Before anyone comments , yes this is not a new idea and has been done before in various forms but newbies might not know of it so here goes:
1) Get yourself a complete Sammie 3rd.
2) Cut the bottom bearing oil drain cavity back from the flange end 105mm and cap the holes left. This is done to clear the Kick cross member.
3) Fab up some brackets. Mount the nugget in the banjo and bolt it in to your rig. Now tack the brackets in, then remove once aligned and weld them up.( Check out the pics for brackets ).
4) Swap all the Kick 3rd parts over ( a good time to fit a front locker now you have the steel nugget

). You can either buy the assembly with locker installed from Trail Tough ( my recommendation ) OR get the spacer and pin retaining kit and do the same as the Sammie boys when they fit 5.13 R&P's
NB: There is obviously some technical things I have not covered regarding the R&P swap etc but if you are not up to that task then think seriously about doing this modification yourself

Usefull info :
You can use all your original Kick bearings if they are in good condition.
Check backlash BEFORE you disassemble your Kick diff and then set up new assembly with THE SAME amount of backlash. Ring gear torque - 70 ftlbs . Cap torque - 70 ftlbs . To set up pinion bearing preload make sure bearings are oiled up and use a new crush sleeve, now tighten flange nut little by little until there is a small amount of resistance when you turn the flange from left to right Eg: Spin the flange to the left a few times and then on the final turn try to spin it back to the right - if the preload is comes right then there will suddenly be a small amount of resistance on the switch turn , when this happens preload is correct ( tap the nut into the pinion groove to secure ).
Hope you can understand my ramblings and happy wheeling

.