Simply great..  This is a great post, the way it should be made...

great write up, thanks. The only reason I don't install a locker in the rear is its a daily driver and price. I've welded the front and would have loved to read this first. thanks again.

Thanks for the great info

now get back to work on the unimookie     jk   

Thanks for the great info

now get back to work on the unimookie     jk   

 

I felt bad putting that one pic up where you can see the Vitara gathering dust in the background.  I've been getting a few minutes in on it here and there but things keep getting in the way of me getting some good hours in on it.  Mostly it is just that summer is here and the lure of fresh air and sunshine keeps me out of the shop most of the time.  The whole reason I threw the spool in the back of my Samurai was so that I could hit a few trails this coming weekend 

well ok
 

Tip: I've heard of people using their hi-lift jacks as slide hammers.

What kind of locker did you install?

What kind of locker did you install?

Trail Tough mini-spool

I took a pic of it in the carrier, but it came out blurry so I didn't post it.  Not much to see anyway.

I tested it yesterday...got my samurai up on it's side in a ditch with both driver's side tires completely off the ground.  It worked as expected and I was able to drive out of the semi-flop

I am gonna be installing a lock right locker in the front, besides the drum brakes what is the difference if any from the rear to the front???

None really.  Just make sure you have the right lockright for your SJ-410.

Thanks for the info. I used the TrailTough mini spool in a 95 Geo Tracker rear. I did not have to remove the brake lines. The axles can be pulled by removing the top brake spring. Leave the hub in place; you don't have to remove the axle all the way out.

Very nice write up!

I'm gonna TP you for that. 

 +1 TP from me...

-Eric

awsome post thanks alot now im more confident in installing the mini spool im my sammy .. ill let u know how it goes,, again thanks..keep wheeling

Few things I do in this process.  I don't know if you touched up on it, but the caps that hold the bearing race and spanner nut need to be marked so you don't mix them up, along with the bearing races.

Something people overlook when putting these together, is that these diffs need load on the bearings.  To acheive this, I tighten the ring gear into the pinion until there is no backlash at all, then give that spanner about another 1/4 turn.  With no backlash, tighten the pinion side spanner until you get .004" - .006"  (suzuki spec is .008, but they tend to last longer with slightly less) backlash, tighten your caps down and make sure you can turn the pinion.  You gotta make sure you have consistent backlash throughout the rotation of the ring gear.