2.0L installation:
Bolted up to the stock transmission using a modified flywheel from Trail Tough. The stock clutch worked fine, but did heat up a little on the initial 40 miles when doing a lot of climbing in 1st gear, so a 4 door clutch at the least is recommended, probably a Centerforce. I stayed in high range the entire race.
Stock passenger side motor mount is used, but a mount coming from the motor was used. For the drivers side two custom mounts coming off the frame were made using bushings instead of the stock rubber block. They will not move. After making them we realized they should be on the same plane on the frame to allow the engine some more movement, but it was to late. For a dd we would design a bit differently.
Exhaust uses the stock pre-cat. This allows us to keep the stock electronics in place. We then go down to a flange with springs attached, a great way to keep your exhaust in one piece. I ripped 3 mounts off the muffler and smashed in a 3rd of it on something, with the old exhaust we broke two studs off the header. On this one, we just strapped the muffler back in place with some wire and went on our way.
The cooling system was an issue. Due to the water outlet going straight back we had to cut a hole in the firewall and do a 180, then bring the cooling line back above the exhaust and route it into the stock radiator. With a 2.0L Tracker rear outlet it is already coming out 90 degrees, and you could keep the lines inside the engine compartment. Without a heater our way worked just as well. And faster. The electric fan relay is wired to an AC over-ride that kicks on at 215 degrees. A bit hot but serviceable. We didn't need the fan as long as the car was running above 25, it air cooled nicely. Stock radiator and the fan is from an AC Tracker.
Computer wiring. This was done by BRD HNTR with experience gleaned from his V6 build. Everything runs into the stock Aerio computer, just on the passenger side instead of going in the drivers side. The engine does not run error code free, partially due to this being an automatic. If we were using a manual then many of the error codes would be gone. But we were able to monitor everything via the ODBC II connection, it all ran.
The dash is stock. The tach was connected to the computer and stock speedometer is used. The oil light should work, but the temp gauge did not. So BRD HNTR plumed in a new temp sensor, we wired the temp gauge directly to it and it works fine. It's not an exact gauge, but it works.
Serpentine belt, didn't work quite right. By default there is an AC pump and Power Steering box, neither of which we use. So we had to track down an AC bypass pulley to install where the power steering pump normally went. A custom bracket and it bolted up fine, but a bit to tight. Eric helped us find out that the reason for an idler pulley squealing was the belt was to tight. A 1" longer belt and she ran great, until the belt disintegrated 55 miles into the race. The stock belt went back on, stretched out and ran without issue for another 80+ miles. So chalk that up to a bad belt.
Air filter is an off the shelf K&N. It was coated with dust and then some by the time we stopped. Next time we need to build a housing for it and route it into the cab to help keep as much dust off as possible. Or at least run a pre-filter.
Hood pins. The hood is held on by pins, I thought they were left off at a pit stop, but thanks to my GoPro HD Camera I can watch one slowly back out and the second fly off when I hit a big bump. Then up comes the hood! So next time, locking hood pins.
Final thoughts: A lot of work, but she was wicked fast. A shame BRD HNTR didn't get a chance to drive it.
