SWEET!!!  May I pick them up this next weekend Oct. 15th-17th? if so let me know what time is good I keep looking for you when I pass your place on my way to West Point but I keep going by at weird times when your at work or way late or early in the day.

what tweeters did you use to put in those vents of yours?

Its the MBQuart NAN216 component set.  I also have a Discus 10" sub and a 4 channel amp I have to put in.

By the way, I may have enough of that steel tube left over to do another set of seats.

TO DO A SET FOR ME? 

Yeah.  You'd have to provide the drill, drill bits, and cut-off saw.  I ruined my chop saw in the process.  I mean it works, I just burned the hell out of it lol.

This steel is no joke and is a pain to cut/drill through.

great I will let you know. when I go to provo I will check and see if I can find some cheap neon seats like you did.

If you can't find any down there, then Transwest up in Ogden has a bunch and I got mine for $30 I think.  I need to go back there anyways to get some more stuff maybe this weekend.

SWEET!!!  May I pick them up this next weekend Oct. 15th-17th? if so let me know what time is good I keep looking for you when I pass your place on my way to West Point but I keep going by at weird times when your at work or way late or early in the day.

Sounds good to me.  We're going to Black Island Farms Saturday but I may cruise up to Transwest beforehand.

So I ordered LED replacement bulbs for the front turn signals before looking at the housings.  

So, I just wasted $20.  Meh.  The bulbs are 1156 and the other one is a 60 something weird one.  Add to that, the housings pretty much fell apart when I took them off the grille.  Fail.

I replaced all of the lights in the cluster with LEDs and made a new acrylic gauge lens because the old one was crap.  I got a bunch of audio stuff coming too in so I'll be screwing with that here and there.  Right now the zuk is torn apart waiting for the alarm to come in (tomorrow).

I also messed with the radio housing to the point that I no longer want to even use it.  I may end up building one.  Idk.

Stuff coming in:

New radiator
MB Quart 10" Sub
MB Quart 4 channel amp
Alarm with remote start
Motion sensor for the alarm
power locks (yeah, power...)
LED turn signal housings
E-Spec headlights
Floor plugs

Next:

1.6 8v Swap (possibly boosted)
Clutch
CJ conversion
Diamond Plate rockers (already have em, just have to cut/modify)
Anything else I come across.

I'll post pics as I complete stuff.

NICE! Cant wait for pics. Can I come see it sometime to get ideas for mine? what bulbs did you get for the cluster? My cluster is so dim right now I can barely see it and the dimmer is all the way up. Im hoping to pick up the white guage faces soon myself.

You can come see it anytime. 

For the bulbs, I got the following (from superbrightleds.com):

WLED-x5 LED Wide Angle AMBER LED bulb (194) x 4 |removethispart|@ $2.99/ea (these are for the main illumination)

T1.5 Instrument LED bulb $1.79/ea in the following colors:   

   3 x Green (turn signal L/R and the 4WD indicator)
   5 x Red (battery, oil, seatbelt, sensor, and e-brake indicators)
   1 x Blue (high beam indicator)

Total about $35 shipped and worth every penny.  The rest of the lights on the zuk were about $60 I believe.  I didn't really pay attention.

I wouldn't do the white face gauges.  I thought about it for 2 weeks and read a bunch of comments about em.  They're stickers and there is too much room for error, plus, they light up weird.  My black ones are in great shape and look just fine.

thank you. youve convinced me not to get the guage faces now, I didnt know they were stickers bummer. Are you even going to want to wheel your sami after all this work or are you going to take it to shows and stuff like that?

LoL funny you should mention wheeling.  I do plan on wheeling it, moderately.  It was too nice to abuse to begin with.  I really want to buy another sammy and beat the hell out of it and keep my silver one as a DD that can play too.

Only problem is the other half won't let me  

Oh yeah and the gauges I was talking about are these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1988-Suzuki-Samurai-white-face-gauges-86-88-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem58866f65faQQitemZ380212569594QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Look at the pics, they light up horribly.  You'd have to paint the needles too, because ours are white.  White gauges belong in luxury cars imo.  I had em in my Tahoe for a while and went back to black.

lemme know how your radiator goes, im goin to need to upgrade mine sometime soon.  It all sounds pretty cool, look forward to seeing the pics.

as for Airman's 'are you going to want to wheel it?'  im in the same boat, i finally have mine where it looks(to me) half decent and the thought of crapping it up again gives me nightmares.  but, thats all part of the "fun" in goin off road right?

Ok so I HAVE been working on the zuk.  

Couple things I am working on:

I picked up a fuse/relay box from a 90's Rodeo, and I'm gonna make it work -





It's got six 5 pin 30A relay's and one 6 pin 40A relay, plus a bunch of fused outputs and two 80A fusible links.  I have already figured out all of the wiring and I am going to use 5 of the relays.  One for the starter (this means I can get rid of the "clicky starter fix" thing screwed to my firewall), 2 for the power door locks (currently they are fuel pump relays), and two for the headlights.  That leaves 2 more for future use.  There is also a diode and a wiper relay that I can use someday if I want to.

The box is small enough to mount on the passenger side, and it goes right up near the grommets that enter the cab, so the finished install will be clean and look factory.

I also bought a new battery with dual posts so I can run the main vehicle wiring off the side posts and add a power tap to the top post for the MB Quart AMP I just got.

I also got the power locks installed.  The biggest problem I ran into was the size of the actuators.  I had to mount them as far down in the door as possible, yet the window will still hit them.  The solution is that I put window stops in the door so that the window stops right before it hits the motor.  Its a trade off, but the window only stays up about 2 inches.







The locks just clamp to the existing lock rod.  It took a little adjusting, but it's all good now.  

I used factory Sidekick power mirror door harnesses so that I could disconnect the door locks when I remove my doors.  The plug is just the right size to fit in the door channel when it's shut.  The pic is kinda bad but you get the idea.