assumed to be the problem.  My dad's idea was to slip a piece of large rubber hose over the crossmember, and I put it off until I was reinstalling it today.  I had the right diameter hose sitting in my garage, cut off a few inches of it, and this is how it worked:

slit it down the middle...then slid over the crossmember...

and with the bracket tightened all the way, the skid does not "float" anymore, and I don't hear that clunk.  Plus it just seems more secure that way

And here's all of them installed:



I'm looking at all sorts of ideas people have had on strut tower braces.  I saw a lot of talk about ideas  when I used the search tool, but no pictures or actual product.  I like bentparts, I sent him a PM.  But I'm also wondering if it would be a complete waste of time for me.  Ipm not doing anything extreme, it's a basic trail vehicle, and it will be used occasionally for some mild rock stuff.  Nothing major, but just how much do the strut towers move?  Enough to worry me?

You will probably be ok without a strut tower brace.  But it doesn't hurt to put one on.  Plus it gives you something to do. 

Are those skid plate bolts the way they're designed by Calmini?  They look like they would get hung up very easily.